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LETTERS TO MY SISTER 

OF OUR EXPERIENCES 

ON 

OUR FIRST TRIP 

TO EUROPE 

1913 



On train, Buffalo. 
Aug. 18, 1913, 7.30 p.m. 

My dear May and Father: 

Dinner is over and we are enjoying the 
drawing room, having changed the section so 
as to get more air. It is so very warm. 

Had a nice meal of roast beef, hashed brown 
potatoes, beets, corn, ice cream (apple pie for 
Tom), and when we returned to our reservation 
I donned the new gown and slippers. It is a 
little treat to be able to sit and enjoy the 
breeze coming in. 

My little present given me at the depot was 
a five-dollar gold piece and two tens very nice. 
We have also enjoyed some of the candies. Ex- 
press our thanks to M. D . 

Will write again before we sail, and we hope 
to have your letters waiting for us. 



New York, Manretania. 
Aug. 20, 2.30 p.m. 

So far we are all right and quite in love with 
everything. At 1.10 this morning we sailed 
amid cheers of all kinds, waving of hands, hand- 
kerchiefs, and the Mauretania blew her whistle 
of departure until fully turned and proceeding 
on her voyage. It must have been 2 before we 
went to stateroom. Tom was so anxious to see 
what was to be seen that we remained on deck 
until almost all lights and illuminations from 
the tall buildings of New York and opposite 
shore were lost to view. 



On train, Buffalo. 
Aug. 18, 1913, 7.30 p.m. 

My dear May and Father : 

Dinner is over and we are enjoying the 
drawing room, having changed the section so 
as to get more air. It is so very warm. 

Had a nice meal of roast beef, hashed brown 
potatoes, beets, corn, ice cream (apple pie for 
Tom), and when we returned to our reservation 
I donned the new gown and slippers. It is a 
little treat to be able to sit and enjoy the 
breeze coming in. 

My little present given me at the depot was 
a five-dollar gold piece and two tens 1 very nice. 
We have also enjoyed some of the candies. Ex- 
press our thanks to M. D . 

Will write again before we sail, and we hope 
to have your letters waiting for us. 



New York, Manretania. 
Aug. 20, 2.30 p.m. 

So far we are all right and quite in love with 
everything. At 1.10 this morning we sailed 
amid cheers of all kinds, waving of hands, hand- 
kerchiefs, and the Mauretania blew her whistle 
of departure until fully turned and proceeding 
on her voyage. It must have been 2 before we 
went to stateroom. Tom was so anxious to see 
what was to be seen that we remained on deck 
until almost all lights and illuminations from 
the tall buildings of New York and opposite 
shore were lost to view. 



Our stateroom is on D deck, quite conven- 
ient to the dining saloon, and situated at mid- 
ship, and so also are our deck chairs in the 
front row on the promenade. We seem to have 
things just as we want them. Our table in the 
dining room is just for two. Tom wished it 
this way so as to avoid clashing with unpleasant 
company or American Jews who are traveling. 
The flowers, baskets of fruit (champagne) 
which have been sent aboard by friends for 
some of the passengers are very beautiful and 
tempting. 

We were up at 10.30, had breakfast at 11, 
enjoyed our deck chairs and a long walk 
until 1.30 p.m., when we went to lunch. 
I am rather afraid Tom will be ill from 
a big appetite if not from seasickness bacon, 
eggs, cereals, toast, plain bread, coffee and 
then soup, chicken, fried potatoes, tomatoes, 
sago pudding, ice cream and ''coffee" again 
isn't that some capacity? And now that we 
have our sea legs we can pass the time happily 
enough and thoroughly enjoy ourselves in bliss- 
ful idleness. 

The ladies are somewhat fussed in cream 
suits or nice summer dresses made of colored 
linens, crash, etc., stockings to match, pumps 
and light-colored coats. 

I have been wearing my black moire suit 
and the pretty white lace collar and jabot Mrs. 
Williams of Winnipeg had so kindly forwarded 
to the steamer with her best wishes for a plea- 
sant trip. Wasn't it good of her? And I was 
quite surprised on entering our stateroom after 
breakfast to find a pretty card and greeting 






from Sister Immaculate Heart a friend of the 
McOarron family. 

You would really never know you were sail- 
ing everything is so steady, and until you look 
out on the throbbing seascape could you be- 
lieve it. If I were on the Cayuga in this sea I 
would be down and out long ago. The sea caps 
have been with us all the way and some of the 
waves have come over deck. Our porthole, 
which is almost as large as your little kitchen 
window, had to be closed. From our experience 
we have found that the Toronto office of the 
Cunard Line is not familiar with the best loca- 
tion when booking passengers. While we are 
on the dining saloon deck one of the others, 
promenade B or A are more preferable. How- 
ever, the 'Cunard Line, unrivaled for its safety 
and magnificence, offers its patrons all the com- 
forts desirable. The cuisine is excellent and 
needs no commendation better than our hearty 
appetites. We have enjoyed all. The orchestra 
plays during meals and in the lounge in the 
evenings. 

Did Ollie get away yet? Hope he is feeling 
better. You might 'phone Mrs. Dandy and 
Mrs. Martin, or perhaps read this to them, and 
I will keep you posted of our doings, as it takes 
a great deal of time to write each one at any 
length. 

Be sure and write often to us. Heaps of love. 
Hope Puppins is all right. 



Friday, Aug. 23. 

Thursday was a very disastrous day for me ; 
in fact, ever since we left New York we faced 
a very strong wind from the East, and we en- 
countered the severest since March rather un- 
fortunate to start with. However, it has cleared 
to-day and I am feeling all right. I went to 
bed Wednesday at 9 and remained until Friday 
morning. I was not ill, but I couldn't sit up 
and feel comfortable, so the stewardess said if I 
felt better it would be just as well for me to 
lie down. But it didn 't bother Tom at all. He 
is an A 1 sailor, considering almost all on 
board were sick. He was able to put away his 
usual pile, promenade, and enjoy everything 
that was going. He is very busy in a game of 
deck quoits now, and he is enjoying it so much 
he is already speaking of coming again. 

To tell you something of the Mauretania, I 
might say the writing room and library is fur- 
nished with rosewood writing tables, chairs and 
couches, the latter upholstered in rose-colored 
velvet, curtains in rose with Dresden border. 
This is the style all through the steamer. 

The crew are all very attentive and they give 
the passengers the very best of care, seeing that 
all are comfortable with steamer rugs and feet 
raised off the floor when resting. 

Someone was telling Tom it takes 1,800 
pounds of bread a day to feed all, and five but- 
chers to carve the beef. 

So far I haven't met any of the passengers. 
There is one Toronto man on G. Perry. He 
used to skate at Victoria and I think was con- 



nee ted with the Canadian General at one time. 

On deck it is quite amusing to watch the dif- 
ferent styles worn. Mostly all the men wear 
cream flannel trousers and rubber-soled shoes 
The ladies are fitted up as if on the board walk 
at Atlantic City. 

In the furious storm blowing yesterday one 
of the lifeboats became unfastened, which 
meant the Mauretania had to stop her engines, 
change the course for some time in order to get 
it in place. 

There was a heavy rain Thursday night and 
this morning, and if you could see the moun- 
tainous waves the ship is ploughing through 
you wouldn't wonder she would be tossing. 
If I had been frightened I think I would have 
been real ill. I haven't been in the dining room 
since, had lunch served to me on deck, as did all 
the people who were ill. Remaining in bed 
helped to keep me well. The lady in the state- 
room next to us has been in bed ever since she 
came on. She is suffering from nervous shock 
from a motor accident in which her husband, 
Mr. Osgood Pell, was killed. Her maid is busy 
in attendance on her. A great many have maids 
and valets with them, while others keep the 
steward and stewardess busy. Ten minutes is 
allowed for bathing. 



Sunday, Aug. 25. 

We have just come from having lunch, and 
Tom certainly put away a goodly share. Since 
leaving New York he has been able to enjoy all 
his meals, and if he can relish them in the same 
quantity as he can take them it is some size. 
We have had almost all kinds of weather. 
While Saturday was a very beautiful day, it 
rained heavily at 7 p.m., and again Sunday 
morning, but since noon the sun has come out 
and the hazy atmosphere is clearing and all are 
enjoying the decks. 

We attended, with a great many others, the 
Seamen's Orphanage aid concert in the second 
class cabin last evening, which consisted prin- 
cipally of talent among the second class pas- 
sengers, and afterwards the musicale in the 
lounge, and did not go to bed until 12 or a little 
later. Perhaps to-day we are more fortunate 
than unfortunate as all on board are talking 
of the narrow escape at 3 a.m. The "Imper- 
ator," the new German liner, which is on its 
fourth trip, evidently lost something overboard 
and had lifeboats lowered just a half-mile off, 
which is considered very close at sea, at the 
speed these steamers travel. The Mauretania 
gave the signal that she would take the star- 
board, but on approaching found the Imper- 
ator standing, which meant the Mauretania 
gave one quick turn on her side to avoid any 
damage, and many passengers were tossed out 
of bed. Tom and I slept so soundly that we 
know nothing of it, and I think it was lucky 
for us we didn't. 

10 



There were two church services this morn- 
ing Catholic and Anglican and mostly all 
attended both no sermons, of course. Later 
on the chief steward accompanied us, with two 
other ladies and gentlemen, with an officer as 
rear guard, through the second and third class, 
even to the kitchen and pantries, which we 
found very interesting. It is really worth a 
trip in itself to see the equipment and service, 
but there is only one way to travel, and that 
is first class. 

In the kitchen we were introduced to the 
head chef, and we noticed everything is put 
through very officially. When an order is 
handed in by the waiter it has a time stamp, 
and when it is prepared it is stamped, so that 
there is no chance of losing time. All roasts, 
in fact, all cooking, is done by charcoal; 2,000 
knives cleaned daily by an electric machine, 
24 barrels of flour used each day in making 
buns, rolls, and bread. In a separate kitchen, 
where it is a little more pleasant, the cold 
meats, etc., are being decorated, for instance, 
when a cold ham is skinned it is done up 
fancy with beets, cucumber, etc. ; the same with 
jellied meats and chickens, and all look so 
nicely when served from the buffet in the first 
class dining saloon at luncheon. There is also 
d pastry kitchen, where fancy mixed cakes, 
such as macaroons, chocolate eclairs, etc., are 
made. Just recently the King and Queen vis- 
ited these parts, we were told, and sampled the 
sweet things. 

We also visited the regal suite, which is very 
superb. The fittings are beautiful. 
11 



I had a few pennies and distributed them 
among the children in the steerage as we passed, 
and the mothers thanked me in every case and 
were glad to get them. 

All amusements are closed for the day and 
the Sunday is very much observed as on land. 

It will be Tuesday 10 a.m. when we arrive 
in Liverpool, and I will be glad to have the sus- 
pense over with. 

There is a young man aboard who has been 
made immensely rich by bringing an old con- 
vict vessel across to New York which was 
raised from the sea at Australia. It is prob- 
ably 300 or 400 years old, and is called the 
"Success." 

There is a sailing vessel approaching us 
now, and Tom is anxious for me to see it, so will 
leave off until I write again. Really, from 
where I am sitting it doesn't look as big as 
some in the Toronto harbor. To me it seems 
awful to attempt this passage and it must take 
weeks to make the voyage. 

Hope you will keep well until we return. 



Monday, 3 p.m., Aug. 25, 1913. 

I have been addressing some postals and 
this will be my last note until we land. 

There is an old governess here beside me, 
traveling with a family of three little girls and 
two boys from Chili, S. America, and she has 
had the greatest time in showing one of them 
to write a little letter postal. She has enough 
12 






patience to carry her almost across the ocean. 
Mostly all the families who have children have 
a maid and governess. 

Sir Richard MeBride, of British Columbia, 
the member, is crossing, and while he is a very 
fine looking man, has a little resemblance of Sir 
Wilfrid Laurier. He spends a great deal of 
time with a little widow, made so by the Titanis 
disaster. 

We have met some very nice New Yorkers, 
and they play the games with Tom, and, need- 
leas to say, they always ask me to join in the 
treats. One is interested in the new theatre 
being built on Victoria or Yonge Streets, and I 
rather think he is a Jew, but immensely rich, 
and no one ever came to Shea's funnier than 
he. The other two are very large men and, as 
you know, Tom is no small mite, but the fourth 
is very small, and it is really funny to listen to 
him. He came aboard fully prepared to be ill, 
brought cushions and rugs, and he has sur- 
prised himself. This is his ninth crossing and 
the only one not to be sick, and Mr. Ludwig, 
who is on his 37th passage and was never sick 
before, was very ill on Thursday, and Mr. Fox 
was very bad too. 

We will soon be in sight of land, are nearing 
the coast of Ireland, and since 7 p.m. Sunday it 
has been considerably cooler. 

At lunch, one can order their dinner for the 
evening. I have ordered cream of tomato soup, 
chicken, roast lamb, mint sauce, tomatoes, 
celery, lettuce, corn on the cob, peas, pickled 
onions, rolls, ice cream, fruit and tea, and if I 
can get away with some of that I ought to hold 

13 



for a while. I much prefer the raw fruit and 
vegetables. I have had a good feed of corn so 
often, and I don't think Toronto or Canada 
ever produced any so good. 

Everyone is very busy writing. Mr. Wilcox, 
of Winnipeg, one of the T. Eaton Co. 's buyers, 
is on board, and he tells us only six of their men 
can travel on the one steamer since the Titanic. 

At luncheon the people come in as if dressed 
for the King Edward, in fancy suits, dresses 
and gloves, and while some look exceedingly 
nice there are some awful freaks. Every day 
you see someone you have not seen before. 



Monday, 9 p.m. 

This is the menu we had for our little 
dinner party. Doesn't it sound good? It cer- 
tainly tasted fine. 

We have enjoyed the glasses, and could 
bring the shore or coast of Ireland right close, 
and coTild see the smallest houses and how the 
land was laid out in cultivation. 

One hundred or more passengers are ready 
to disembark at Fishguard, and, of course, will 
have to remain up all night and then sit up 
again on the express until they reach London 
at 8 a.m. I am tired writing, having remem- 
bered all with a few lines. 



Tuesday, 3.30 p.m., Aug. 26. 

We are at last in blooming old England and 
are comfortably located in this beautiful new 
hotel, The Midland Adelphi, only six months in 
business, with two large additions being built, 
which will make it the largest in the whole 
island. I have just had an afternoon nap and 
feel fine, but still have a little motion of the 
boat. 

Landing at Pishguard or at least disembark- 
ing passengers at 2.10 a.m. for London greatly 
disturbed the peaceful slumber of a good many. 
Of course, it was optional, and as I did not feel 
sleepy, thought it might be worth remaining 
up. Packed our trunks and was on deck when 
the first 'tender a boat looking as large as 
the Chicora came to one side for baggage, and 
the trunks certainly got a great tumbling 
down two decks on the chute. The other 
boat, on the opposite side, received the mail, 
over 3,000 'bags, and, strange to say, the 
baggage and mail got preference over the 
people. At 3 a.m. we retired and were called 
at 7.30, expecting to land at Liverpool at 
10.30. For an hour or more before this we came 
into fog or haziness and the lighthouse boats 
were blowing all the time as a guidance for 
the mighty Mauretania, which is really a float- 
ing palace, and at 10 a.m. she was put in tow 
and at 10.10 the baggage and mails were soon 
sliding down the moving staircase to be hurried 
off to the post office. When the passengers 
were allowed off, at 10.40, all trunks, hand- 
bags, etc., were placed under your initial for 

16 



inspection. A splendid system, for one knows 
immediately just where to find the luggage, 
and as soon as an officer is available the ran- 
sacking commences and the passenger hears 
the verdict. However, the officer who attended 
us was good enough to take our word, and we 
did not even have to open our trunks at all. 

Soon we were in the bus, similar to those 
going to the King Edward, and went to the 
Midland Railway depot before going to the 
hotel. Even this large hotel was filled and we 
had to wait to have a room vacated. The Car- 
mania, which was due to sail that day, ac- 
counted for the rush of business. 

After getting settled I enquired at Cook's 
office in Lord Street for mail, but did not re- 
ceive any. Had a letter from Dollie, Jim and 
two of Elizabeth's from Berlin, G-ermany, on 
the steamer at Fishguard. They have had three 
weeks of steady rain, and I hope we will es- 
cape it. 

We had a drive before coming up to sleep, 
and from the general appearance in the centre 
of the city one is not very favorably impressed. 
See so many greasy looking and poor people. 
So many men who I don't believe ever had on 
a white collar, wearing a big thick muffler. 

There was no fog, very clear and sun- 
shiny, just pleasant for getting around. The 
houses are built of brick, very substantial, and 
very much like New York apartments on the 
street line. Where there is a lawn, such as on 
Roxboro Street, there is a stone fence 3 feet- 
high with a green shrubbery. 

And another very noticeable thing here are 

10 



the large -horses. Mr. Wilcox mentioned this 
to us before parting on the steamer, and I think 
horses will always take Tom's attention every- 
where. 

Well, May, Tom is waiting for me to have 
dinner, ,so will say good-bye, and before doing 
so must tell you the Cunard people treat their 
passengers excellently and Tom only wished 
the trip had lasted another week. 

We sent a cable >at 10 and you should have 
it at breakfast Tuesday. 



Hotel Cecil, Strand, London, W.(l 
Thursday, Aug. 28. 

I am just taking a little rest, and write 
these few lines to tell you that we have made 
a change from the St. Ermin's for the reason 
that the Cecil is more centrally located, more 
up-to-date, and a more beautiful ho-tel at a 
rate of 5/ Cheaper ($1.25), which will pay 'some 
of the taxis in a day. Every time we went out 
from the St. Ermin's we had to drive, and as 
this is in the theatrical centre as well as the 
shops it is a great deal more convenient. 

Called on Mr. Dodd, representative of th" 
Maclean Publishing Co., and he has invited us 
to his summer home on the sea for next Sun- 
day, which I think we will enjoy. 

Tried to get Mr. McKim, but he was out. 
Sent a note to Mr. Duff, telling him where he 
could find us. 

Received two letters yesterday from Dollie 

17 



and one from Elizabeth Deacon, but so far none 
from Toronto. Hope you have written. 

We went to the Eimpire last evening and it 
was the most entertaining vaudeville I have 
ever seen, away ahead of New York. Have 
booked to see "The Girl on the Film," a mus- 
ical comedy at the Gayety. 

Already we have commenced our sightsee- 
ing and visited the court house, saw the 'Chief 
Justice High Court and the Criminal Bench, on 
which I}r. Crippen received his sentence. 

Colonel Maclean is here, and he had already 
told Mr. Dodd of the McCarron House transfer 
and sale, so the news has traveled abroad ahead 
of us. 

This is really a wonderful city, but I haven 't 
my thoughts gathered enough to tell you, but 
will in another letter. 



Friday, Aug. 29. 

Since sending off a postal to you I have had 
a little rest and sleep. It is so tiresome tramp- 
ing around, just in the stores, because we usu- 
ally take taxis or trams. The former, of course, 
I much prefer, as they are so nice and clean. 
In the lower part of the tram it is very close, 
and on the top they seem to sway a great deal, 
which I don't like after coming off the steamer. 
They are very much like those green buses on 
Fifth Avenue in New York. 

From our window we can hear one continual 
blowing of the taxi horns. They are really in- 
numerable her?, and then the Cecil has a large 

18 



court in which the vehicles drive in for or with 
guests, and the 'horn sounds more loudly than 
on the street, and on the Strand there is a line 
just waiting for the porter's whistle to come 
in. I really could not give you any idea of the 
traffic scenes and how it is handled so well. This 
is really one thing that strikes the visitor very 
forcibly the system. 

Well, we started out this morning first for 
Harrod's, Limited, as we understood it was the 
largest departmental store, and so it is it is 
lovely. 

After lunch we drove to Self ridge's, in Ox- 
ford Street, but as there was an awful differ- 
ence in the two stores, we went out and a police- 
man directed us to Whiteley's. We got on a 
tram, rode as far as Queen 's Road, and walked 
three blocks, to find ourselves in a much in- 
ferior place, even the locality denoted that, and 
we hailed another taxi for the Cecil. 

It is now 5.15 p.m. and we have to dress for 
dinner before goin'g to the theatre The per- 
formance starts at 8.15, but the peopl* do not 
really come until 9.30, when the announcement 
of Revue is put out. 

This is a magnificent hotel, and built with 
office in front, immense large sitting room, 
ceiling must be as high as our house, done in 
white ornamental plaster, blue and gold com- 
bination of color used in the furnishings, chairs 
gold wicker and "blue brocaded cushions. An 
immense heavy gold electric fixture in the 
shape of candle lights hangs in centre, and on 
an elevation of several steps, perhaps six, is 
an adjoining room of the same design, and 

19 



elevating three more steps is another room done 
up in rose and gold, and is what they call the 
lounge. The others are used as palm rooms. 
Huge gold caskets on brass stands contain 
large ferns and palms. In here afternoon tea 
is served from 4 to 6, and in the evening late 
theatre suppers. 



Saturday, 6 p.m., Aug. 30, 1913. 

"We have been sightseeing all day and it is 
certainly very tiresome. We went driving, first 
seeing Westminster Abbey, the seat of the 
Anglican Church and the Coronation place of 
the English rulers. Buckingham Palace, the 
home of King George, who is, by the way, in 
the country, is having a new front, or, rather, 
the exterior cleaned during his absence, to re- 
place the very, very old plain one. So much 
fog and heavy salt-water atmosphere has ruined 
mostly all the good buildings, they are so dirty 
and damp looking. 

The Royal stables are mansions, and the 
horses that live there are favored. When you 
see the enormous number of poor women and 
cripples begging, or trying to make a few pen- 
nies 1 by selling flowers, matches, or some small 
wares on the streets, it seems almost criminal 
to have so much wealth accumulated in one 
place. Some poor things are trying to steal 
even a little nap, and as late as ll or 12, when 
the theatre crowds are returning, they are out, 
and at the same time taxis, with beautifully 
20 






dressed ladies arid men in evening suits, silk 
hats, are hurrying to some of the fashionable 
restaurants to sip champagne, perhaps for sup- 
per, or to smoke cigarettes. It doesn't seem 
right. We have seen parts where you could 
hardly believe there was such a thing as pov- 
erty, while in others the hardship is awful. 
Women stand outside drinking their glass of 
beer. Barmaids in all the small saloons. 

We have been told the Duke of Westminster 
is immensely rich, and draws 2 a minute 
whether asleep or awake. Just imagine the 
wealth he must have. Some of this would be 
well appreciated if distributed. 

In our drive we saw Trafalgar Square, as 
well as many others, in all of which there is 
some big memorial monument to some Royalty 
or hero, such as King Edward, Victoria, Duke 
of Wellington, etc., too many to mention. We 
also visited St. Paul's Cathedral, the largesl 
Protestant church in the world, and fashioned 
after St. Peter's, of Rome; 260 years old this 
September; took 35 years to build. At dif- 
ferent parts there are guides who explain things 
nicely. We mounted 236 steps to a large gal- 
lery (612 to the top of the tower), and at the 
entrance there was a guide who said ' ' Go to the 
opposite side and I will talk to you" 112 feet 
across. And wTien we were comfortably seated 
he gently put his head to the wall and whis- 
pered what he had to tell us, and you would 
have thought there was someone just behind 
talking to us. It was the strangest thing, and 
they found it out accidentally when some work- 
men were busy doing something. 
21 



After coming down these stairs our limbs 
just shook, and it was this that made me feel 
so tired. 

There are 7,000 taxis doing business in Lon- 
don, and at the time of cabs there were 30,000, 
and it took 11,000 to do the business. Of course, 
there are any number of trams and buses a 
penny a ride. 

I must tell you that in Hyde Park we saw 
a cemetery for dogs, and each one has a nice 
tombstone with name, etc. There are hun- 
dreds of dogs buried, and Tom has suggested 
sending Puppins here. 

It is 6.30 again, and we are going to the 
London Opera House to see "Gome Over Here." 

We met Tom 's friends from the steamer this 
morning. 



Sunday, Aug. 31. 

It is very dull and damp outside to-day and 
it is really much pleasanter to sit in this mag- 
nificent room and listen to the music which is 
given specially for dinner on Sunday, a copy of 
which I enclose. 

We went to Rev. Bernard Vaughan 's church, 
but, unfortunately, he is in Ireland at the pre- 
sent time, so we were a little disappointed. 

From early morn chimes were sounding in 
all directions, and the Sabbath is apparently 
observed very nicely; even the mail has no 
delivery. Thought we might have received 
something. 

83 




Tom has taken a walk as far as the St. Br- 
min's to see if there is any there. 

We enjoyed "Come Over Here" very much, 
and I am sending my souvenir under separate 
cover. Usually in the final chorus they distri- 
bute favors, and in two places I have been for- 
tunate enough to have one thrown to me. 

In the London Opera House, which is really 
magnificent; in fact, everything is too grand 
for me to give you any idea of the luxurious 
fittings, there was an elevated platform down 
the centre aisle and the rows of flowers along 
the sides were illuminated with electric bulbs, 
and it was on this the company finally ap- 
peared, throwing the souvenirs. Some received 
a long gold stick or wand tied with a large 
bouquet and bird on the top. 

There were 12 scenes one in Switzerland, 
with toboggan slide and everything for winter 
sport, as well as ice for the skaters. It was a 
magnificent thing. 

Another was a Venetian scene, with a young 
man and lady in a gondola, and when the little 
ducks came swimming in, and each one in its 
turn flapped its wing as if bowing to the aud- 
ience, much applause was given, and it was so 
cute. The two in the boat threw something to 
them to eat. There were also some swimming 
girls, who went down in the water and came 
up in the grandest shades. 

You will notice in looking at the pro- 
gramme a French lady "the spider web." It 
is something new. She is done up in a velvet 
outfit to represent a spider, and she climbs on 
the web, which occupies the whole stage, and 

28 



manoeuvres around just like a spider, and when 
the beautiful butterfly and bluebeatle appear 
(two girls) the spider comes down and jumps 
around until it catches the smaller insects, and 
when the spider bites he finishes them by 
throwing them up against the web and they 
are supposed to be dead. It is really a very 
novel thing and very well acted. 

Tom has come back from the St. Ermin's 
and finds there is some mail for Dollie but none 
for us. Good-bye with love. 



Monday, Sept. 1. 

This is another rainy day. We did not get 
up until near 11, had breakfast and lunch to- 
gether, and I am now waiting for Tom to come 
from the barber's. 

After dinner yesterday we visited two of 
the largest art galleries and museums, spending 
some two or more hours there. The National 
Gallery contains the principal masterpieces, 
many of which are world-famous. Practically 
every school is represented by the finest works 
of its greatest painters, and some of the Italian 
productions are as old as 1330. 

On returning we drove through White- 
chapel, 7 miles, to see something of the poorer 
districts and what has been described as "the 
low life deeps." In a city of such vastness 
f here are numerous slum districts, shoals of 
poverty and despair, but Whitechapel is the 
most familiar, and in comparison, they say, 
with the Bowery of New York, it is quiet, even 

24 



dull, and decidedly not dangerous. We saw 
some awfully filthy people and especially in the 
Jewish section. The streets are so narrow and 
crowded, but they seem to have good policing. 

Had dinner in the American grill about 6.30 
p.m., and sat in the palm room to listen to the 
music and particularly the solos by Mr. Cook 
and Miss Weiss, but once was quite enough, 
and then we retired to have a good sleep. 

Nearly everywhere it is French attendants 
the waiters are all French, and a great deal 
of the cooking is Frenchy. When away from 
the hotel we look for American grill, where we 
can get plain bread, Heinz 's catchup and 
pickles. 

We are going now to see Messrs. Burroughs 
& Watts, the large manufacturers of pool and 
billiard tables; also to see Mr. Jenkins, Tom's 
friend, and then Mr. McKim. We have already 
covered quite a lot of ground in two weeks. 

Tom met someone on the street he knew in 
Toronto. There are a number of Toronto people 
registered at the Cecil, but the place is so im- 
mense one could not see them unless by ap- 
pointment. 

I suppose Car and Em are home again. Hope 
you are feeling better. Has Ollie returned? 

Tom is coming for me. Love to all. Read 
letters to Maudie, as I can't write too many. 



Monday, Sept. 1, 5 p.m. 

Have just received your letter of the 23rd, 
and was so glad to get it; also one from Mrs. 
Dandy and R. E. Duff. I was beginning 
to think he was not going to look us up, 
but he is out of the city and will not be 
in until the 6th or 7th, and he has asked us 
to give him an evening. I know he will enter- 
tain us nicely. He had a letter or telegram 
from, A. W. Hughes at the time he received 
mine. 

We called to see Mr. McKim, but he is feel 
ing a little " queer," as the clerk said, mean- 
ing ill, and has not been to the office since 
Thursday. 

Met the manager at Burroughs and Watts 
and he was good enough to entertain us with a 
little talk generally and showed us the dif- 
ferent sample rooms fitted up for the high 
priced homes some costing $4,000. 

Indeed, he was very nice and told us when 
in Canada last year he met one of the Orr 
brothers, and he evidently had seen over the 
property, for he knew the number of tables, 
etc. He invited Tom to some of the good games 
of billiards if we were in London at the season 
they commence playing. In the upper storey 
of their warerooms is a large room with a bil- 
liard table for the exhibition or professional 
games. Red leather cushioned chairs on the 
sides and an elevated part, such as one would 
see in a theatre, on each end, where spectators 
can fully enjoy the games. Everything here is 
for the comfort and pleasure of the man with 
money. 

26 






We then drove to Harrods, Ltd., the big 
store, and put in another couple of hours. 

I will write to the Mauretania to forward 
your letters to Paris. I can get them on her 
return trip. Sorry they arrived too late to 
reach me before sailing. 

Glad to know all are well. Remember us 
kindly to Mrs. Oliver and the boys. Love to 
the family. 

Margaret's picture is cute. 



Tuesday, Sept. 2. 

This is another miserable day, raining now 
for the past three days, and it is real cool and 
unpleasant outside, so I am contenting myself 
inside while Tom has gone to Oxford Street to 
call again on Mr. Jenkins. We are to have 
afternoon tea with Mr. McKim at 5. He is a 
semi-invalid and unable to come out, so we 
are going to see him on his invitation. 

London is very busy. The buildings are 
built of either white brick or stone, are very 
dirty, and have the appearance of Canadian 
streets in March or April when frozen after 
rain and the buildings are shining with white 
frost. This is due, I believe, to the salt water 
atmosphere, and in time it completely spoils 
things. The cleanest or newest thing we have 
seen is Queen Victoria's memorial, a large foun- 
tain in front of Buckingham Palace, or rather 
in the centre of the streets which cross there. 
Guards of honor are on duty all the time in 
front of the palace, as well as the armories, 

27 



etc., and have small boxes or stalls where they 
stand, no room to sit; others march up and 
down like a Polar bear; some are mounted on 
horseback. 

The policemen resemble very much the To- 
ronto force, the uniforms being almost the 
same. In the warm weather they wear a straw 
helmet. 



Thursday, Sept. 4. 

We have just received the papers of the 19th 
and note with interest the items marked. Don't 
know Mr. Baylis, do I? 

You will notice the Cunard office had the 
impression that the Mauretania sailed at the 
time they told us, Mr. Wilcox, the Eaton Co.' 
buyer from Winnipeg, had booked seats for the 
theatre that night and just as he was going 
the clerk in the McAlpin Hotel told him the 
steamer sailed at midnight, consequently chang- 
ing all his plans. 

Had a card this a.m. from Dollie from Paris. 
She will arrive in London on Saturday. 

As I told you, we called on Mr. McKim, to 
find he had his face in a bandage to cover a 
big carbuncle just at his temple, and while it 
was not painful he had to remain in and the 
doctor had bandaged his face so. 

His apartments are cute, big easy chairs, 
couches, piano, etc., and different varieties of 
smokes for his callers. Mr. Thurston, an old 
friend, called while we were there, and he was 
exceedingly nice. Mr. McKim then showed 

28 



his hospitality by getting whiskey and soda, 
served from silver tray, cut glass decanter and 
glasses, but Tom had to refuse on account of 
not drinking, and Mr. Thurston was so glad 
to hear Tom say so, as it did not agree with 
him and he could refuse too. Then Mr. McKim 
busied himself by making tea, which was served 
from silver tea service, with two kinds of cake. 
The cluny lace cloth was exceptionally nice, 
and, altogether, we spent two very pleasant 
hours, and as he hopes to see us again we did 
not say good-bye. 

After dinner we went to see "Within the 
Law," a real good drama. You. must see it if 
it ever goes to Toronto. Wednesday the sun 
came out a little, but as I did not feel too good 
I remained in, while Tom went to the sale 
stables to see the horses sold. He is particu- 
larly anxious to see the King's stables, and I 
think he will be off there to-day. It is now 
1.30 and I am not out of the room yet. Tom 
ordered breakfast to the room for me, and I 
can enjoy it while he goes to the grill for steak, 
bacon and eggs. 

I am, not awfully taken with the taste of 
some things, and to me everything has a funny 
smell. I think it is the water. We saw "The 
Real Thing" played by Allan Aynesworth and 
Miss Terry, a daughter of Ellen Terry. Very 
nice. 

Had a letter from Mr. Dodd, telling us how 
to reach Westcliff, and he is expecting us on 
Sunday. Colonel Maclean sailed on Wednes- 
day, but I did not see him. 

There are some very cute little puppies here. 

29 



Prince Charles seems to be the most favored. 
I must get out; the sun is shining "beauti- 
fully through a clouded sky, which is consid- 
ered 1 very fine here. 



Friday, Sept. 5. 

Another rainfall, starting about 3.30, which 
means that there can be no outdoor sightseeing 
this afternoon. 

We had an early start this morning, getting 
up at 7 a.m., had 'breakfast, took a tram to 
Westminster Abbey, which is unique in historic 
interest as the Coronation Church of English 
Sovereigns and the burial place of the distin- 
guished dead. 

The abbey is, architecturally, one of the 
most beautiful Gothic buildings in England, 
and contains the memorials of kings and 
queens up to the time of "some" George. 

From there we went to the St. Ermin's, 
inquired for mail; but none for us, some for 
Dollie. Also visited the Army and Navy Stores, 
Limited, a large departmental store owned by 
membership, which means purchasers must 
have a membership ticket or number. 

Then to Westminster Cathedral, founded or 
built by Cardinal Vaughan, some years ago, 
but is wanting a great deal of money to com- 
plete it. 

Making our way back, we went into the 
Canadian Commissioner's office, and had a look 
at all the late Toronto papers on file. Saw 
notice of Mrs. O'Hagan's death. Her son was 

so 



with The Maclean Publishing Co., and I met 
him in Eaton's the day before leaving. 

Had a letter from Dollie this morning and 
one yesterday. Tom has booked seats to take 
the party to the Hippodrome Saturday, when 
they arrive. 

We are going to see Gaby Deslys to-night. 
Saw a vaudeville at the Tivoli last night, but 
it was poor, after seeing the other very good 
houses and shows. 

On our return from Hampton Court, about 
7.30, we only had time to get a little to eat in 
order to be in time for some theatre, and the 
Tivoli being next door to the Cecil on the 
Strand we went in there, but was not very well 
impressed. There is a saloon in connection 
with it, and the bartenders walk up and down 
the aisles with tray and towel ready to serve 
or take an order. 

We were, no doubt, the poorest customers 
present. Everybody has a bottle of wine, etc., 
at meal time, and ice water, tea or coffee is not 
served unless specially asked for. 

Have sent cards to a great many friends, in- 
cluding all in Bradford, Gilford, and the people 
in Shaw Street. 

It is cool enough for my heavy black suit. 
The autumn, I think, has already set in. 

At Hampton Court we spent some very in- 
teresting time viewing the old palace, built in 
the 16th century by Cardinal Wolsey, and later 
presented to Henry VIII, and the beautiful gar- 
dens, renowned for their old-fashioned charm 
and wealth of flowers, and the famous grape 
vine, which is situated at the end of the Pond 

31 



Garden, planted in 1768. The grape is of a 
black variety and as many as 2,200 bunches 
have been produced. Its principal branch is 
114 feet long and is spoken of as the largest in 
Europe, if not in the world. 

In the thirty-six rooms open there are about 
one thousand pictures by three hundred artists 
of every school and style and every degree of 
merit. To assist the visitor a guide, who can 
be procured on entering for a small fee, points 
out the most notable, and it really saves a great 
deal of time. 

The tapestries, too, are beautiful, and the 
finest, I believe, are in the Great Hall, eight 
pieces illustrative of episodes^ in the life of 
Abraham. They are exquisitely designed and 
of wonderful workmanship. 

Every room, from the Great Staircase, the 
King's Guard Chamber, Presence Chamber, 
Audience Chamber, Drawing Room, State Bed- 
room, Dressing Room, Writing Room, and the 
Queen's various rooms are full of interest and 
articles priceless as to value. Money could not 
buy them. 

At the present time there are 45 titled ladies 
and one man, the parson, living at the palace, 
occupying 45 suites. Guards of honor are sta- 
tioned outside, patroling with a rifle on their 
Shoulder, and walking just a certain number of 
steps to a turn, as if counting or marking time. 

The drive to Hampton was very nice, pass- 
ing along the Victoria Embankment, through 
Westminster to Chelsea, one of the picturesque 
districts of London ; Richmond Park, Kingston- 
on-Thames, the place of coronation of the Saxon 

82 



kings, and returning by Bushey Park, Tedding- 
ton, Kew, the famous gardens; Hammersmith, 
Kensington, Piccadilly, Leicester Square, and 
the Cecil on the Strand, our London home. 

At the High Commissioner's office this morn- 
ing we were told we would not require pass- 
ports for the other countries we intend visit- 
ing. Will probably know to-morrow or Sun- 
day when we will be leaving London. Dollie's 
itinerary calls for Scotland first before Ireland. 
Just the reverse to what we thought it would 
be. 

Hope you are well, including Puppins. See 
some very nice dogs here, there is a particu- 
larly nice one in the hotel. And monstrous cats 
are sitting around on doorsteps with much com- 
fort, and don't seem afraid of the immense 
traffic and dogs. 



September 6. 

I won't attempt to write very much just 
now. I don't like the pen available and we are 
just going out again. 

Received your three letters and the large 
envelope containing the mail sent to Roxboro. 
Thanks very much. Also one from Mrs. Martin. 
Will reply later. 

We are going to see London Tower and 
Bridge. 

Had a very pleasant morning at Houses of 
Parliament and the Crystal Palace, the Im- 
perial throne in the former being the special 
feature. 

33 



Saturday, Sept. 6. 

Have just come in by way of a little rest, 
and before dressing to meet Dollie, as this is 
the day of their arrival in London, will tell 
you what we have been doing to-day. 

First of all, we were real glad to have all 
your letters and to know you and father are 
well. Don't overtire yourself and you will be 
all right. Keep taking the tonic. 

We drove to Crystal Palace, where we spent 
some time viewing the different booths and 
other things of interest. Of course, it is a 
little late in the season and some are already 
closed. It is an immense building, principally 
of glass, and would remind one of Toronto's 
Industrial Building at the Pair grounds. Out- 
side, all attractions, such as at Scarboro Beach, 
are for the amusement of the crowds. But I 
must say the peanuts were a great disappoint- 
ment to me. Too damp to enjoy. 

It was fully 3 p.m. before we arrived back 
at the Cecil, had lunch, and on our way to the 
Tower and Bridge. We were just in time to see 
this great mechanical construction open to 
allow a German liner to pass down the Thames. 

The Tower of London is full of historic in- 
terest, and used at one time for State prisoners. 
The Regalia or Crown Jewels, including the 
Imperial Crown, are kept there, and it was our 
pleasure to see the crown used for the recent 
coronation. In order to alter it to fit the late 
King Edward a search for 25 pearls to match 
had to be made through 25 packages of 5,000 
pearls. It contains 2,818 diamonds, 297 pearls, 

84 



and many other jewels. They are very grand, 
and I don't suppose we will ever see the equal 
again. It takes so much time to tell you all. 



Monday, 12 p.m. 

It is only now I have been able to complete 
the note. 

We met Dollie and party, and Tom, having 
secured tickets, we all went to the Hippodrome, 
returning to the St. Ermin's until 12.30, and 
then back to the Cecil to sleep. Dollie intro- 
duced us to her party friends, including Rev. 
Dr. Hickey and Father Kennedy, a Paulist 
Father of New York City. All are looking 
well. 

During our absence R. E. Duff called so we 
did not see him. 

We were up early Sunday, going to the little 
Corpus Christi Church, opposite the Cecil, so 
as to get the 10.28 train for Westcliff to visit 
Mr. and Mrs. Dodd. Arrived about noon, had 
such a lovely homelike dinner, strolled on the 
board walk reminding one of Atlantic City 
and returned to the Cecil at 6 p.m. Had sup- 
per and drove to the St. Ermin's, and was de- 
lightfully surprised to see R. E. D. coming in at 
8.30 p.m. He remained with us until after 10, 
and he came up to-day at 2 p.m. to take us out 
to Windsor Castle, where we spent a pleasant 
and interesting time. And in a few words I 
will try to tell you something of the home of 
the late Queen Victoria, which contains the his- 
tory of England for many years back. But it 

85 



takes time to investigate the history and beauty 
of the surroundings thoroughly, and as the in- 
teriors are only opened during certain hours 
daily one has to grasp as much as one can.. 

The State apartments, which comprise many 
rooms, are devoted entirely to ceremonial pur- 
poses, and are occupied residentially only by 
Crowned Heads when visiting the Monarch of 
England. These magnificent suites are gor- 
geously ornamented, sumptuously furnished, 
and contain a most valuable collection of paint- 
ings and tapestries. 

The grand reception room is a gorgeous 
room, ornamented in the style of the period of 
Louis XV. The Van Dyck Room, containing 
pictures done by Van Dyck himself, is used as 
the drawing room for evening receptions when 
the Court is at Windsor. The Rubens Room 
(another artist) is the suite of rooms occupied 
by State visitors to the castle. 

The Albert Memorial Chapel's magnificence 
is beyond description, and all wealth and talent 
the late Queen could produce was secured to 
beautify the memorial to her husband. The 
monument to the Duke of Clarence, eldest 
brother of King George, is worthy of attention. 
Our guide told us he is clothed in his uniform, 
and at his feet is an angel holding a broken 
wedding wreath, in allusion to the marriage 
which was prevented by his death. You can 
see how very interesting all details are, but 
time flies so quickly. 

Even the magnificent position of Windsor 
Castle, on the summit of a hill which rises 
abruptly from the level land of the Thames 
N 






Valley, commands considerable attention, and 
can be seen for some distance. Eton College is 
also well worth a visit for the sake of seeing the 
buildings and grounds. It was founded in 
1440 by Henry VI and has always been con- 
sidered a great educational home. 

Well, getting a train at 5 p.m., after having 
afternoon tea, we were back to the Cecil at 6.40 
p.m. ; dressed hurriedly to have dinner at the 
Piccadilly Hotel with Mr. Duff, and then to 
Wyndham's Theatre to see "Diplomacy," and 
the St. Ermin's until 12, so it is really time I 
was in bed. 

It is 1 a.m., and Tom has been enjoying the 
Toronto papers received to-day. 

We have decided to leave for Scotland on 
Saturday the 13th, and I presume we will be 
pretty well on the move all the time until we 
reach Paris. 

Mr. Duff asked us to keep Thursday for him 
and to be remem'bered to you both. A. W. H. 
is at Cheltenham visiting his family and may 
be in London any day. 

You can read this to Maudie. It will ac- 
knowledge her letter until I can get time to 
write. Hope Ollie is feeling quite better. 

Remember us kindly to all. Can't write any 
more ; must get into bed. Heaps of love. 



Wednesday, Sept. 10. 

We are still in London, a few days longer 
than we intended to be, but as Tom has ar- 
ranged to join the McGrane party to tour Scot- 

37 



land and Ireland, it means we do not leave until 
the 13th, going first to Edinburgh. I haven't 
seen the itinerary, but any mail that is on the 
way we will get all right. Our address in Paris 
will be the Continental and not Palace d'Orsay. 
We learn it is much more central and con- 
venient. 

It has been very fine all day, although about 
2 o'clock it got very cloudy and looked like 
rain, but that is quite usual here. One can 
never judge the weather. 

Visited the Bank of England, a place of in- 
terest, and at noon there are more people pass 
its corner than anywhere else in the world 
We found visitors were not allowed, so got in 
on the pretence of having a Canadian $10 gold 
piece to exchange, but they would not take it. 
So many places refused it, but Cook's office ex- 
changed it at full value. 

When we returned from "Oh I Say" last 
evening we found Dollie, E. D., Jim, E. McC., 
Mrs. Shaw, Dr. Buckley and Miss Hurst wait- 
ing for us. They had been to see "The Girl on 
the Film" and liked it very much. We enjoyed 
the show we saw and are going to see "Step 
this Way" to-night. We tried to get seats for 
"Joseph and His Brethren," but could gee 
nothing. This is something new, just opened 
last Friday, and people sat from early morning 
in the rain in order to get admission. It seems 
to be quite the thing to get in the first night. 
Maxine Elliott is playing. The staging is beau- 
tiful, so we are told, and the papers are com- 
menting on it in every issue. 

We have partly arranged with Cook's for 

88 



our trip on the Continent and are waiting now 
for an estimate of the itinerary submitted. We 
hope to receive it to-day so we can have Dr. 
Buckley's opinion, as he is in a position to give 
us a good idea as to its fair value. We will 
spend on hour or so with Dollie at the St. Er- 
min '$ after the show. 

They were going to visit Windsor Castle to- 
day and they should enjoy it as it has been fine. 
Better than yesterday, as they just got started 
for Hampton Court when it rained very heavily 
and they got so chilled. However, the hot rum 
soon chased all dampness and all are feeling 
real good. 

Jack Shaw sailed on the Coronia yesterday. 



Saturday, Sept. 13. 

It seems to me when I am writing I am al- 
ways in a frightful hurry. We are off to Scot- 
land this a.m. at 10. Our last two days here 
have been extra busy. 

Thursday we spent with seven of the Mc- 
Grane party, including Bishop Tihen, of Lin- 
coln, Nebraska; E. Deacon, Jim, E. McC., Miss 
Hurst, and Dollie, in Shakespeare's country, 
Stratford-upon-Avon. 

After riding on train almost two hours 
(playing 500) we arrived at Coventry, and con- 
tinued the journey of 30 miles in a motor bus, 
reaching the Kennelworth Castle, or at least the 
ruins, where we were allowed 30 minutes before 
proceeding to Guy Cliffe, four miles distant, a 
famous old mill of the 16th century, still in 



operation. An old man was sitting reciting 
poetry at the entrance and handed each one 
who bought postals a small green slip contain- 
ing his verses. 

We were in Warwick at 12.45, had lunch iu 
a quaint little hotel, principally of corn beef 
and cabbage a treat to the others, but not 
to me. At two we were ready again and visited 
the beautiful castle of the Earl or Countess of 
Warwick their home four months of the year. 
A small fee of 2/ (50c.) was charged for each 
one, which is eventually given by the Countess 
in aid of some of her fancies. A small fee is 
generally demanded for admission to a great 
many buildings and distributed for charity by 
order of His Majesty. 

Continuing our drive, we came to Stratford- 
upon-Avon at 4 p.m., the home and birthplace 
of Shakespeare and his wife, Anne Hathaway. 
Here you almost feel or breathe antiquity. On 
all sides are the most ancient and quaint little 
places. 

We first visited Anne Hathaway 's cottage in 
the village of Shottery, a mile beyond Strat- 
ford, her parental home, and which remained 
the property of the Hathaway farnilv until 
1838. 

Shakespeare's birthplace, in Henley Street, 
a detached building, is formed of two houses 
communicating with each other, arid one has 
been converted into a museum and library, in 
which are exhibited relics, books, manuscripts, 
etc., while in the other can be seen the kitchen, 
living room, and the room in which Shakes- 
peare was born in 1564. 

40 



Another, known as the new place, was pur 
chased in 1597 by Shakespeare, and it was here 
he died in 1616, at the age of 52 years. We also 
visited the old cathedral containing Shakes- 
peare 's tomb. 

Had dinner on the train and were back in 
London again about 10 p.m. 

Friday morning I spent packing trunks and 
fixing up with Cook's. Will send you a copy 
in a day or two. 

At 2 p.m. Mr. Duff came for us as arranged, 
and we went to see Madame Tussaud's exhibi- 
tion of wax works, where I enjoyed so much the 
wonderful works of modeling in wax. All im- 
portant personages, events, or even the cruel 
or awful criminal are to be seen. 

Then we went to Brighton Beach, another 
place similar to Atlantic City, for fish suppe* 
in a most luxurious Pullman. Returned to Lon- 
don at 9 and he remained with us till 11 p.m. 

It is almost time for me to start, so must be 
off. It will take half an hour to reach the 
depot. Received Lizzie's card. Much love. 



Caledonian Railway Co., 

Princess Street Station Hotel, 

Edinburgh. 
Sunday, Sept. 14. 

We arrived here last evening at 6.15, after 
8 hours' ride on the train, playing 500 and 
spending some time at luncheon. Had a small 
coach for ourselves 11 in all. It commenced 
raining about 3 or 4, almost at the border line 

41 



between England and Scotland, and was teem- 
ing when we reached the Caledonian. Fortu- 
nately the hotel, which is very nice, is right at 
the depot, so we had not to go out. 

After dinner Toin and I drove to call on 
Agnes' mother, but Monday being a holiday 
they had gone to a summer cottage for the 
week end and to take advantage of the extra 
day. We met a Mr. Dickson in the next apart- 
ment, whose son is living in Toronto. He kindly 
invited us in and offered the customary whiskey 
and soda, which we had to decline. 

It poured all night and again this morning, 
and at 11, when going to the Cathedral, it was 
awful. At noon, however, it cleared, and at 
3.15, after waiting so long to get out, three 
closed carriages came, and we drove to an old 
castle, the home of the Stuart family, James I 
of England, birthplace of Mary, Queen tof 
Scots. Had a guide to explain all, but were not 
allowed to enter. A great many soldiers were 
stationed there. We finished by driving around 
the city, seeing it just in a general way Some 
parts remind one of Quebec with its height. 

It has turned very cool and chilly. Every- 
thing is closed, and the Sunday is more sancti- 
fied than in Toronto. We are contenting our- 
selves with a game of cards and are playing in 
Dollie's room, which is very large. 

We leave again in the morning for Glasgow 
at 9 a.m. a holiday, and stores will all be 
closed. 

They want me in the game now ; must be off. 



42 



Central Station Hotel, Glasgow. 
Sept. 16, 12 a.m. 

The weather is very much against us, as it 
has been raining all morning and the mist is so 
thick you cannot see any distance. We are 
only to be here one day, leaving to-night by 
boat for Belfast. 

Our trip through the Trossachs was very 
fine, and all enjoyed the beautiful scenery and 
particularly the fine day. 

We went by rail from Edinburgh to a place 
called Collander, a favorite holiday place, 
where a four-in-hand coach awaited the arrival 
of the party, and without any delay we were 
soon on the road leading through the very pic- 
turesque country to the Trossachs Hotel, where 
lunch was served in good style. Continuing the 
drive we arrived at Loch Katrine about 2.15, 
Where* all embarked on the Sir Walter Scott to 
further and fully enjoy the pleasant scenery, to 
Stronachlacher. Parting with the steamer, we 
spent a little time at the Stronachlacher Hotel 
while coaches were made ready for the extra 
large party of tourists. 

Proceeding, we were soon on the way to 
Inversmaid, where the scenery changes some- 
what to a very lonely and desolate character; 
but at Inversmaid there is a very pretty silvery 
waterfall that inspired Wordsworth in his "To 
a Highland Girl." Once more we made an- 
other start, taking the steamer on Loch 
Lomond, calling at different points with or for 
picnic parties who were out spending the holi- 

43 



day in this pretty country. At last we came to 
Balloch, from where we took the train to Glas- 
gow, arriving in time for dinner at 8 p.m. It 
being too late to do any more outing, we played 
500 until 12. 

We were out this morning for a little while 
to see some of the stores, but there is practically 
nothing to compare with one department in 
Eaton's. 

I think we will go out this afternoon, rain 
or shine, but I can't see the advantage of a 
drive as one cannot see very far in the mist and 
there does not seem to be any let up in sight. 

I hope you are getting along all right. Have 
some cards to address, so will write you at an- 
other time. Remember us to all and with heaps 
of love for yourselves. 

I will send you a little booklet descriptive 
of the Trossachs, whic'h you will find very in- 
teresting. 



Royal Mail Steamer Red Breast. 
Sept. 16, 11 p.m. 

We have just finished playing 500 and feel 
like getting off to bed. Tom has been in now 
for over an hour. Our day in Glasgow was 
very wet, having rained up to 3 p.m. 

We started from the hotel about 2.15 in 
closed carriages and drove first to the oldest 
cathedral, Presbyterian ; the museum, where 
we spent considerable time seeing the different 
sights, such as pictures, models of boats, stuffed 

44 



birds and animals of all kinds, and other cur- 
iosities to be found in suc'h places. 

Returned to the hotel at 4 p.m., played 500 
until 6.30, when we had dinner in time to start 
for steamer at 7.45, sailing at 8 p.m. This is 
comparatively a small liner, carrying 132 pas- 
sengers. We are in a dense fog and the whistle 
is very busy 'blowing a signal. I believe we are 
to dock at 6 a.m. an awful hour and will 
breakfast at the Grand Hotel. After our game 
the girls, Jim and I had refreshments of sand- 
wiches, celery, sweet pickles, tomatoes, lettuce 
and tea. All relished them very much. 

Since leaving the Cecil we have been having 
meals table d'hote and some of the courses are 
not pleasing to me. 

Dr. Buckley is very nice and makes a very 
agreeable guide or conductor. 

Bishop Tihen, who is also traveling with the 
party, is very nice and plays cards with Dollie 
all the time ; in fact, she is his partner in every 
game. To-day he very kindly gave each lady 
a little souvenir book of poems, "The Lady of 
the Lake," written by Sir Walter Scott in the 
Trossachs, and it was indeed very acceptable 
and appropriate after having just passed 
through the country. He is immensely big, 
wears the Prince Albert, and looks so nice. 

Well, it is late, and the others are still play- 
ing, but I am sleepy, and while it is calm T 
will drop into Slumberland. 

Hoping I may hear from you any day now. 



45 



Royal Mail Steamer Red Breast. 
Sept. 17, 8.20 a.m. 

We are ready to land in Ireland, having had 
a good passage across the Irish Sea, but on ac- 
count of fog we are two hours late. Large ship- 
building docks are to be seen now, and we are 
told they are larger than those on the Clyde, 
but it was so dark last night we couldn't see. 
The White Star have a liner in construction 
and it certainly looks very huge. 

The 'bus which was to have met us is not 
at the dock, so we are going farther and will 
sail for another half hour. The sun is shining 
so nicely we ought to have a real pleasant day 
in Belfast. 

We found Edinburgh much nicer than Glas- 
gow, although the latter is better commercially. 
The poverty we have already seen is terrible, 
nothing in Canada to equal it, and the people 
are so dirty. Of course, if you pass any remark 
about it, you invariably get the answer that it 
is the Irish element settled there. Toronto 
would not tolerate the awful unsanitary look- 
ing places. Give me the modern and up-to-date 
rather than the antique. 



Grand Central Hotel, Belfast. 
Sept. 17, 10 p.m. 

We have had a little walk after dinner and 
are ready for bed, feeling tired, so this will be 
very short. 

After breakfast at 9 a.m. we hurried to get 



the train at 9.45, riding two hours, playing 500, 
to Coleraine, where we changed trains to Port- 
rush, and then the trolley to Giant's Causeway. 
Had lunch at 1.30 and had a good walk down 
the cliff to a large rowboat. All got in, and two 
distinctly Irishmen rowed us to Portcoon Cave, 
and when in quite a distance a man, who makes 
his living by collecting pennies from the tour- 
ists, fired off a gun so we could hear the echo. 
I can't really describe it properly to you; the 
charm and beauty of all we have seen is the 
fact of being right on the spot. 

We then went to another cave 600 feet long 
and 90 ft. high imagine the size and the rug- 
gedness of the Irish coast. The Amphitheatre, 
a mile distant, was the next attraction, but 
when passing the Giant's Causeway proper Tom 
and I got out of the boat. I couldn't stand the 
motion >any longer and Tom was so frightened 
while in the cave he became real pale. 

I think some of the others were sorry they 
didn't get out, too, as they felt rather uncom- 
fortable for a while. In fact, I think one or 
two had to sacrifice their lunch. It looked per- 
fectly calm, but there was enough swell to 
make it very rocky. However, while the 
others were away Tom and I visited the little 
curio or souvenir shops and then got a jaunt- 
ing car and drove to the hotel to await their 
return. 

Leaving again at 4.30 p.m., we boarded a 
train at 6 p.m. and were at the hotel in time 
to have dinner at 8.45, so you see we had a very 
busy day. It was intended that we should 
leave in the morning for Dublin, but there is a 

47 



big strike on one man killed to-day and I 
don't know now what the arrangements will 
be. Anyone who compared Belfast with To- 
ronto made an awful mistake. There is simply 
no comparison. The streets are paved with 
stone, and there are very few illuminations on 
the street; in fact, it was so dark I didn't care 
to go out. 

I am enclosing some cards which will show 
you the Giant's Causeway. One shows the 
Wishing Chair, and any wish asked in this is 
surely granted. One boatman said when he was 
17 he wished for the girl he loved best, and in 
12 months he got her and now he has 7 sons 
and each one has a sister. How many ? 



G-resham Hotel, Dublin. 
September 18. 

I am just waiting to hear what the pro- 
gramme is for to-night. Some have not finished 
dinner yet. I was up early this morning ar- 
ranging trunks, as we have decided to leave one 
in care of Cook's in Paris, as we do not need 
too many changes when on the Continent, and 
baggage is very expensive, to say nothing of 
the trouble. Had breakfast at 9, went into 
some of the stores till 10 a m., when we got 
into jaunting cars and drove around the city. 
I sent Mrs. Keane a card, telling her she did 
the right thing when she left Ireland. 

The country itself is very pretty, but the 
poverty and dirt in some quarters is the limit ; 
children and even adults pleading for pennies 

48 



everywhere. There is a little girl not much 
bigger than Margaret at the hotel door in 'bare 
feet reciting pieces for coppers Tom has given 
her quite a supply. 

Sorry to hear of Uncle Pat's illness. Had a 
letter from Emily and Mrs. Martin. Will write 
them later. No more just now. 



Great Southern Hotel, Killarney. 
September 20. 

On arriving here I found four letters of the 
2nd, 5th, 6th and 8th waiting for me, and, need- 
less to say, I was so glad to have them and to 
know you are well and hope you will continue 
so. 

Our day and a half in Dublin was very wet, 
and we were obliged to drive in closed car- 
riages, which is very unfortunate when touring 
or sightseeing. However, we first visited a 
very old and fine cemetery, that is, in the way 
of tombs and monuments, but as it was pour- 
ing I didn't get out of the carriage; then to 
Christ Church Cathedral, the diocesan cathed- 
ral of the Sees of Dublin, one time Catholic, but 
now Anglican, and is viewed very interestingly 
from a historical or architectural point. It has 
suffered destruction a great many times and 
has been restored to its original model of the 
1.3th century. Many bishops and noted people 
are buried there. 

The Royal Castle and Trinity College were 
next, and our afternoon of sightseeing was 
completed. 



Played 500 until dinner and after until 12 
p.m. . It is the only game we 'attempt. 

We went to the Abbey Theatre and laughed 
so much at the Irish play that we were glad 
to return to the hotel. Tom wouldn't go. He 
would rather watch the traffic. It has become 
quite a joke now and he is titled the informa- 
tion and traffic manager. 

It was raining again this morning and 
poured for some distance before reaching Kil- 
larney, and about noon we were glad to see the 
sky clearing and sun coming out. 

On our arrival at 3 p.m., it was quite 
nice, but at 7 p.m. it was pouring. Doesn't it 
seem hard luck ? We are hoping to be favored 
with a nice day to-morrow on the Killarney 
Lakes. 

There is practically nothing to be seen in 
this town excepting the poverty. Every 
woman, girl -and child wears a shawl, which is 
thrown around them and over the head. This 
was market day and the little two-wheeled 
carts, drawn by donkeys, were empty and ready 
to return home. 

We are now waiting dinner. It is 7 p.m., 
and after a basket lunch on the train I am 
hungry and ready for a good meal. 

The McGrane Co. had a coach reserved for 
the party and each one was given a lunch 
basket, containing knife, fork, .salt, pepper, mus- 
tard, butter, cheese, lettuce, chicken, and a 
large roll, with ginger ale to drink. 

This is a very pretty hotel and I am enclos- 
ing cards giving different views. We were so 
sorry to hear of the death of Mrs. Shaw's 
brother. 

50 



I received all your letters. Those addressed 
to the St. Ermin's were forwarded to me. I 
have already sent you 'an itinerary of our trip. 

Had a nice letter from Carrie to-day. Hope 
Ollie is feeling better and he will soon be all 
right. You might read my letters to him as I 
haven't the time to write all; even cards take 
time. 

Tom and I find Dr. Buckley very nice, and 
when the Bishop is in his room I play cards 
with Dollie. Mrs. Shaw and Dr. Buckley play 
partners. 



September 21. 

We were very much favored with a beauti- 
ful day for our trip through the Lakes of Kil- 
larney. Started at 10.15 after going to Church 
of the Franciscan Priests for Kate Karney's 
Cottage. We drove in a large coach for 10 
miles, where Bishop Tihen treated the party 
to anything they liked, that is, grape wine, 
milk, etc. Then we mounted the ponies. I 
straddled, the other ladies going sidesaddle, but 
after we went a short distance Dollie had her 
saddle changed and she was made more com- 
fortable, too. Photographers were ready to 
take pictures, and then we started on the 6 
miles through the Gap of Dunloe, where, at 
different places through the lonely gap, are 
cripples begging, and others playing some in- 
strument, firing off powder so we could hear 
the echo, and farther on a woman with a bottle 
of milk ready to give a drink with a wee drop 

51 



of the "good stuff." I took my milk clear 
another I/ (25 cents). Words cannot tell you 
of the grandeur and wonderful natural beauty 
of the scenery, but when you look at the little 
thatched-roofed cottages in the awful loneli- 
ness it seems terrible to me. At St. Patrick's 
Cottage, another little refreshment place, all 
had a drink, and it was 2.30 p.m. before we 
reached the lakes, after ascending and descend- 
ing some 3,000 feet. Two boats and lunches 
for each one were waiting for us, ten getting 
in one while Tom and I were in the other. All 
enjoyed the lunch of sandwiches, fruit cake, 
two varieties of biscuits, orange, apple, and gin- 
ger ale, and particularly the 14 miles of water 
ride, arriving at Ross Castle the last Irish 
castle surrendered to Oliver Cromwell at 4.45, 
and then returned to the hotel by tally-ho coach 
at 5. 

Have just had dinner and I am feeling fine, 
not a bit sore or tired but some have a sore 
spot. 

We motor from here to-morrow to Corl^ 
through Glengarry, starting about 9 a.m. and 
arriving at 6 p.m. It is a beautiful country and 
we are hoping for a fair day. We have usually 
had good days when we really needed them. 

In the fields everywhere is to be seen the 
peat they burn. It has an awful odor and 
clothes smell so strongly of it. The little lace 
homes are located in what we would call an 
alley, but contain some very handsome work. 
The ladies of the party have made many pur- 
chases. 

We have a very nice room two beds, fire- 

52 



place, couch, writing table, three wash basins 
QO running water in any of the hotels. 



Hotel Imperial, Cork. 
September 23. 

The party are all off to Blarney Castle but 
Dollie and I. It is a beautiful day, very sun- 
shiny and clear. Dollie has stiffened up very 
much since Sunday. Biding the ponies made 
us very warm, and then when we got in 
the boat it was quite cool and a very heavy 
mist overtook us when half-way across and 
I think all chilled too quickly. I was very 
stiff last night and as I have a little cold 
thought a day in would do me more good, 
and I decided to remain with Dollie so E. D. 
could go with the party. 

So far we have not seen any poor people 
begging in Cork. Since leaving Dublin there 
has been a riot in the labor strike and some 
people killed. We escaped it nicely. 

We will go to Queentown in the morning 
and leave at 7.45 a.m. for our trip east, to reach 
London about 9 p.m. It will be a whole day's 
traveling. 

Rosslare, Ireland, 

Steamer St. David. 
Sept. 24, 1.20 p.m. 

I sent you a card from Queenstown just as 
the party was leaving on the tender for the Car- 
mania, and conditions were very unfavorable 

58 



at the time, rough sea and high wind. We 
started on our train ride at 7.45 a.m, Being up 
at 4 a.m. made a very long morning, and I have 
already had two lunches since breakfast. 

We arrived at Rosslare at 12.55, when we 
boarded this ship. We are just waiting to load 
the baggage, etc., and prospects look very good 
for fair sailing; in fact, I can't see anything 
at present to anticipate any seasickness. It 
will be quite late when we arrive in London and 
I am sure we will be ready for bed. This, no 
doubt, will be the longest day's travel we will 
have. Dollie was wishing we were returning 
with her; in fact she was quite lonesome over 
the fact of our traveling alone. 

The bells are ringing and whistles blowing 
the signal to be off, so I must get on deck to 
prop myself for the sail. Will write from Lon- 
don. Hope to get some mail. Didn't receive 
any in Cork. 



Hotel Cecil, Strand, London 
September 25. 

We are back again in London, and it seemed 
good, on arriving at 11.15 p.m., to see the im- 
mense crowds of well dressed people, the num- 
ber of taxis returning from the theatres on the 
beautifully illuminated streets. Such a change 
after the past few days in Ireland, for while 
the country is beautiful I can 't say I would like 
to remain very long. 

I really can't 'help thinking of the rough 
passage the McGrane party had to start with, 

54 



for after we left Rosslare and out a half -hour in 
the Irish Sea, I never saw such rough weather. 
The boat just pitched every way. But it didn't 
affect Tom at all. I had to give up my lunch, 
which only meant a matter of three minutes, 
otherwise I was fine too. We remained on the 
top deck in midslhip and were the only two who 
did, and the steward informed us we were bet- 
ter off than a great many. 

We were very late getting away from Fish- 
guard, making it two hours late in arriving in 
London, but we certainly traveled in some 
express, as she had the speed. 

I did not get any mail. Tom is waiting for 
me. We are going to breakfast. 



3 Rue de Castiglione 

Hotel Continental. 
Paris, Sept. 26. 

I am almost too tired to write. Have been 
up since 7.30 a.m., finished packing, had break- 
fast, and completed arrangements with Cook's 
before starting from London at 11 a.m. Had a 
compartment reserved for us, London to Dover, 
at 12.55; took Engadine to cross the English 
Channel, which was and I was very glad 
very calm ; had lunch and arrived at Calais at 
2.15, where all hand baggage had to be exam- 
ined. Ours was marked without any trouble. 
When we located our reservations we were com- 
fortably fixed up until we reached Paris at 6.30 
p.m. Cook's man met us, and then a search 

55 



for our trunks had to be made. But we had 
only to open one trunk, while in all other cases 
there were two men pulling through the things. 

A carriage was waiting for us and took us 
to the Continental. We had dinner at 8 p.m. 
and then drove to the Palace d'Orsay, where T 
got your large envelope of the 12th, one from 
Maudie, K. O'Neil, and Aunt Ellen; also a card 
from Maudie. 

We are going sightseeing to-morrow morn- 
ing at 9 a.m. We will have a private guide for 
four days, that is, a carriage and a guide for 
four full days. 

You no doubt have received a copy of our 
revised itinerary, also the photograph from 
Killarney. I am enclosing list of hotels on the 
return trip from Naples to London. Tom paid 
to Cook's 139 each, which covers all railway 
expenses, hotels, carriages, guides, tips to 
guides and fees to buildings, etc; in fact, it 
covers all. We have all the information in 
detail, and I feel quite sure we will have no 
trouble at all. Our names are forwarded and 
reservations made in the hotels, trains, etc., 
this being done on the two trains to-day. A 
label was pasted on the window with McCarron 
marked very plainly, so there can be no mis- 
takes. When the attendants cannot speak our 
language it is rather awkward. For instance, 
to-night when we went to the Palace d'Orsay 
Tom told the taxi driver to "take us back to 
the hotel," and while I insisted that he waa 
taking us a block or two out of the way he 
made a joke of it 'and thought I was getting 
too smart. 

56 



However, I was quite correct, and after 
reading the mail we found ourselves in the 
Grand instead of the Continental. We walked 
the few blocks to the hotel, and, really, I am 
too tired to write any more. Tom has just 
come upstairs, and he has been admiring the 
ladies' finery and diamonds instead of tihe 
traffic to-night. 

We have a very beautiful room, done up in 
gold-colored silk draperies, bathroom attached. 
Very fine. 



Paris, Sept. 27. 

I am taking a little rest until the guide 
comes at 2 p.m. He was with us from 10 to 
12.30, driving in a very swell landau, two beau- 
tiful horses and driver in livery. It is impos- 
sible for one to describe at any length the gran- 
deur of one's first visit to Paris or to attempt 
any more than an outline of our doings. 

Our first stopping place was the Cathedral 
of Notre Dame, the finest specimen of Gothic 
art in Paris, and the architecture and work of 
which is wonderful. I really don't believe the 
workmen could do it now ; anyway the expendi- 
ture of money is not given to the House of Wor- 
ship in these days. The front is ornamented 
with statues of the Kings of France, and in the 
centre is a large rose window 36 feet high. 
There are two square towers and the one on the 
right contains the largest bell of France. The 
interior is very beautiful and the wood carv- 
ing adorning the choir represents subjects of 

07 



the New Testament. A large part of the True 
Cross and one of the original nails are kept in 
the treasury in the sacristy. 

The Palace of Justice, which stands on the 
spot formerly occupied by the Roman Empire, 
was at one time the residence of some of the 
French Kings, but only part of the chapel and 
gallery are the remnants of the old palace. The 
Supreme Court, with its $70,000 worth of gold 
decorations, is to be very much admired. 

What remained of the morning we spent in 
the Louvre Museum, where we saw marvelous 
and numerous works of the great artists. 

Paris is a much cleaner city than London, 
and Tom would be quite contented to remain 
here until December. It is beautiful real sum- 
mer weather. 

I was glad to know you were going to the 
races. You might remember us to the Sander- 
son family. I sent them cards. 

Must be off ; they are waiting for mo. Have 
had a little sleep and feel like making a new 
start. 



Hotel Suisse. 
Sunday, Sept. 28. 

Had lunch here on our way to Versailles. 
Went to an early mass and were ready to leave 
Paris at 10 o'clock. So far it has been a beau- 
tiful drive, passing through the Bois de 
Boulogne, Longchamps race course, and many 
pretty little suburban towns. 



58 



September 28. 

We found the drive, 11 miles, to and from 
Versailles full of interest and two days could 
easily be devoted to just seeing the many lovely 
things, the chief of which are the Grand and 
Petit Trianons, the popular home of Marie 
Antoinette, the elegance of which, we have been 
told, practically ruined the French nation and 
helped, with many other affairs, to bring about 
the Revolution. They are perfectly wonderful, 
and it is foeyond me to even express the magnifi- 
cence of the gardens. The celebrated fountains 
which play from 4.30 to 5.30 on the first or 
fourth Sunday of each month during the sum- 
mer did not play to-day, and, needless to say, 
we were disappointed. 

Savoy Hotel Restaurant. 

Pontainebleau. 
September 29. 

Before leaving Paris at 8.45 a.m. for Pon- 
tainbleau I received your two letters and one 
each from Maudie and Emily. You evidently 
omitted the clippings re the G-aynor family. I 
sincerely hope no trouble has come to them. I 
have already sent cards to all, including Mrs. 
Mahoney and the girls, I have been writing so 
many I forget sometimes to whom I have 
directed them, as Tom often comes along just 
as I have started, to have some addressed for 
him, which really means a break in mine ; con- 
sequently some are overlooked unintentionally. 
Even now I forget whether I have acknowl- 

59 



edged the two letters received on Friday, al- 
though I think I have. Had a letter from Mrs. 
Martin on Saturday. 

We like Fontainebleau, a town of 14,200 in- 
habitants, about 37 miles from Paris, and its 
celebrated palace was for many years a Royal 
and Imperial residence, and appears to have 
been first mentioned by historians as far back 
as the XII century. The grand library, which 
contains 35,000 volumes, and used by the people 
of Pontainebleau, owes its existence to King 
Charles V, 1364, and it was not until the reign 
of Francis I (1515-47) that Fontainebleau be- 
came celebrated and acquired a definite place 
in the history of France. A great deal of credit 
is due this king, and the work of building it ex- 
tended over a period of years. 

Our time was really too short to grasp every- 
thing that was to be seen. The palace itself 
covers an area of 15 acres and is one of the most 
historical in the world and surpasses all in gran- 
deur and extravagance, and to the student of 
French history Fontainebleau must tower above 
all in fascination. In 1804, at the time of Napo- 
leon's coronation, the palace was completely 
restored and much new furniture placed in it 
in honor of Pope Pius VII, who came to France 
to 'crown him. Sentence of divorce was also 
pronounced in the palace against Empress 
Josephine. 

We had lunch here and it is a perfect- 
ly lovely hotel, and the menu consisted of 
heaps of good things to satisfy our hungry 
appetites. Our places were reserved, also the 
carriage at our arrival at the depot, and paid 

80 



for, so that we had no bother at all. It is really 
beyond me to try to explain what we have 
seen, but I will try and outline our doings so as 
to keep you posted. The clocks noticeable 
in all the apartments of the Chateau Fontaine- 
bleau, in fact, draperies, furnishings and paint- 
ings were superb, and one I noticed particu- 
larly was a model in gold of one of the foun- 
tains seen at Versailles. The candelabrafwere 
of rock crystal, the grandest imaginable. The 
throne room was draped in red and gold, with a 
large 'bee embroidered in gold on all the drap- 
eries overhanging the throne, and on the table- 
cover, too, was embroidered the eagle Napo- 
leon's emlblem, ''work and victory." 

Tom is here with the guide, so I can 't write 
any more. 



Hotel Continental. 
Paris, Sept. 30. 

After having lunch we started at 2 p.m. for 
a drive through the famous forest of Fontaine- 
bleau, covering some 14,600 acres, and is said 
to be the most beautiful of all the French for- 
ests. Some of the oak trees measure 26% feet 
in circumference. Much time has been spent 
in providing signs of direction and to point out 
the parts of interest to the tourist. 

It is a beautiful drive through the shaded 
arch of trees and was quite enjoyable, as we 
were fortunate enough to have a bright sun- 
shiny day; in fact, it is pleasant summer 
weather we have 'been having since coming to 
Paris. 

61 



At the palace we saw the room in which His 
Holiness Pope Pius VII was made prisoner for 
some time because he refused Napoleon the 
divorce of Josephine, and in another interesting 
room were seen the 128 plates used at the mar- 
riage feast of the Duke of Orleans, eldest son 
of King Louis Philippe, to Princess Helen, each 
costing $60 apiece. Everything is arranged so 
attractively and one could spend weeks admir- 
ing all. 

We finished the afternoon on our return to 
Paris about 5 or 5.30 with a drive on the Boule- 
vard or Rotten Row, and the number of car- 
riages, motors, taxis, etc., going in all directions, 
is wonderful. It is quite a sight and Tom is still 
more interested in the traffic. 

Did I tell you we visited the Gobelin carpet 
factory, the largest tapestry manufactory in 
Prance, and where all the fine tapestry is made 
for the Government, but not for sale. In the 
time of Louis XIV it was made a Government 
institution, having 'been bought from a small 
dyeing establishment, founded many years be- 
fore. It has developed largely and produces 
the finest in the world. We saw the men work- 
ing on some pieces, and only l 1 ^ inches can be 
accomplished in a day, so you can imagine how 
fine the work is. Some pieces are now two 
years in operation. The coloring scheme is the 
secret of one family, and not even the president 
or managers are allowed in the dyeing rooms, 
so we were told. 

After dinner and a little walk we retired 
early, as we were both tired with the day's 
outing. 

62 



October 1, 2.30 p.m. 

We were just ready to go out, but have 
been prevented by heavy rain. Tt had been 
threatening for an hour or more. 

However, we strolled out about 10 a.m. to 
see some of the pet shops along with other 
things, and the diamonds, I said to Tom, gave 
me a headache ; you see such quantities of them 
in all the jewelry shop windows. 

When nearing the Church of St. Mary Mag- 
dalene, which faces one of the principal boule- 
vards, we noticed the entrance all draped in 
black and white, and on entering we found 
the immense church crowded to the door, and 
the respect and mourning shown to the deceased 
was wonderful. The alcove at the. back of the 
altar (I think that is what it is called) and 
down the sides in front of the large supporting 
pillars, were draped in heavy black draperies 
and silver trimming, made purposely for these 
places. The chairs were also draped, as well 
as the railing down the side of the pews to 
prevent the people from stepping into the aisle. 
At the sanctuary railing was a large affair, 
8 ft. x 6 ft. and 7 ft. high of black or ebony 
color, on which rested the casket, surrounded 
by large silver candelabras, one at each corner, 
with candles of various sizes. Huge bunches 
of red and white roses had also been placed in 
position. 

On our arrival mass was over and the 
mourners, the widow and daughters, veiled in 
the heaviest of crepe veils and large capes, 
with, the other relatives, were standing about 

63 



half-way down the aisles, and the great throng 
of sympathizers walked slowly up the side to 
the solemn music of the organ to the casket and 
passed down the centre to pay their sympathy 
to the sorrowing family. At the entrance were 
two large heavily draped tables, one on each 
side, with large sheets of paper with deep 
mourning bands or edges for the registration of 
names. Tom put down his name and address 
in full. He is not going to miss much. By ask- 
ing questions he found out he was a big saloon- 
keeper, immensely rich, and the president of 
some very strong society. If he had been the 
King of the Empire I don't think he could have 
had any more respect shown him, and, judg- 
ing from the tears and sorrow of the men, they 
lost a very dear companion. The oak casket was 
veiled in black, and a guard, followed by two 
others, led the six men in uniform who carried 
the casket. 

On Sunday we saw another funeral, of a 
grandmother, and the six men carried the cas- 
ket on their shoulders, and they wore shiny 
topped hats not silk. 

There is a very heavy thunderstorm pass- 
ing over, and I was just reading that on Mon- 
day fourteen people were killed from one on 
the southern coast and over the Mediterranean. 

We were expecting to meet R. E. D. here, 
but up to the present have not had any word 
from him. 



4 



Oct. 1, 8.45 p.m. 

On going upstairs after dinner I found 
your letter of the 20th and paper containing 
clippings, and needless to say enjoyed all. They 
are very attentive here, as the mail is delivered 
to the room as soon as it arrives. 

I am real sorry to know Jennie cannot ar- 
range to come, and I think Dollie will 'be dis- 
appointed too. However, get Mrs. Lucas to 
arrange things properly. Hang the drapes, etc., 
as I am particularly anxious that everything 
should be right. 

It cleared up nicely about 3 p.m. and we 
were able to get out. Of course, there is plenty 
to be seen in the hotel to amuse one for some 
time. We went up as far as 74 Rue Bonaparte, 
a religious house, Biars, Prere & Cie., opposite 
St. Sulpice Church, for a gold pyx case for 
Mrs. Oliver for a present on Michael's ordina- 
tion. We will .have it blessed by the Pope at our 
audience. Dollie got a very handsome and 
more expensive one for Rev. M. Whalen, and 
Bishop Tihen received one from Dollie and Mrs. 
Shaw. 

I really have nothing more to write about 
to-night. Am delighted to know father and 
Puppins are such good pals. I am afraid he 
won't want to give him up, and you will both 
know what an attentive little fellow he is. 

A 



65 



October 4. 

Yesterday we finished with the guide and 
have been out all morning on our own guidance. 

We visited the market, a wonderful place, 
covering a great many acres; quite a sight to 
see so many women working at the different 
varieties of fish, vegetables, fruit, etc., making 
them ready for sale. One specially interesting 
is the horse and dog market. 

From what we -can see the women are very 
much needed in Paris, or their services are 
much in demand, as they are employed in all 
kinds of labor, even cleaning the streets, driv- 
ing taxis and carriages for hire. 

And speaking of the means of transit, in 
Paris, practically all the cabs, motors, and other 
vehicles have a taximeter. The first 1,300 
yards costs 75 centimes (15 cents). When a 
machine is kept waiting outside a shop or 
house, etc., the taximeter registers 10 centimes 
(2 cents) for every three minutes. Between 
midnight and 6 a.m. there is a supplementary 
charge. 

We also visited Chapelle of the Invalides, a 
monument built during the reign of Louis XIV 
as an asylum for old soldiers wounded and dis- 
abled in war, and contains the Church of St. 
Louis * ' Napoleon 's tomb. ' ' 

There were at the time of the Eevolution 
some 2,500 or more wounded and crippled sol- 
diers in the home, and now there are only IS 
veterans living, and when speaking to one of 
the guides at the tomb we learned that he was 
82 years. Part of the building is now used as a 

ee 






museum for old curiosities, regimental outfits, 
etc. 

It is marvelous the respect shown to his 
memory by the French people. It was his 
last desire to be brought from St. Helena, 
where he died in exile, to be buried in France 
with the people he loved, they decided on the 
Church of St. Louis, a grand and magnificent 
structure, had it excavated in a large 'circular 
hole, lined with marble, and the floor of Roman 
mosaic, showing the names of the victories of 
Napoleon, and on pedestals between statues of 
guardian angels 60 banners or pennants are 
shown, and upon two immense pieces of green 
marble or granite rest his remains, laid in a 
lead casket, inside of an oak, and then ebony. 
I thought General Grant's tomb in New York 
very beautiful, but it is not to be compared 
with this. A large altar remains as it was in 
years gone by, 'but no services are held now, but 
just a place for all visitors to the tomlb of 
Napoleon. 

"We have seen now practically all the places 
of interest, and with its numerous attractions it 
would take years to fully appreciate all. The 
Louvre is really very wonderful and important 
and contains the masterpieces of the Italian art 
by Raphael, Giotto, and Murillo's famous 
" Immaculate Conception." The collection of 
ancient sculptures is also very wonderful. 

Museum de Cluny, a Roman palace, built in 
the first years of the 4th century, contains a 
valuable collection of relics of the Middle Ages. 

The Pantheon is a beautiful edifice built in 
the form of a Greek cross, and over the tomb of 

C7 



St. Gene vie ve, the patron saint of Paris. The 
interior is decorated with frescoes ' ' The Child 
hood of St. Genevieve." The promenades, 
Metropolitan Opera House, Eiffel Tower, Cham- 
ber of Deputies, Triumphal Arch, Cemeteries, 
Palace and Garden of Luxembourg, and many 
others have been seen, and now we are doing 
a little sightseeing in the stores. 

We are still favored with beautiful weather, 
but I notice that the Olympic has had a rough 
passage, so would judge Dollie and party ex- 
perienced rough weather on the Carmania. 

Had a card from Ella Mahoney to-day. 

We may go to Lourdes, but I am not just 
sure about it. Tom wants to see some of the 
races. I hope you are keeping well, as we are 
both fine. 



October 4. 

While writing a few notes to my diary your 
letter and one from J. Oliver came to the room, 
and I had just been counting up, thinking it 
was near time one should be due. Real glad 
to know you are both so well and enjoying 
yourselves. 

Jack said, "Frank Foy is dead." Does he 
mean Fred? If so, whatever happened? I 
knew he had not been very well for a while. 

We went to see the "Quaker Girl" at the 
Olympia last evening, but being all in French 
it was not very interesting to Tom, al- 
though I remembered it quite well from seeing 
it in Chicago in June, 1912. Between the acts 

68 



it was quite a sight to see the ladies in evening 
dress standing or promenading just for the at- 
traction of the men. I am quite sure if I did 
not have a strong hold on Tom they would 
have him away. On entering the theatre Tom 
presented the interpreter in livery the slip he 
had received at the hotel for the tickets, and 
when passing through, because Tom did not tip 
him, he said very loudly and plainly: " Thank 
you, sir. ' ' And then when we were seated, the 
female usher muttered something in French, 
and then another wrote on paper: "A tip, 
please." Everyone wants something. Even 
the programmes have to be paid for. And when 
Tom went to the rest room, a woman at the door 
said "tip, please," before he could get out. - 

We have been getting the New York Paris 
H'erald every day and find it very interesting, 
and it even gave us the news of Mr. O'Keefe's 
death, and if you will notice we have not been 
overlooked in the list of Canadians in Paris at 
the Continental. I presume Dollie and Martin 
would be home in time for the funeral. 

This is a much nicer hotel than the Palace 
d'Orsay and more central, and it was on the 
recommendation of Rev. Father Kennedy, a 
Paulist Father, of New York, whom we met in 
London, that we came here. 



69 



October 6. 

Had a nice letter from Em this a.m. and 
one from Lazzie to-night. 

Well, we went to the races yesterday at 
Longehamps, one of the Sunday favorite plea- 
sures, and again to-day at St. Cloud, a short 
distance out on the train, and I was fairly 
stunned with the style at Longchamps, and, 
needless to say, we were lucky enough to win 
our expenses. I picked winners for Tom, and 
even the winner of the Grand Prix, which was 
run to-day. 

I wrote Emily, Mrs. Oliver and Nick, and 
as you will probably see them, it will save me 
doing any more to-night, as I am a little tired, 
and I want to get the trunks ready for to- 
morrow. 

Received the papers just now. Thanks so 
much, as Tom appreciates them. 



October 7. 

This is our last day in Paris until December, 
when we stop over for a day or two on our re- 
turn. We are leaving in the morning for Brus- 
sels, Belgium. 

Our day at Longchamps was very enjoyable 
and the drive from 'the hotel through the park 
was very pleasant and the crowds of people 
everywhere remarkable. It cost 6 francs for 
taxi, almost equal to $1.25, and 20 francs and 
10 francs admission. But there is no distinction 
in the enclosure or lawn if you have the price. 
A very good way. So far we have experienced 

70 



no difficulty with the French money ; in fact, it 
is much simpler than the English currency, 
with their blooming shillings and pence. The 
big event was run off on Sunday and won by 
"Nimbus," a great surprise to many, as the 
favorite was only "an also ran," and had de- 
feated the other horses on three occasions. 
Strange to say, I picked three winners, and we 
won on one 10 1. Tom met Jockey Mclntyre, 
who rode for Seagram, the Canadian horseman, 
and he pointed out a great many of the leading 
turf men, including Mr. Blanc, who paid $150,- 
000 last year for Silver Fox some price. 

In the shop adjoining the hotel they get very 
high prices for the dogs. There is a little boy 
here from Brazil stopping in the hotel who has 
a brown Pomeranian, called Dollie, for which 
his father paid $60. Tom's roughness to Pup- 
pins is only put on, as he has all the toy dog 
shops picked out and he seems very much in- 
terested in them. 

I am going to lunch now, so if it clears 
enough to go to the St. Cloud race track I will 
be ready in time for Tom. It is now 12.30 noon. 

We met Mr. Thompson, of Toronto, and 
spent an evening with him, and he is to call 
the house number. 



Grand Hotel, Brussels. 
October 9. 

We arrived here last evening at 5 p.m. and 
found a carriage waiting at the depot for us; 
also our accommodation and places in the din- 
ing room on reservation. 

71 



We left Paris at 12.35 on a very nice but 
fast train, only making one stop, and that was 
at the border line between France and Belgium, 
where all baggage had to be ransacked, but 
with us we did not have to bother, so evidently 
we are not suspected as crooks; anyway our 
word passed as good. 

A gentleman we met at the Continental, a 
big hotelkeeper from California, who was mak- 
ing a tour of the world with his wife, on being 
asked, said "No, he had nothing dutiable," 
and they immediately made a search and all 
his cigars were confiscated. Another man, who 
was taking a little dog across from Paris into 
England, valued at 100, stumbled in some 
way at the border and the little dog fell 
out of the hiding place in his coat, and the 
man was at once taken by the police and sent 
for trial. So you see one must be careful in 
some things. 

All along the way we noticed how very dif- 
ferent the farming country is from England 
and Ireland. They have not the pretty hedges 
dividing the farms ; in fact, they have no fences. 

A letter from Mrs. Martin, mailed from At- 
lantic 'City, was waiting for us, and on waking 
this morning there were four letters and a card 
at the door, mailed from the steamer Carmania, 
written by Dollie, E. D., Mrs. Shaw, E. McC. 
and Dr. Buckley. We were real glad to have 
them and to hear of their safe trip over. 

We are quite comfortably fixed up here, a 
large room on second floor, convenient to lift, 
twin brass beds, writing table, fireplace, ward- 
robe, immense bath and all conveniences, and 

72 



two very large windows giving plenty of day- 
light and air. 

Our first day with the guide was very much 
enjoyed, and we both like Mr. McLellan a great 
deal better than the Parisian. He is naturally 
a Scotchman and, of course, speaks the English 
language with a nice accent. In Paris the 
guide could not, as a rule, pronounce the "th," 
which made it rather awkward to grasp the 
foreign words at once. 

As usual, the carriage and he were on hand 
to make an early start, and we commenced with 
the Town Hall, the law courts, the largest of 
the kind in the world, an immense place, and 
beautifully laid out with good dimensions, 
splendid staircase. The architect who planned 
the work went mad with the heavy strain, and 
he died before it was completed. It took 17 
years and cost $12,000,000. It is really the only 
and finest 'building erected since the Belgians 
gained their independente, in 1830, and so much 
time and money has been spent on it It covers 
ground measuring, I think it is, 615 x 635 feet, 
and 297 feet high. 

All kinds of justice is handed out here, and 
even the death sentence. No prisoner is 
hanged, but placed in solitary confinement with 
no chance of reprieve. Kis name is actually 
struck off the civilization list and considered 
dead. He is allowed one hour's exercise a day, 
but no reading matter. Next we drove to the 
Park of Bois de la Cambre, around which are 
32 statues representing the different trades of 
industry. Then to the Pillar of Congress, a 
visible symbol of Belgium's independence; Par- 

78 



liament Buildings, Hospital of St. Jean, the 
front of which is covered with marble slabs 
with the name in gold of the donators who con- 
tributed generously to its maintenance. Each 
one can be read quite distinctly from the street. 
To the Botanical Gardens and St Gudule's, the 
oldest church in Brussels, which dates back to 
the 12th century. It has many richly painted 
windows, and the pulpit, a most wonderful 
piece of carving, is considered the masterpiece 
of Verbruggeni. St. Michael is shown a great 
deal in the buildings with the dragon, and at 
the foot of the gtfand staircase in the Town Hall 
there is a fountain decorated with a statue of 
the Saint. And the candelabra in the Marriage 
Hall represents the archangel, the protector of 
the city. 

Had lunch at 1 p.m. Resumed our drive at 
2.15, and commenced with viewing the art gal- 
leries, which, of course, do not compare with 
the French or even English in my humble 
opinion, at least, there is not the selection or 
quantity, but the sculpture, if I am any judge, 
seemed equally as good, if not better. One ar- 
tist (Whertz), who loved and just painted for 
the love of the art, and who was never known 
to sell a picture, has left to his memory one 
of the finest collections in Brussels, and as he 
was overburdened with poverty the city gave 
him a permanent horn- and studio, with the 
understanding that at his death his work should 
be the property of the city of Brussels. 

"We finished by driving through the streets 
of the nobility, and then to the homes of the 
newly-rich business men, who have made their 

74 



money and are now spending it in the erection 
of up-to-date homes. There is one we went par- 
ticularly to see, and it is one of the attractions 
of the locality. It is built of slabs of white 
marble, with Egyptian figures arranged at var- 
ious distances at the top. It is the oddest thing 
you would ever see, and I don't suppose there 
is another such home in the world. But with 
all the greenery and boxwood plants it is very 
effective. 

After dinner we took a little stroll. Of 
course, Tom interviewed some English-speak- 
ing people and saw that the traffic was all right 
before coming upstairs. 

We are to be up early to start for Waterloo 
to-morrow at 9 a.m. I am enclosing a card for 
Margaret. You might read this to Ollie and 
Lizzie. 



October 10. 

Have a few minutes before the guide comes. 
We are having a beautiful day to begin with 
and should enjoy the drive. 

The market is right near the hotel on the 
next street, and the women have been busy 
picking and arranging the fowl. Everything 
looks so nice, white paper having been put on 
the counters where the goods are for sale. 

The Belgian people are very progressive in 
the way of starting business early. One big 
store on the main street, opposite the hotel, 
the Grand Bazaar, closes from 12 to 2 to allow 

75 



salespeople and other assistants to have lunch 
and fresh air, and they do business from 8 a.m. 
to 7 p.m. 

Speaking of the city, we find it very clean, 
and just where the hotel stands the river has 
been tunneled over. In years past an epidemic 
of fever broke out, and all buildings, including 
dwellings, were pulled down on account of 
unsanitary conditions and modern six-storey 
up-to-date buildings take their place. 

Brussels is really built on a marsh, the 
houses extending up the bank as the city 
grew, and now, when driving around, would 
remind you of a switchback. Great honor is us- 
ually given to the architect, and when any good 
work has been done a bust or piece of sculpture 
is placed to his memory. And the Burgomaster 
the mayor holds his position for life, and 
receives $8,000 a year for his professional ser- 
vices, as they consider it such. 

Women and dogs are also very necessary. 
They are seen doing the work of the farm, gar- 
den, selling papers, flowers, etc., and they are 
the busiest people around the market. Large 
dogs of a Collie breed are hitched to a two- 
wheeled cart and draw heavy loads to market. 
In some cases there are three, and a fourth for 
relief. A piece of carpet is also laid under 
them. 

Only a few carpets which pass under this 
name are made here, but its lace is particularly 
Famous. 



76 



October 10. 

On coming from dinner, your note with clip- 
pings was handed to us. Sorry you had a head- 
ache. Hope you are all right again. Tom does 
not feel any too well, consequently we are in 
our room this evening. He put away his usual 
good lunch and dinner, and is able to smoke 
his pipe, so I have little fear of anything very 
serious being the trouble. 

Well, we had one grand day for our trip or 
drive to Waterloo, through a beautiful forest 
or park, 16 miles, and with the tint of autumn 
on the trees it was very fine, with just enough 
freshness in the air to make it invigorating. 

Our first stop was at the half-way house 
for refreshments. Then at 11 a.m. a visit to the 
house in which the Duke of Wellington slept 
the night before and the night of the battle. 
His bed still remains, also the chair and the 
table on which he wrote his despatches of vic- 
tory ; as well as a great collection of other per- 
sonal military accoutrement. In the church are 
tablets of marble erected to the memory of the 
different regiments and generals. 

At 12 noon we were at Hougoumont, the 
place of the first attack, and where still re- 
main the old farmhouse, the gate, part of a 
chapel, and the old brick wall, all of which 
show many bullet holes. Many of the trees, rot- 
ten or decayed with age, have hundreds of 
shots buried in them. 

In each place we registered our names in the 
visitors ' book. 

When in the sacred orchard, made so by the 

77 



10,000 soldiers buried there in the trenches, 
a farm man came up behind and offered me a 
bouquet of pansies, and not knowing he was 
there he gave me quite a fright. Tom and Mr. 
McClelland thought it a big joke. Even the 
old well, which was used as a burying place for 
many, is in good preservation, and has a railing 
around it for protection. Some old man, very 
true and staunch to the army he loved, who 
died some few years ago, wished to be buried in 
this orchard, and he has the distinction of a 
little grey stone. 

Our next move was to lunch, and at 2 p.m. 
we ascended 226 steps to the mound or pyramid 
erected in memory of the battle, and was 
principally done by the women, who car- 
ried the dirt in baskets on their shoulders. 
There is a huge brick shaft in the centre 
150 feet high, and at the top is a stone 
base with an immense lion with his paw on 
the globe. Our guide then gave us an excellent 
description of the movements of the regiments 
and the generals, and, in fact, he had the whole 
story on his finger tips from A to Z. He really 
takes a particular pride in Waterloo, being here 
when only a small boy, and having come with 
an old soldier, who always celebrated the anni- 
versary the 18th of June at the battlefield. 

It was really a grand sight to even view 
the surrounding country, and as it was so clear 
we could see quite distinctly the tower of the 
law courts in Brussels. 

On our descending we went into Panorama, 
which gave us the battle on canvas, and it, too, 
was very fine, excepting that it depicts very 

78 



impressively the horrors of war. Even on the 
ground in front of the canvas were horses, 
bodies of men (figures, of course) showing 
pools of blood, helmets, rifles or guns lying 
around; in fact, anything you might see on a 
battlefield. It was quite a contrast to hear and 
see the victory of the British after having 
heard so much of Napoleon, and the honor and 
reverence given him by the French. 

9o you can see we have had both an inter- 
esting and exciting day. Just as we were ready 
to start we had a rear-end bunt from a street- 
car, and then there was a funny squabble be- 
tween the motorman and the carriage driver 
in the Flemish language. No damage was done 
to us. 

All along in the country women are seen 
doing all kinds of work. In one place we saw 
two women and one man pulling something that 
to me looked like a plough. They drive with 
one rein; carry the water in two pails, one on 
each end of a bar across the shoulders. I really 
don't see how they could get along without 
them and the dogs that assist a gre'at deal. 

Tom is now sound asleep and it is only 9 
p.m., but I have told you all, so will retire. We 
will have another early start in the morning, 
going to Ostend on the 9.15 train. 



Cologne, Germany, Dom. Hotel. 
Sunday, Oct. 12. 

We arrived here at 4.25 p.m., and as soon as 
we stepped on the platform a big man from 
Cook's touched me on the arm and said "Mr. 
MJcC'arron and lady." He immediately had 
our baggage looked after and put on the bus 
with us. The hotel is just opposite the station 
and we have a very nice room on the second 
floor, with bath, writing table, reading lamp, a 
balcony (table and two chairs) overlooking a 
very green patch with artistic flower beds. 

We did not go to Ostend for the reason that 
Mr. McClelland thought everything would be 
very much closed at this late season, so we went 
to church, and got the 10.54 train out of Brus- 
sels. All along we rode in a very level coun- 
try until we reached Liege, where the dining 
car from the Paris train was connected, and 
after crossing the German border we had lunch. 

We are just waiting for dinner now. After 
having a little wash we went out for a while, 
but somehow Tom does not feel himself. He 
is eating well enough, but taking too much cof- 
fee, I think. However, he is still looking after 
the traffic, and enjoys it. 

I really haven't anything new to tell you 
just now. I presume you have already seen 
the awful disaster at mid-ocean, and the Car- 
mania was one of the first steamers to offer 
assistance and send messages. It was lucky 
for the McGrane party that they had landed. 

I fully expected to have the letters sent to 



Edinburgh waiting here for me, but they have 
not come. 

Hope I may hear from you soon. With love 
to all. 



Oct. 13, 7.20 p.m. 

We have had a very busy day sightseeing, 
and finished with a good inner a half-hour 
ago; in fact, we had to decline one course of 
roast duck, being filled with other good things, 
and only had capacity for ice cream and fruit 
to finish. 

We started sharp at 9 a.m., and had a fine 
little German, who had six years in London, 
could speak English finely, and was most atten- 
tive. The carriage, with its beautiful grey 
horse, was most comfortable and had a good 
appearance. 

Went into the museum and viewed the pic- 
tures, some of which were excellent ; sculptures 
and different curios found at various times 
since the prosperity of the Romans, who at 
one time ruled this country, such as drinking 
glasses, coins, and jugs buried at the time of 
death. To explain this, I mean that different 
presents were put in the casket and buried with 
the remains, and now for a long time at dif- 
ferent excavations such things are being 
dug up. 

The city itself is very nice, being the most 
important on the Rhine, and we like it a great 
deal better than Brussels, the little Paris of 
Belgium, with its noise and drinking saloons on 

81 



the streets. Here you see nothing like that; in 
fact, Cologne is called the Rome of Germany, 
and is renowned for its churches and church 
treasures. 

The churches, both the interior and ex- 
terior, are wonderful productions of fine work 
and architecture, and the brains and genius 
of the llth, 12th, 13th and 14th centuries were 
marvelous, and, as the guide said, "it is par- 
ticular," meaning it was important to notice. 

The mother of Nero was born in Cologne, so 
that historical records date back many cen- 
turies, and in the time of Emperor Constantine 
a bridge was built over the Rhine at this point, 
and his mother, St. Helen, founded the Church 
of St. Geron, where now are kept the skulls of 
the many martyrs whose blood saturated the 
soil of Cologne. St. Ursula, with her heroic vir- 
gins, is also given the greatest of reverence, and 
every tourist makes a visit to these two 
churches. 

And the Cathedral, it is beyond mo to give 
any idea of its magnificence. The ground floor 
displays clearly a Latin cross, with high altar, 
choir, chapel of the Blessed Sacrament, St. 
Engelbert, St. John, Our Lady, St. Agnes, St. 
Maternus' (the first Bishop of Cologne), St. 
Michael, and St. Stephen. The statuary decor- 
ations everywhere are wonderful. The canopy 
over the centre door is- carved to represent 
"Christ, our Lord seated as judge of the world 
with the Book of Life in His hands. ' ' 

The treasury is filled with specimens of 
every period of ecclesiastical goldsmiths' work, 
and guards of honor are kept on duty all the 

82 



time, and had we not the guide I don't believe 
we would have been allowed to enter. 

After lunch we drove along the Rhine, saw 
the new bridge, the different monuments, what 
remains of the old gates and piece of Roman 
wall which surrounds the city. It is now 800 
years old, and will likely stand another 800, ten 
feet in thickness, and certainly was intended 
as a strong protection. 

Went to another museum, where we saw a 
great collection of art furniture and ecclesias- 
tical pieces, such as vestments, etc., dating back 
to the 13th and 14th century. Tom did not leave 
the carriage, but remained outside to listen 
to a regimental band serenading an officer in 
front of his house. I don't know why it is he 
does not feel any too good. He complains of 
being chilly and weak. He can eat well enough. 
He has taken asperin and a hot bath, so I am in 
the room again to-night while he is in bed. I 
am thankful to say I am fine myself ; never felt 
better. 

We drove through the swell boulevards to 
see the very handsome homes, and finished 
with a drive through the botanical gardens and 
the shopping district. Some of the departmen- 
tal stores are very good, and a new one just 
opened was particularly interesting and at- 
tractive. 

It is now 9 p.m., and the bells all around are 
ringing. The chimes of the Cathedral com- 
menced at early morn and at 6 a.m. rang long 
enough to disturb the whole of Europe. I am 
hoping they will have us up early in the morn- 

83 



ing, as we leave at 8.08 for Coblenz, where we 
take the boat down the Rhine. 

I think I have told you all for to-day. Had 
a very nice letter from E. MeCarron on arrival 
here. Must send her an acknowledgement. 
With fondest love to all. 



Hotel Metropole, Wiesbaden. 
Wednesday, Oct. 15. 

I think the Germans feel like sousing us 
to-day as it is raining and looks like a day of 
it. They don't have Showers, it is usually a 
whole day affair, and if I remember rightly 
Dollie told me they had over three weeks of 
rain. 

Well, we were up at 4.45 a.m, yesterday, 
having taken an earlier train than we expected, 
through the cancellation of some of the boat 
service at this late season. At 6.17 a m. we said 
good-bye to Cologne in the dark, and were some 
miles in the railroad yard before the day be- 
gan to break. It was remarkable to notice at 
that early hour the number of people who came 
off the incoming trains, including a whole regi- 
ment of soldiers.. However, the sun soon came 
out in full force, but now that the first white 
frost has been seen I expect there will be a 
change in the weather. We arrived at Coblenz 
at 8.27, drove to the boat, and were ready to 
sail at 10.15 on the Rhine. 

Coblenz has a splendid situation, at the 
junction of the Moselle River and Rhine, and 
contains 55,000 inhabitants and many objects of 

84 



interest. Our time, of course, was very lim- 
ited, but we were fortunate enough to see the 
impressive monument of the Kaiser, Emperor 
William, and the Moselle Bridge, built in the 
14th century. The hotel at the dock is excep- 
tionally nice, and the tourist who has the time 
can find innumerable places of interest and 
beauty to visit from there. 

Tom was beginning to feel better, and re- 
mained in the dining cabin all day, where it 
was very nice and warm with the sun shining 
on the windows. 

All the passengers were upstairs in the 
front, and on our departure I went up for a 
while, and seeing a vacant seat I took it. Im- 
mediately a young lady and woman began 
something in German, and the young man who 
had occupied the seat came along, tipped his 
hat, and murmured something which, I pre- 
sume, meant I had his seat. But not intending 
to stay very long, I said, "I don't under- 
stand you," and remained until I was satisfied. 
It was funny to see them all casting their eyes 
on me and stay " English." 

We had an exceptionally good day for our 
trip on the Rhine, and with the sunlight on the 
colored foliage it was very much more to be 
admired than in the heart of the summer. Al- 
most all the way there is an uninterrupted suc- 
cession of picturesque castles, some complete 
and inhabited, while others consisted of fallen 
ruins, grey with age, overgrown with green 
vines, and over which legend and history have 
cast a spell. 

Castle Rheinstein belongs to Prince Henry 

85 



of Prussia, and is, we were told, the most pic- 
turesque. It is open for inspection, and re- 
freshments are served on request of the 
tourists. 

The Niederwald Monument, a very fine speci- 
men of work, was erected in the 18th century, 
to commemorate the uprising of the German 
people. 

Everywhere the people were busy plucking 
the grapes, and we could see miles and miles of 
grape vines, and at lunch enjoyed the Rhine 
wine. 

We met Mr. and Mrs. Jones, from New Zea- 
land, who had spent three months in Canada 
last year, the greater part of which was in 
Toronto, making the Queen's Hotel their home. 
They have been around the world, and are the 
third couple we have met making this trip. 

5.20 p.m. we arrived at Beibrich and took 
the trolley into Wiesbaden and were in our 
room at 6.15 p.m. 

Accommodation is very fine, and our chairs 
and room were reserved on arrival. 

When we started out this morning it was 
fine enough, but it has been raining since 10 
a.m. We visited the principal places, including 
parliament buildings, museum, bath house. 
Tried to drink the mineral water hot from the 
spring, but a little afraid it might not agree 
with me; only tasted it; in fact it was? so hot, 
would have to wait until it cooled. 

The Kursaal Concert Hall is very beautiful, 
contains card room, restaurant, billiards, and 
reading room, and the garden surrounding is 
equally as nice for outdoor band concerts. 

86 



From what we can see the Germans are very 
good to themselves, have beautiful homes, and 
seem wealthy. 

I had a long letter from Maudie on arrival. 
She tells me she has only had one stingy letter. 
I hope you are telling her what we are doing. 
I am not writing letters to all. Hope you are 
well. Expect, or at least hope, we will hear 
from you in Frankfort. We go there to-mor- 
row. It is time for lunch now. Tom is feeling 
better to-day. 



Thursday, Oct. 16. 

We are ready to bid adieu to Wiesbaden and 
are waiting for train time to go to Frankfort. 
It is beautiful and considerably warmer than 
yesterday. The rain in the morning put a 
dampness through everything, and while it 
only rained a little the sun did not come out 
at All. 

Wiesbaden being practically a health re- 
sort, a great many afflicted people are here to 
take the Kochbrunen the baths of hot mineral 
water. 

The accommodations for these are wonder- 
ful. On our rounds we called at the largest, 
and it being the hour for men Tom was taken 
right in to see the baths. 

There is also considerable wealth here, judg- 
ing from the beautiful residences and surround- 
ings. We have been told that people in retired 
circumstances come to live here because income 



tax and other rates are very low, compared to 
other German cities. In Brussels if one has 
been a citizen for so many years the corpora- 
tion or city pays the party so much percentage. 
The property is nearly all owned by the muni- 
cipality, 

Wiesbaden is also very clean and the laws 
very strict. For instance, a girl or woman is 
not allowed on the street or elsewhere to sell 
flowers or other things, such as you see so com 
monly in Paris, London, and other places, at 
eleven o'clock, when the theatres are coming 
out. 

The carriage ; in fact, the whole turnout we 
had yesterday was practically new, and the 
carriage rug of white caracul was very nice, 
but the guide was no good. He was young and 
bashful, and he was no help in the way of ex- 
plaining, except to interpret the language 
for us. 

This is a great grape or wine producing 
country, but the crop is a failure this year, as 
well as last. The Rhine wine, as they call it. 
is equally as good as some French wines, but it 
has not the circulation or name. There is a big 
champagne distillery at Biebrich, and the head 
waiter was trying to convince Tom that it is 
worth while making a visit to see it. I don't 
know whether he is going or not. He is out 
just now. He is beginning to feel fine again. 
[ am splendid myself. Hope you are. 



Carlton Hotel, Frankfort. 
October 16, 

Just as we were having- lunch in Wiesbaden 
before taking our train your letter and one 
from Dollie and E. McC. arrived, all of which 
we were glad to have, and particularly yours, 
as it was very newsy. 

Perhaps you will notice we are traveling a 
day ahead of our schedule since leaving Brus- 
sels. We left there one day earlier, and where 
we can do this we might as well, and then we 
will have more time in Paris or London. 

We arrived here and were fixed up at 4 p.m. 
Cook's man met us when getting off the train. 
The hotel is just across the square, opposite the 
station, same as in Cologne. It is beautiful, 
and we have a very nice room on the second 
floor, opposite elevator, and overlooking the 
square in the front. 

We strolled out for a little while, but as it 
is now 6 p.m. we are waiting for dinner. The 
head waiter at the Metropole, in Wiesbaden, 
gave me a note in German to the head one here 
to give us good attention. 

We liked the meals in Wiesbaden very 
much, and could vary from the table d'hote 
without extra charge. For instan^g, we^QOuld 
have nice sliced tomatoes instead of boiled 
celery. I liked the beer we had there, too. 

I had a nice long letter from Mrs Williams, 
of Winnipeg, on our arrival, and I was greatly 
surprised to know she is only weighing 128 in- 
stead of 150. 

89 



I was weighed yesterday and I tip the scales 
at 142, so I am not losing any. 

Hope George Orr is better. His vacations 
don't seem to improve him much. 

In Dollie's letter she said she was not very 
well the first night. I guess she was lonesome, 
not going to the corner, which naturally had 
its dear and sorrowful reminiscences for her. 
It will seem strange and quiet for a while, and 
now that the evenings come on earlier it will 
make a big change. 

It was quite nice of Mrs. Oliver to invite you 
to such a nice dinner. I sincerely hope she and 
the boys are real well. 

We are going to dine now, and then to the 
theatre a vaudeville show. 

"Will write you again to-morrow after our 
day of sightseeing. With love to all. Thank 
Lizzie for her kindness in helping. Tom is feel- 
ing better. 



October 17. 

We have just finished with the guide, and 
I will try and tell you what we have seen. 

Frankfort is one of the finest German cities 
KMtoMMt, has a population of 350,000, and 
is very rich, in parts very ancient, and many 
houses of the 15th century are still to be seen. 
The streets, too, are very narrow, not even 
room for a horse and wagon to pass through. 

At the City Hall, built in the early cen- 
turies, we spent some little time, and on enter- 

90 



ing we had to put on soft slippers over our 
boots to avoid scratching the floors or bringing 
in any dust. Paintings of all the Kings or Em- 
perors of the Roman time are to be seen ; also 
the election hall. From here we strolled 
through the very ancient part to the Cathedral, 
the oldest in the city, founded in 870. rather 
large, but not to be compared with some we 
have seen. It was just being decorated and the 
smell of glue was terrible. 

We continued our drive through the 
main business thoroughfares, which, by the 
way, are extra wide and clean, and through 
the narrow street of the Jewish quarter, which 
at one time was locked in the evening and 
opened again in the morning, for what reason 
I don't know. On this street is the home and 
birthplace of the original Rothschild the mil- 
lionaire people. On account of the Jewish cele- 
bration, which has been going on for several 
days, we were not permitted to enter. It would 
have been interesting, as it is still in its original 
state of preservation. 

We next visited the home of Goethe, the 
author, of the 17th century, found his kitchen 
particularly interesting to notice that an indi- 
vidual fire had to be made under each pot that 
was cooking. 

We returned to the hotel, had lunch, and 
started again at 2 p.m., first driving through 
the forest for an hour, and it was lovely with 
the sun shining on the colored leaves. In some 
parts, however, it was so thick it was almost im- 
possible to send any shining rays through. 

The homes of the millionaires (800 living 

91 



here) were the next to be admired, and through 
a new residential district, we came to the 
Palm Garden, where is the most wonderful col- 
lection of flowers I have ever seen. The mums 
were perfectly grand, and this being the sea- 
son they were in full bloom. Our courier said : 
"Any who did not see the Palm Garden did not 
see Frankfort." A fee of 1 mark has to be 
paid by all admitted, thus it is kept very 
select. When we arrived at the pavilion after- 
noon te>a was being served and the orchestra 
of 36 pieces playing. We had refreshments 
and returned to the hotel in time for dinner. 
This completed another very eventful day in 
the way of sightseeing, and it being so nice, we 
enjoyed all immensely. 

I forgot to tell you the city is a blaze of 
color, with bunting and flags, in honor of the 
jubilee celebration to-morrow of the indepen- 
dence of Prussia, or the exclusion of the French 
from Germany. 

In order to fully enjoy the demonstration 
we are leaving for Heidelberg to-morrow, in- 
stead of Sunday, and will return here on Mon 
day to make our connections for Berlin. It is 
only a short ride to Heidelberg, and the guide 
strongly advises us to do this. Of course Heid- 
elberg is included in the itinerary. 

Dogs are very scarce or rare as the tax is 
high. 

Tom is feeling better and busy with the 
traffic. 

The guide to-day was a splendid little man, 
and could speak the English language as well 
as we could. As we go along we find the Pari- 

92 



sian was the worst, and I was not satisfied from 
the first day with him, but Tom did not want 
to complain. 

M. D. sent us a bundle of papers to Wies- 
baden, for which I wish you would thank her, 
and tell her how much we both appreciated 
them. 



Heidelberg, Hotel d 'Europe. 
Sunday, Oct. 19, 8.30 a.m. 

This is our first morning in Heidelberg and 
we are to go out with the guide at 10 a.m. 

Arrived here at 4 p.m. yesterday, and aftef 
getting fixed up we strolled around for a while. 
It is very small in comparison with the places 
just visited, but it is very beautifully situated 
in the valley of two large mountains, and the 
town is built on both sides of the river. 

We are rather disappointed, however, to 
find that the big celebration is to be in Leip- 
zig, where a new monument is being unveiled 
in memory of the Franco-Prussian War, and 
then there is also the International Exhibition 
of the Building Trades and Homes going on too, 
which is quite an attraction. However, the 
whole place is decorated and the students and 
soldiers were out in full force in a torchlight 
procession, to make as much excitement as pos- 
sible. After dinner we went down to the bridge 
with the crowds to see the illuminations on the 
mountain. It was indeed very pretty and with 
the moon in all its fulness reflecting on the 
river presented a very pretty effect. 

98 



There is quite a big university here and, I 
believe, this is or was at one time the first edu- 
cational place in Germany. Outside the castle 
and the scenery there is very little to interest 
the sightseer. 

Coming here hungry, as we did, the dinner 
put before us was sufficient attraction for me 
vegetable soup, fish, steak (the nicest we have 
had in a long time), green peas, beans, carrots, 
French fries, tomato sauce, pudding, small 
cakes, and fruit. Isn't that something worth 
while? I enjoyed every bit of it. In so many 
places we get such a collection of things I don 't 
like, such as pigeons, small birds, and sauer- 
kraut. 

Again we have a beautiful room, on the 
first floor, overlooking the pretty garden or 
lawn in the front of the hotel. This is the 
largest hotel here and accommodates many 
hundred people, but the season closed on the 
15th of October. You know, the climate in 
Germany is very similar to our own, and at 
the summer resorts it is a few weeks late. Of 
course, we are not here for our health. We are 
both feeling fine and hope all at home are. 

We 'are returning to Frankfort this after- 
noon. 

It is reported that the explosion of a Zeppe- 
lin happened yesterday and 28 people were 
killed. Six were killed in a railroad accident 
in Liverpool, and with the disaster at mid-ocean 
makes three within 10 days. Terrible each one 
has been. 



94 



Carlton Hotel, Frankfort. 
October 19. 

We are back again in Frankfort and had 
rather an unpleasant day sightseeing, as it be- 
gan to get foggy and rain a little, so we took a 
hurried departure from Heidelberg. 

However, after going to church, we drove 
to see the castle, which was commenced at the 
end of the 13th century, and according to the 
fancy of each Ruler one piece after another 
was built, In the time of war the palace suf- 
fered much, but it was completely restored and 
fortified until 1764, when it was struck with 
lightning and the whole interior became a prey 
to flames. No further restoration has been 
made, but the greatest care has been taken to 
protect the ruins. 

The gardens, with their terraces, grottoes, 
statues and flower beds, are arranged in the 
richest variety. Its beautiful trees, too, are 
venerable relics of time. 

After wandering through the different parts 
we came back to the carriage to see the Post 
Office, Chemical Laboratory, St. Peter's Church, 
University Library, which contains 350,000 
volumes ; the University, the Archaeological In- 
stitute, containing many casts of plaster and 
electrotype facsimiles of old coins; the Church 
of the Jesuits, the largest in Heidelberg, and 
in the vaults of which rest the remains of 
Friedrich the Victorious; Bismark Place, a 
pretty garden, containing a very fine bust of 
Bismark ; the hospitals of the University, which 

96 



form a series of buildings, and the Botanical 
Gardens. 

If time permitted and it was a little earlier 
in the season many interesting little excursions 
could be taken to the suburbs of Heidelberg 
and with much pleasure. 

After dinner we met Mr. Vaughan, a very 
nice American from Philadelphia, and we spent 
the evening together. Mrs. Vaughan is confined 
to bed with a nurse in attendance. She is suf- 
fering from a severe cold in the head, and the 
doctor says there is a little inflammation. A 
great many people have colds and at first I 
thought it was hay fever, but they say not. 
The weather has been so changeable. 

There is a foreign princess stopping here who 
has attracted considerable attention. She has 
four attendants, and any one of them looks bet- 
ter, sensibly or otherwise, than the Royal per- 
son; in fact, I believe she is a little "queer." 

I haven't any more to write about just now. 
Have sent off a few lines to Lizzie, telling her 
to read your letters in order to save my time. 
I have really reduced my writing by just ac- 
knowledging the letters I receive. 



Savoy Hotel, Berlin. 
October 20. 

We have been traveling from 8.23 a.m. to 
3.34 p.m., Frankfort to Berlin, on a very nice 
train, very warm and comfortable, and on ar- 
rival found guide waiting for us, who drove to 

96 



the hotel with us, and, by the way, it was the 
nicest taxi I was ever in, so large and roomy, 
finished off with grey and white trimmings. 

Pound the mail which had 'been sent to 
Edinburgh waiting for us, also two letters from 
Lizzie, two cards from Maudie, one letter from 
Mrs. Martin and two from you, all of which 
brought us interesting news, and Tom is already 
enjoying the papers sent by Mrs. Martin. 

It is very warm and like summer, and the 
cafes are serving teia on the street at small 
tables, like in Paris. 

Just opposite our window is an amusement 
park or circus and it is as busy as can be. 
Would remind one of Hanlan's Point. 

Will write later when I have seen some- 
thing of Berlin. Love to the families. 



October 21. 

It is just 8.30 p.m. and Tom is preparing for 
bed. 

We cancelled our appointment with the 
guide to-day as Tom did not feel good enough 
and he did not get up till noon. He took a real 
warm bath and asperin last night, and I think 
he is feteling better. I left instructions at the 
office to send me an English-speaking doctor, 
but the one who usually attends the guests at 
this house did not come in last night, so we had 
to do without. 

After lunch, about 2.30 p.m., we went out 
while the sun was shining. It was so nice it 
seemed 'a pity to remain in. We strolled 

97 



around to the new art gallery, where we saw 
an endless number of pictures and sculptures 
by the modern German masters. We then went 
to the Kaiser Cafe for afternoon tea. 

From what we have seen, Berlin is really a 
city of statues and monuments, and each one 
has its elaborate decoration or wreath from the 
celebration on Saturday. In fact, flags are still 
flying everywhere and a great many soldiers 
were on parade. It is, too, the country of sol- 
diers and militia. 

Friedrichstr, on which the Savoy is located, 
is very narrow in parts, but 18 miles long. 



October 22. 

We have just finished our first day with 
the guide in Berlin, and find it very in- 
teresting and beautiful. It is the third largest 
city of Europe, 2,500,000 population, but can- 
not date its historical or political importance 
back as far as London or Paris. It is, as you 
know, the capital of the Kingdom of Prussia 
as well as the German Empire, and it is the 
seat of the highest authorities. The Kaiser, 
William II, and the Empress were just coming 
to the castle as we were going to make a tour 
of the State apartments, so we had to be denied 
admission. 

To see the soldiers everywhere one would 
naturally conclude it a city of militia, and this 
being the Empress's birthday all are wearing 
the helmet in honor of the occasion. 

98 



At 1 p.m., when the relief guards were go- 
ing on duty, the streets were jammed every 
day it is the same and as we happened to be 
in the palace of the Emperor's grandfather. 
William I, and Empress Augusta, we had a 
splendid view as they marched by, and one of 
the horses, a beauty, jet black, came prancing 
to the time of the music. It was indeed very 
nice. Later the Crown Prince drove up to his 
palace, which is situated between the Emperor's 
castle and his great-grandfather's. The present 
Ruler's father only ruled 99 days, having died 
of cancer, but his grandfather lived to the age 
of 96 or 97. 

We found the palace very interesting and 
full of beautiful specimen of fine art, antiques, 
portraits of the Royal Family, presents of lapis 
lazuli, carrara marble ; and the Malachite Room 
is furnished with very rich presents from the 
Russian relations. The circular ballroom, with 
its echo, was also rather interesting. 

Prom there we went to the Arsenal, which 
contains a miscellaneous collection of war in- 
struments and captured firearms, etc. The dis- 
play arrangement is excellent, having stuffed 
horsies for the cavalry. So you can better un- 
derstand me, I might say they have a long 
glass case, with the mounted officers in uniform, 
showing the style of dress for the past 200 
years. It is here, too, always at 12 noon on 
New Year's Day, that the Emperor assembles 
with his family to wish his officers the season's 
compliments. There are seven sons and one 
daughter in the first house of the Royal Family. 

When we were in Frankfort there was a 

99 



Grecian prince stopping at the Carlton who had 
nine attendants, and a princess "only half- 
baked," as Mr. Vaughan said. She really 
looked it, and she always had two attendants 
in the dining room with her. 

We then visited the Dom, the Kaiser's 
church, situated just opposite his palace, and 
the equestrian statue of King Frederick Wil- 
liam II. 

This is not a city of churches, but rather of 
statue, fountains and beer cafes. The present 
ruler, we have been told, has done a great deal 
to beautify his native place. In one avenue, 
The Siegesalle like College Ave. he has a 
very fine display of sculpture work, represent- 
ing the rulers of Prussia from 1100 to the 
present time. He made a sort of competition, 
that is, he allowed copies to be submitted with- 
out any names, and then in awarding the work 
he really did not know who was getting it. It- 
happened that one man was awarded a number 
of them. And at the end of the avenue stands 
a Gothic fountain, with the figure of the Na- 
tional Hero erected by the city in appreciation 
of their Ruler. 

All through the city are to be seen any num- 
ber of huge bronze works, either fountains or 
statues. In the Tiergarten are many marble 
statues, including Emperor and Empress Fred- 
erick III, Queen Louise, Goethe, and Wagner. 

This afternoon we drove to Charlottenburg, 
passing through Brandenburg Gate, House of 
Parliament, Bismark and Moltke monuments, 
Oharlottenburg Palace, and a promenade 
through the gardens to the Mausoleum, the 

100 



resting place of Queen Louise, King Frederick 
William III, the Emperor William I, and Em- 
press Augusta, the great-grandparents and the 
grandparents of the Kaiser. Queen Louise' 
picture is often shown in Simpson's shoe win- 
dow display, the original of which is in the 
museum at Brussels. 

On our return we drove through the fash- 
ionable drive, Unter den Linden, meeting 
the Crown Prince and Princess in their 
motor, and we also had the pleasure of 
seeing the airship which comes in every 
day from Potsdam to Berlin and returns 
($50 for two hours). It is the same model, the 
Zeppelin, that exploded on Friday, when 27 
of the 28 were killed instantly, the other man 
dying on Saturday. It was a military airship 
and it is believed they forced it too much, want- 
ing to make a record. 

It was a very pathetic scene yesterday to seo 
23 caskets being carried out at the one time. 
Five were taken to another church. 

We then came to the Piccadilly Cafe for 
afternoon tea, another beautiful place, crowded 
with young and old, even men, taking their tea, 
coffee, chocolate, or beer. It has just recently 
been opened and over 500 people stood all night 
so as to be admitted and be on the first night 
craze. 

It is now after 12.30 midnight and we have 
been into the Ice Palace, and have had the 
pleasure of seeing a whole show performed on 
the skates. 

Well, May, as it is late and we go to Pots- 
dam in the morning, I must get into bed, so will 
say good night. 



101 



October 23. 

As usual, I have a few moments before the 
guide comes. Unfortunately, it is a little 
dreary, and I don't know whether Tom will 
cancel our arrangements for another day. It 
is not raining, just a mist, but it makes 
it so chilly and it seems to penetrate him so. I 
notice you are having a cold spell in the West 
and a gale of 60 miles has been blowing on the 
Atlantic. 

I told you we were at the Ice Palace. It 
was very entertaining. In the balconies and on 
the main floor tables were arranged for small 
dinner parties. In fact, one could order any- 
thing they liked, just an ice or soda, but a great 
many had come in evening dress and fully pre- 
pared to spend the night and, no doubt, part 
of the morning. Even at 5 a.m. there is no dif- 
ference in the crowds on the streets or cafes. 
The man in the room next to us usually comes 
in about that hour. 

"The Gay Doll" was the most unique thing, 
and sharp at 8, when the whistle blew, the 
skaters cleared the ice and the performance 
began; fancy skaters first, a little vaudeville 
or variety, and then the revue, a pantomime on 
skates, entitled "The G-ay Doll." One very 
clever little girl, or perhaps a small-sized lady, 
came out dressed in a pretty little white lace 
dress over blue, long light curls, white hat with 
large blue bow, white shoes and half stockings, 
and she certainly made the prettiest mechanical 
doll imaginable. Just moved her head and hand* 
like you so often see them, particularly at Xmas 
time, and what she couldn 't do on skates wasn 't 
102 



worth doing. Then they had a carnival, a cir- 
cus, with performing pony made up, of course 
and several other funny things which go to 
make up the ordinary circus. During the play 
all the boys were in love with the doll, and one 
infatuated her so much that she finally rode 
with him in a chariot or fancy carriage drawn 
by two white ponies. The other carriage had 
dark ponies. All the time there was a little 
red-haired boy after her, and when he saw the 
Doll being taken away from him he fainted on 
the ice and had to be carried off. 

The next scene required some preparation 
(before this they only used a curtain at one 
end). It was a castle scene in Egypt or some of 
the Eastern countries, and in this act the little 
red-haired boy finally persuaded the Doll to 
come and live with him, and at once she was 
made a queen, changed her costume on the ice, 
and they went to the castle to live. An im- 
mense rug was put down with cushions spread 
around, and they sat there while an army of 
attendants came out, seven at a time 1 you 
know how they do in comic opera and danced 
on their skates. Some were dressed as butter- 
flies, birds, peacocks, ponies, and other things, 
making about one hundred. When all had as- 
sembled they went through a drill, the different 
colors together, making it very lovely, and at 
the conclusion the castle was illuminated and 
water went shooting up from the fountain to 
the time of the music at various heights up to 
50 feet. 

The colored lights reflecting on the water 



103 



made it very pretty, and they say the Ice Palace 
is the only thing of its kind in the world. 

Later there was another performance of 
several fancy skaters, and a game. I don't 
know what they would call it, but there were 
three men on a side with a goal at the end. 
The ball is like a football, but ten or twelve 
times larger, and they play by throwing it in 
the air. It is not to touch the ice. 

I think we will try a skate before we leave. 



October 23. 

Well, we got out to Potsdam, the residence 
of the Royalty at various times, and the cradle 
of the Prussian army, where some of the crack 
regiments of the guard are stationed. 

We went on the train, almost an hour's ride, 
and we were glad not a drop of rain fell all 
day. It cleared and was quite pleasant and 
not too cool for driving. A carriage was wait- 
ing for us when we came to the depot. 

The arrangements we are traveling on are 
certainly very fine, and we have encountered 
no trouble at all. 

Potsdam is really a town of some 65,000 
people, and the real importance of the place 
dates back to the time of Frederick the Great. 
He made this his favorite residence, and the 
Stadt Schloss, Sans Souci and the new palace 
were his creations. 

We first visited the Sans Souci Castle and 
Gardens, where everything is kept exactly as 
in the days of the old Emperor. 

104 



Then to the Garrison Church, where rest 
the remains of Frederick the Great and Fred- 
erick William I, and passed the historical wind- 
mill to the new Sans Souci, but unfortunately 
we had to be satisfied with the admiration of 
the beautiful gardens and Royal park grounds, 
as the Kaiser seems to be following us around, 
the Royal Family having just arrived at the 
palace to celebrate quietly the birthday of 
the Empress. She had requested that there 
should be no fuss on account of the recent dis- 
aster of the Zeppelin. She did not want enjoy- 
ment when so many were in sorrow. The whole 
of Germany has expressed a great deal of re- 
gret on this account. Being a military airship, 
they were all well known officers of high rank ; 
and, think of it, the machine was to the ground 
in less than a minute after the explosion. Did 
I tell you we saw a model in the Arsenal? It 
has a carriage for passengers similar to a Pull- 
man car, and champagne or other refreshments 
are served. 

We had lunch and enjoyed all the good 
things prepared for us. We then made a tour 
of inspection through the Stadt Schloss, and 
from one of the windows enjoyed seeing the 
soldiers on drill. 

It is almost time for me to get ready for din- 
ner, so I must be off. Good-bye to all. 



105 



October 23. 

After dining we went to the Wintergarden, 
an immense place, extending from one street to 
another, the stage being in the centre on one 
side, and on an elevated platform parallel with 
the stage are small tables where everything, 
even dinner, can be served. Tn the orchestra 
seats, where we were, is a railing with a hole 
cut at every seat for a glass to fit in. Any 
amusement or attraction would not be right 
without the eating or drinking. 

The ceiling was done to represent the sky 
and electric bulbs were arranged as stars 
something new, never saw anything like it 
before. 

It was vaudeville, and all but one turn was 
in English, so we both enjoyed it. 

It is now 12 p.m. and Tom is busily inter- 
ested in the traffic at the front door. He is 
feeling better and this is a good sign. 



October 24. 

This is another nice day and we have been 
down as far as the shopping district, where we 
spent an hour in one departmental store, Wer- 
theims, the largest here. Emerald, green, purple, 
orange, and tango are the predominating colors. 
Not so much fox seen here as in Paris, but there 
is more than you would see in Toronto. 

On enquiring why we should see so many 
men with big ugly scars on their faces and 
heads, we were told that they are Varsity 

106 



students and receive them in friendly duels, 
which are considered quite honorable. They 
are very proud of them. One young man in 
Wiesbaden must have eight marks. 



October 25. 

After writing you yesterday we went 
through another shopping district and returned 
to the hotel about 6 or 6.30. We dressed and 
went to dinner at 8 p.m., which usually takes 
about an hour, and at 9.30 had our initiation in 
a German cabaret. Remained there until 11 
p.m., and then went to the Palace de Dance. I 
never will forget the beauty of the place. Being 
there early we had, of course, the choice of good 
seats, and watched with interest the pretty 
dresses and hats. Even the furs were beautiful. 
And at 12 or 12.30 the place was beginning t3 
be crowded. I have certainly enjoyed a goo-1 
many laughs since. Champagne was the only 
refreshment served and everyone had to buy a 
quart bottle. We managed to spill ours away 
and I said to Tom at breakfast this morning at 
11 a.m. " I would like to go again for the sake 
of the champagne." But it is rather expensive 
and intended only for one night. Most people 
go to see just as we did. 

To tell you something of it I might say 
on ascending the stairs, after leaving wraps in 
a handsome cloak room, we came into a large 
room containing tables and chairs, and adjoin- 
ing is another, separated with fancy arches and 
railing. We went down the three or four steps 

107 



to a table at the railing, where we had a splen- 
did view. 

The dance floor is in the centre of this second 
room, surrounded by yellow marble rail and 
8 large marble fonts filled with the grandest 
pink roses. The walls were of grey and brown 
granite decorated at top and bottom with gold 
ornaments, and at the top of heavy panels were 
gold 'baskets filled with yellow bulbs to repre- 
sent roses, and between each were mirrors set 
in as medallions in gold frames. A large vase of 
red poppies stood on gold shelf with cupids in 
profusion at bottom of medallions. This room 
was round, with dome effect for ceiling, a large 
glass top to represent diamonds in centre, and 
painted medallions extending from this at dif- 
ferent intervals to reach the granite columns. 
The whole effect was very grand, the swellest 
thing we have seen, and cost, I believe. $175,- 
000. The orchestra is elevated, and a fancy 
staircase extends from either side, and the men 
wore red military coats. The waiters wore vel- 
vet bloomers and tail coats of brown with brass 
buttons. 

The ladies danced with the most elaborate 
ermine scarfs. Hair was marceled no plain 
dressing at all. Everybody smoked ^cigarettes. 
It was real funny for us to watch the different 
antics to become acquainted. At 1 a.m. the 
place was packed and they were arriving as 
fast as they could. It was after 2 a.m. when 
we took our departure, and this accounts for 
our late breakfast. 

It is another beautiful day and we are go 

108 



ing to see the aeroplane flights by the French 
aviator Pegoud. 

After my long wait for mail I have just 
received five letters yours, Emily's, Mrs. 
Clifford's, Mrs. Martin's, and Dollie's. So 
glad to have all, and I now must be off to 
read them and to lunch early in order to get 
the 1.45 train. 



October 25. 

Was very glad to have letters from you, B. 
McCarron, J. Deacon, and Mrs. Shaughnessy 
this morning, and I have noted with interest 
all contained in yours. Very glad to know of 
the erection of the O'Donnell monument. I am 
sorry to know Mr. Shaughnessy is not well, and 
it is too bad Sister Ethelberg does not improve. 

Well, we got out to Johannisthal, and long 
before departure at 1.45 the train platform 
and everywhere was so crowded that we 
had to pack in anywhere and stood the 30 min- 
utes we were traveling. There was no choice 
in second or third class and as many as 25 
people were in the one compartment, which or- 
dinarily accommodates eight comfortably. On 
our arrival the roads leading to the aerodrom.3 
were crowded, and a circle was made of spec- 
tators who were not entering the grounds. Tom 
paid an entrance fee of 10 marks ($2.50) and 
we had chairs in the front row in one of the 
boxes. Had a splendid place. It is very sim- 
ilar to the Woodbine but much larger, and at 
3.15 p.m. you could not find a vacant spot on 

109 



the lawns. The style, too, was marvelous, all 
kinds of smart suits and furs. 

Before Pegoud made his flights several other 
aviators flew around and amused the spectators 
until the Frenchman made his appearance at 
3.30 p.m. On his ascension in his light-looking 
machine he waved and waved and on every 
somersault he made the people sent up heaps 
of applause and cheers, and he waved in ac- 
knowledgement. He remained up fully three- 
quarters of an hour and he went so very high 
that he could hardly be seen. I said to Tom I 
thought he must be as far up in the sky as we 
were away from home. Some English people 
we met from Honolulu thought the same. It was 
most wonderful, and in the midst of the excite- 
ment the airship from Potsdam made a circle of 
the course. We made good use of the glasses 
to-day. 50,000 marks was the prize or money 
offered, 30,000 for to-day and 20,000 for Sun- 
day, and eome additional if he should make 
two flights to-day. It was a perfectly glorious 
day and he no doubt took advantage of it by 
ascending twice. On the second flight we left 
the grounds for the train, and oh me, oh my, 
what a jam, but when we were able to reach 
the station platform we were lucky enough to 
meet a German naval officer who could speak 
English and he chatted with us until the train 
came in, and then he and his friend held the 
compartment door until I got in first. Tom next, 
and they two, so we were quite comfortable 
coming into the city. Every available space 
was taken. There must have been over 100,000 
people out to the grounds. This officer is in 

no 



the flying business, too, but his are water 
flights and he goes up every morning at 5 a.m. 
So we think we were lucky, being strangers 
and unfamiliar with the language, to have 
tackled the crowd. 



Grand Union Hotel, Dresden. 
October 26. 

We arrived here at 7 p.m., and since then we 
have had a good evening meal, and I just wish 
you could have seen the quantity of ice cream 
Tom enjoyed. When I remarked about it 
he said, "I am just beginning to get my appe- 
tite back," but I don't know when and whers 
he lost the original. He is feeling fine and ha* 
taken to the pipe and <cigars again, and the 
traffic has not missed much without him. Even 
the beggars or smart men have been trying to 
touch him for meals. 

Well, we finished our visit in Berlin by go 
ing to St. Hedwig Church, where some of the 
Royal Family attend, and it was so packed thai" 
we had to stand all the time. The singing was 
beautiful. 

After mass we strolled around, saw the 
relief guards of honor again, and arrived at the 
hotel about noon, packed up, -and lunched be- 
fore taking our departure. 

Cook's interpreter was at the depot and had 
two seats next the window reserved for us, 
and on our arrival here the manager came out 
and addressed Tom, "Mr. McCarron," and I 
was handed a letter from Lizzie, so we are well 
111 



looked after. We have a lovely room and the 
meal to-night is an exceptionally good sample. 
We both enjoyed it. 

You might ring Mutual and Roxboro and 
tell them I received the letters at Berlin. I 
haven't answered any yet, but will soon. 



Grand Hotel, Nurnberg 
October 27. 

Having met a very nice young lady, Miss 
Florence Pope, of Columbus, Ohio, who was 
on her way to Vienna for the winter with Dr. 
Smith, wife and child, we were out late last 
evening and this accounts for my not writing, 
and I did not have time this morning, as our 
train pulled out at 8.30 and we were up at 7. 

At first when leaving Dresden we came into 
a very rugged but pretty country, and the 
forests were even nicer than any we had seen. 
The coloring of the trees was grand and af- 
forded good subjects for the artist. Soon cul- 
tivated land was to be seen, and men and 
women, particularly the latter, were busy with 
the finishing touches of the fields for this year. 
Some were ploughing with oxen, while others 
were working as hard as possible pulling tur- 
nips, cabbage, etc., and drawing them in. 
Wherever there are any cattle or sheep grazing, 
even a flock of geese, there is someone watching 
them. All through Germany this seems to be 
the custom, and there are no fences dividing 
the farms or along the roadway. 

Well, I must tell you something of Dresden, 

119 



and I may say to me it looked its fairest under 
a grand blue sky and glorious sunshine. With 
the gardens in full bloom and the window boxes 
and rose beds beautiful, one could easily have 
been excused in imagining it was May instead 
of October. Since leaving Wiesbaden we have 
had all that could have been desired in the 
weather. Some children were running bare- 
footed, while at some of the nice places they 
were taking afternoon tea on the verandah. 

The guide, with a very good looking turn- 
out always a landau came early, and we 
started through the better residential district 
to the art gallery, where we saw the famous 
"Madonna," by Raffaello, a most wonderful 
picture, as well as many other works of the 
masters of the Italian, Spanish, French and 
Flemish schools of the early centuries. 

We then went to the Royal Court Church, 
adjoining the King's Castle, where there is a 
private bridge leading from the apartments to 
boxes or glass enclosures in the gallery over the 
altar. A wedding was being performed. We 
always seem to strike something on our visits. 
In the palace we saw some very magnificently 
furnished rooms, and particularly priceless 
china. The guide pointed out six high blue 
vases (looked Chinese), for which one King 
had exchanged a regiment of soldiers. 

1 p.m. we were back at the hotel for 
lunch and resumed our drive at 3 p.m., going 
through the old and new part of the city, also 
the parks and finished at the hotel about 5 p.m. 

Dresden is the capital of Saxony and is situ- 
ated on both banks of the Elbe, and is often 

113 



called the "Florence" of Germany. Has 550,000 
inhabitants, and is the birthplace of m&ny fa- 
mous men, such as Korner, the poet, and Von 
Bulow, the pianist. It contains many sights of 
interest to the traveler, such as arsenal collec- 
tion, libraries, botanical gardens, aquarium. 
Green Vault in the main courtyard of the Royal 
Palace, Bismark, Luther, Mozart monuments, 
and Neptune's Fountain in the gar Jen of the 
municipal hospital. 

As in Brussels, the dogs are made very use- 
ful, but instead of being hitched as a pair or 
three, we saw a dog hitched to one shaft, while 
an old lady and sometimes a young man pulled 
on the other. It was Monday and all day we 
met them pulling carts filled with laundry bas- 
kets. Women in Germany certainly have to 
work hard. 

Miss Pope joined us on our return and we 
had afternoon tea before saying good-bye. 

We arrived in Nurnberg about 4.10 p.m., 
after seven hours' ride in the train, and it is 
now 6.45, and I feel equal for my dinner. I 
don't care very much for the meals on the 
diners running in Germany. We will be leav- 
ing here probably on Thursday or Friday, and 
then, after our visit to Munich, we will leave 
the German Empire for Switzerland. 

Tom is busy now writing to Jim in acknowl- 
edgement of a letter he received yesterday. 

Our room is very nicely situated overlook- 
ing the square or park in front of the depot, 
very similar to the Carlton at Frankfort, and 
we find it quite up-to-date and modern, with 
all facilities and conveniences. We have run- 

114 



ning water in room, two beds, writing table, 
reading lamp, lounge, four chairs, breakfast 
table, and plenty of light, both electric and 
sunshine. 

Will sample the dining room now and finish 
later. 

P.S. I notice the New York Paris Herald on 
Saturday reports: "Pegoud in his monoplane 
flew 59 seconds in an upside down position and 
after righting himself he looped the loop five 
times. In the course of his second flight he 
flew head downwards for 1 minute 17 seconds, 
looped the loop consecutively, and then exe- 
cuted some bewildering manoeuvres, tipping 
his monoplane's wings vertically and gliding 
downwards." This was his performance on 
Saturday, and we heard at least 50 would like 
to go up with him, but he won 't take any. Our 
guide in Berlin told us he went up once, but 
never again. He said the sensation is awful. 
At first one would feel very seasick, can't see, 
lose your feeling, and are just like dead, and 
on reaching the ground you can't get your 
breath. 



October 28. 

You already know we have received your 
letters and have perused all in detail, and I 
hope it won't be long before some more come 
along. I have -certainly enjoyed yours and the 
few others received, but Tom takes heaps of 
pleasure from the Canadian papers Margaret 
D has been good enough to send. However, 
time is going very quickly and it won 't be long 

115 



now until we are starting homeward and my 
anxiety for news from Toronto will be over. 

This is our second day here and the one for 
sightseeing, but as there is a mist something 
similar to the one at Wiesbaden and Heidel- 
berg, we have cancelled the arrangement for 
the guide and carriage, for the reason that Tom 
was afraid of renewing his cold, so we walked 
around, visited some old churches, the open 
market, and admired the shop windows as we 
went along. It is really a quaint old place, full 
of antiquity, and to me from general appear- 
ance is to Germany what Quebec is to Canada. 
Some of the buildings date back as far as 1494, 
and at some time there must have been a great 
deal of Catholicity, as statues are to be seen in 
every conceivable place, and last night when 
Tom asked the hall porter what was the sport 
or amusement in the evening he replied : * * None, 
too much Catholic." So there is evidently a 
big percentage still, -and quite reverse to the 
other German places visited between Cologne 
and Nurnberg. 

The sights of the town are: St. Katharine's 
Church (dates from the 14th century) ; the city 
walls and ramparts, new Town Theatre, the 
National Museum, the renowned depository of 
German art; Rochus Cemetery; the Zoological 
Gardens, and the Castle, encircled with its bas- 
tions 'built in 1535, present abundance of plea- 
sant aspects and call up dreams of ages and 
historical events. 

With these one can have a very good idea 
of Nurnberg and will always remember a visit 
here. 

116 



Hotel Bayerischer Hof, Munich. 
October 29. 

We pulled out of Nurnberg at 1.30 and ar- 
rived here at 5.12 p.m., finding two letters of 
the 17th and 20th, two from Dollie, and one 
from Sister Ermalinda waiting for us. I was 
so glad to have them. 

Speaking of your chicken dinner and sup- 
per reminds me that we have scarcely missed 
a day without chicken, and lettuce salad. T 
think it is quite a joke. Every place we go it 
is salad under a different name, and it is al- 
ways lettuce with oil. 

"We have a very beautiful room, and as we 
go along they improve. This is superb, with 
the most delicate looking furnishings and drap- 
ings. 

We met a Mrs. White, of New York, yester- 
day in Nurnberg, and she tells us we have the 
best of our trip to see. She has already been 
in Europe four times, and she is now here over 
four months. 

It is much after 6.30 and I must change for 
dinner, and if the meals compare with the other 
things we will be more than satisfied. Will 
write again when I have something new to tell 
you. 



117 



October 31. 

This is the last day of the month, and the 
guide tells us it has been the nicest in years. 
It was so warm, that people were without wraps 
or coats. Munich being so near the mountains, 
it is considered colder than some of the other 
places just visited. 

1 p.m. we drove out with the guide, first 
through the better class of residences to the 
new and old Pinakothek, where we viewed a 
collection of paintings of celebrated old masters 
from the 14th to 18th centuries. The new gal- 
lery was built in 1846 for King Ludwig I 's col- 
lection of pictures of contemporary artists and 
for the work of the 19th century artists. 1,000 
pictures are already displayed. 

Entered the carriage again and drove 
around to see the principal monuments, library, 
university colleges, veterinary college, and the 
churches, many of which are very old. Then 
we came to the Hofbrauhaus the Kaiser's 
brewery which we found crowded with men 
and a few women, sitting at small tables drink- 
ing the beer from steins. This is an old institu- 
tion and still keeps up its celebrity. It is the 
most frequented beer house, and the old primi- 
tive bar has been renewed and looks quite 
respectable. The rooms are furnished in the 
style of the time of its foundation and are dec- 
orated with a few mottoes, paintings and deer 
heads. As early as the 15th century beer 
brewers had a very important position among 
the tradespeople. Upstairs, because there is a 
lunch cloth on the table, it is a few pennies 

118 



dearer, Tom was greatly amused, and more so 
when he saw women in uniform, wearing a 
green hat, cleaning the street. He lost his 
respect for Germany when they allow this. 

The Statue of Bavaria is the largest we have 
seen, 29 ft. high, cast in bronze, the figure of a 
Teutonic woman, the patroness of the country, 
and the lion Bavaria's power and nobility. 
For anyone who is fond of climbing stairs there 
are 48 steps through the figure to the top, and 
on a good clear day a glorious panorama of the 
Alps presents itself. To give a real idea of the 
immensity of the figure, the face is four feet 
in length, first finger three feet, and the circum- 
ference of the arm four feet. 

The Siegesthor Gate of Victory according 
to the inscription, was dedicated to the Bav- 
arian army and modeled after the Constantine 
arch in Rome. 

Well, May, really I have seen a great deal 
more than I am capable of telling you, and it 
takes time, so I will finish by saying that 
Munich is really a cultured city of 500,000 
people, is the capital of Bavaria, another king- 
dom of the German Empire, has its own gover- 
nor, so to speak, with its own laws, etc., but 
under the Kaiser. Just yesterday the Prince 
Regent was proclaimed King, and is to be 
crowned in a few days. The proper heir by 
title is in an insane institution and has been 
for 40 years, ever since he was a young man 
of 27. His uncle ruled for him until a year 
ago, when he died at the age of 9.1, and now 
the son is made King. 

This is Hallowe'en and it is very quiet. I 

119 



don't believe they celebrate here. The stu- 
dents, we notice, have those awful scars on 
their faces, and all wear the little colored col- 
lege cap. I think I told you in all colleges 
but Catholic they fight friendly duels, and if 
they flinch at all from the point of the sword, 
that is, three times, they are excluded from cer- 
tain clubs. 

There is a musicale in the concert hall in the 
hotel to-night, but we are not going to bother 
about it. 

To-morrow is All Saints, and all places of 
business and stores will be closed, and the 
people are busy looking after floral decorations 
for the cemetery. Every grave will be decor- 
ated to-morrow. Even the Jews, they honor 
the day, and Christmas with the Christmas tree. 

"We took a little walk after breakfast, and 
happened to reach Marien platz just in time to 
hear the chimes of the Town Hall clock, an- 
other wonderful piece of architecture, and from 
what I can understand and see, represents the 
virtues of a good citizen, namely: Industry, 
youth with hammer and square; domesticity, 
mother and child; courage, a soldier, and 
charity, distribution of bread. 

This is something new for us. 

In the courtyard the band gives a concert 
every day at noon. 

Some of the streets are very narrow; in 
fact, in places one has to go under the passage- 
ways that have been built across the streets. 
We drove through some of the oldest parts, and 
it is remarkable to see the quaint little two- 
family houses, and money can't get the people 

120 



out. While I think of it, did I tell you, when 
traveling on the trains or even through the 
towns, we noticed wherever there is any water 
flowing the people have little stands erected 
for laundry work. It is so funny to see a lot 
of women kneeling while they wash. 

The Peace Monument, a column 75 ft. high, 
surmounted by gilt figure resting on a structure 
supported by twelve antique statues of women, 
commands great admiration, and on each side 
the greatest taste has been shown in the park 
in layout of the paths, grouping of small trees 
or shrubbery, small rocks, grottoes, and every- 
thing to make it as picturesque as possible. 

The Prinzregentin Theatre, used only for 
the "Wagner operas, is also very fine. 

Much more time than we are able to give 
could be spent in the places visited to fully 
appreciate all. 

Tom thinks I have written quite enough and 
wants me to say -good night. He is feeling 
better, and I am so glad. L/ast night I was 
afraid he was in for some sickness, and he was 
worrying about getting home. His eyes were 
so heavy and he complained of his heart throb- 
bing. I am hoping he will be all right now. 
Somehow he likes the big cities London, Paris 
and Berlin. The ismaller historical places don 't 
appeal to him. 



November 1. 

This has been a very quiet day, just like 
Sunday, but a perfect day, equally as nice as 
121 



yesterday, and Tom was able to enjoy the drive 
this afternoon, and we witnessed a very won- 
derful sight by visiting the cemeteries. This 
being All Saints it was very respectfully cele- 
brated, all public, governmental and business 
houses were closed, and the bells from the 57 
different churches were ringing from early 
morn. We went to St. Boniface, one of the 
finest here, and at 1 p.m. the guide and car- 
riage called for us, and we drove first to East 
Cemetery, to see its fine mortuary and magni- 
ficent tombstones. The flowers, wre'aths, 
candles, and colored lamps were the most won- 
derful I have seen; in fact, I was amazed to 
see the respect shown the dead. It was mar- 
velous. In a great many cases an old lady had 
been hired as guard to protect the flowers and 
to see that the lights would burn until Sunday 
night. Everyone made a visit to-day, and a 
full force of police was out to give directions. 

It happened that two persons had died and 
were waiting burial. Three hours after death 
the remains are brought to the mortuary and 
left there until the morning of the funeral, 
when they are taken to the chapel. Rich and 
poor, Royalty or peasantry, all are treated the 
same. It is a law prevailing here. The casket 
is placed in a slanting position, banked all 
around with flowers and palms, and the friends 
or public can view the remains as they pass 
along. The old lady, who looked to me 90 or 
more, was dressed in white with wreath and 
veil; and the man in dress suit with all his 
military medals. I believe he was an old 
soldier. 

122 



From here we drove to the Forest Cemetery, 
the only one of its kind in Europe, located in 
the heart of the forest, and all classes except- 
ing- Jews are buried there. 

The floral decorations and lights were in 
profusion here, too, but a great many stones 
were draped with black tulle, and infants with 
white. An old soldier had just been buried 
and the band was returning playing the dead 
march. The men all wore silk hats and their 
medals, and every man in Munich has a black 
tie on to-day. The walks all the way were just 
crowded. I never saw anything like it. We 
thought the crowd that went to the aerodrome 
in Johannisthal big, but this was equally 
as large, and, having the carriage, we did not 
have the discomfort of the jam. Open cars 
were running and all motors carried two 
trailers. 

On our return to the city we drove around 
the King's summer places, and through some of 
the pretty 'Streets to the hotel, where we dis- 
pensed with the guide, as Tom didn't wish to 
remain out any longer. We wey$ a little sur 
prised to meet a priest going on a sick call with 
the acolytes ringing the bell and carrying the 
lighted candles. 

Tom is just asking me to go to the dining 
room, so I feel it is a good sign. He seems bet- 
ter to-day and more like himself. Hope 'all at 
home are well. I am extra fine myself and 
don't know what it is to have my side bother 
me. 



198 



November 2. 

It is Sunday and rather quiet, but another 
charming day. We have taken it rather easy ; 
in fact, for a few days, on Tom's account. Had 
a late breakfast and went to the church just 
opposite the hotel. Then we walked down the 
main street and saw a large crowd waiting to 
get into St. Michael's, so we piled in, too, to 
find a guard of honor on each side of the aisle, 
and we went two deep down into the Royal 
Vault, where a higher guard of honor was pro- 
tecting the remains of King Ludwig II. 

The flowers were perfectly grand; in fact, 
the whole tomb was decorated with palms and 
boxwood plants. 

St. Michael's is another very old edifice, be- 
gun in the 15th century as the Church of the 
Jesuit College. On the front is a bronze statue 
of St. Michael overcoming Satan, and in one 
of the transepts is the tomb of Josephine, wife 
of Napoleon I. 

From here we tried to return in time to see 
the change of guards. On asking a soldier, who 
happened to to speak English, we learned they 
would be in Residenz Str. We thanked him 
and it was too funny to see the salute we re- 
ceived. In a minute or two he came back to 
us and said he would accompany us, and w3 
accepted and went along. We had not gone 
far until our military friend spied an officer 
on the other side and it was most amusing to 
us to see him perform the goose step. And 
what nonsense ! An ordinary soldier certainly 
has my sympathy. He is saluting all the time. 
It was such a nice day that crowds of people 

124 



were out, and without coats. We saw more 
furs in Paris than we have seen anywhere since. 
I am hoping it will keep nice until we get out 
of Switzerland. The train we had booked for 
is cancelled, so it means we will have to leave 
earlier in the day in order to make our destina- 
tion before dark. Tom has just had a nap for 
two hours since lunch and he is calling "My 
dear May and Father, My dear May and 
Father." He always laughs, as he takes it for 
granted that is the heading of my letter. 

We are going out for 'another little walk 
by the way of a finish to our stay in Munich, 
and it will perhaps help Tom to enjoy dinner. 

With kindest remembrance to all our friends 
and love to yourselves. 



Hotel Metropole, 
Lucerne, Switzerland. 
November 3. 

Well, we are in another country and have 
had a very uneventful but pleasant day in 
making it. 

We were up when the porter knocked at 
6 a.m., even though it was dark, as we were 
leaving on the 7.25 a.m. train from Munich for 
Lindau, where we took the Prince Regent at 
11.45 to cross the lake to Romanshorn. Had 
lunch on the boat, >and as it was such a perfect- 
ly lovely day we were able to sit on deck and 
enjoy the scenery. It was quite a nice change 
to have this. The passengers were throwing 
bread to the big sea birds as they followed us, 

125 



and they could catch every piece without let- 
ting it go to the water. As usual, the Custom 
officers were in readiness on our entry, but we 
were again allowed to pass without the incon- 
venience of opening baggage. At 1.05 our train 
left for Zurich, and at 2.40 we had to change 
again for Lucerne, arriving at 4.50 p.m. The 
scenery in the different parts varied, and on 
departing from Zurich would remind one very 
much of Allandale, with B>arrie on the opposite 
shore, and almost everyone knows how pretty it 
is. The background here, of course, is much 
higher. 

Just as we were leaving Munich I received 
two letters, one from Maudie and Mrs. Martin, 
and a bundle of papers from you, Dollie, Mrs. 
Martin, and M. D., and they were particularly 
interesting to-day, as we had the time to glance 
at all. Thank Margaret for us, as she has been 
extra good in sending them. 

On our arrival I found a letter from you, 
Carrie, Mrs. Mason, and Miss McPherson wait- 
ing for me, and I must try to send even a 
short note in acknowledgement. 

We have just had dinner and it was very 
good, too. Tom is back to his old style and 
did justice to everything. 

My eyes are a little tired to-night from the 
sun all day, so will say no more until we re- 
turn from the mountains to-morrow. 



126 



November 4. 

We have been more than delighted with our 
day sightseeing in Lucerne and surroundings. 
We were up at 9 and started to sail for Vitznau 
on the Lake of the Four Cantons, where we 
took the steam tram up to Mount Rigi, 5,905 
feet above the sea, just one hour's climb, so 
you can imagine the height. The day was per- 
fect, warm enough to sit on deck, both going 
and returning, and it was clear enough to dis- 
cern everything, so we were able to appreciate 
and enjoy all. Tom was feeling so good, and I 
was delighted to see him take the luncheon 
with such relish that was waiting for us on ar- 
rival at 1.05, at Rigi-Klum, the terminus of the 
railway. Cook's had already advised the hotel 
of our intended visit for the day, which really 
should have been for two or three in order that 
we might have seen a sunrise and sunset from 
the mountain top, for they say the valleys and 
the Alps never appear to their best advantage 
unless the lakes and mountains are tinged with 
the gold and crimson of the sun. A little ear- 
lier would perhaps be more preferable, as it 
would be warmer, but then the trees with their 
dying foliage, depicting death and decay, is 
not so cheerful as spring or summer with life, 
but, nevertheless, we could not have had a 
clearer day. 

I really couldn't attempt to describe the 
grand prospect, words would not express it, 
but as we go on we are amazed at the natural 
and artificial beauty of the earth. 

G-oing up in the car we met a Presbyterian 
minister, Rev. H. GK Jones, of Melbourne, Aus- 

127 



tralia, who was interesting and attentive, and 
was particularly anxious to help me and see 
that I would not miss any of the white-capped 
peaks or mountain glaciers. He was continu- 
ally offering me his glasses. Tom had ours 
along, and they have been most useful on two 
or three occasions the races, the airship, and 
now the mountains. 

We left the mountain at 3.32 p.m., reaching 
the dock at 4.50, and were back in Lucerne at 
5.45. But in the me-antime we were told it 
commenced raining in Lucerne about 3 p.m., 
and now it is quite misty, so we have decided to 
leave to-morrow for Milan. Tom is afraid of 
the dampness. It is strange how chilly he feels 
in the different temperatures, and I am too 
warm. 

To give you a little idea of Lucerne, I might 
say it is very centrally located in Switzerland, 
within easy reach of the mountains, and is 
practically a metropolis of the traveling public, 
full of hotels making their living from the 
tourists. 

The enclosed card shows a cut of the Lion 
of Lucerne, dedicated to the memory of fallen 
soldiers in 1792. It is rather impressive, show- 
ing the wounded lion defending even in death 
the charge entrusted to him. 

The Kursaal is one of the attractions, for 
promenade, five o'clock tea, and classical con- 
certs. The Cathedral is also very fine, and the 
station is another rather important place. The 
town, too, is full of very attractive shops, with 
all kinds of souvenirs and jewelry. 

Many attractive one-day excursions can be 

128 



made from Lucerne, <and I would love to have 
had the time to have seen more of this magnifi- 
cent scenery, rich in associations with the lives 
of William Tell, Wagner, and Frederick 
Schiller. 

Well, May, I have letters from Dollie and 
E. McC., which I must try to acknowledge. 

I am sorry I won't be home for the alumnae 
dinner, but I hope you will go. 



Continental Hotel, Milan, 
November 5. 

We have just finished dinner, and if I like 
Milan as well it will be quite pleasant and 
agreeable. Our train brought us in about 3.30, 
after six hours' ride through the most pictur- 
esque part of Switzerland, and it was indeed 
very beautiful, and the construction or engi- 
neering of the St. Gothard Railway is a wonder 
in itself. It must have taken an immense sum 
of money to build, for there are miles of tunnels, 
and it took twenty minutes to pass through the 
longest. After leaving Lucerne we passed 
quickly through one tunnel after another, 
sometimes into luxuriant meadows, with 
their pretty little villas or farm houses, and 
often charming glimpses of the lake and moun- 
tains were to be seen. Many of the places on 
the way are very interesting for the Canadian 
tourist, as the inhabitants still retain some of 
their primitive customs. Then the desolation 
of some of the small villages embedded between 
the rocky mountains presents such a contrast. 
The height of the St. Gothard Pass is 6,866 feet. 

129 



Dollie said in one of her letters to Mrs. 
Dandy, "the folks at home do not believe, or 
rather cannot realize, the many beautiful 
things and sights they have seen," and I quite 
understand no one can until they make the 
trip. The day was perfect and Tom is feeling 
so much better I feel quite relieved. It is 
warmer here and that is what he likes. He had 
a little puff at the pipe to-night. 

We have quite a nice room on the first floor, 
convenient to lift. 

At the present time there is a big celebra- 
tion in honor of the 100th anniversary of the 
composer Verdi, and a company of the leading 
talent is producing the work. Tom has just 
come to tell me he has tickets for "Aida" to- 
night, and I am so glad, as this is the only one 
I was particularly anxious to hear. 

I have not any more news for to-night. Will 
write you more fully to-morrow, telling you of 
our visit. 

Had a very nice letter from E. D. just as 
we were leaving Lucerne and I must send off 
a hurried reply. 

We had our baggage passed at the Italian 
border without any bother. 



November 6. 

We have finished our day of sightseeing in 
Milan, and it has proved to be much nicer than 
we expected. One's first impression on arriv- 
ing at the depot is not so good after leaving all 
the beautiful and clean stations of Germany 
Even at the Italian border we could notice 

130 






immediately the change in the conductor's 
makeup. The porters around the station all 
wear a blue loose jacket or a kind of slip one 
might call it. 

The production of "Aida" was perfectly 
wonderful and we enjoyed every minute of the 
three and a half hours. We were fortunate 
enough to meet Mr. and Mrs. Clare, a young 
American couple, who were making a honey- 
moon trip around the world, who had seats 
with us, and we were amused at the outburst 
of " Bravo, Bravo," instead of the clapping of 
the hands for the applause. The La Scala opera 
house is very beautiful, and the first gallery 
contains private boxes all around, something 
similar to the big Hammerstein house in Lon- 
don, and accommodates 3,600. 

Anyone who can make his debut in the 
Opera House in Milan with success has made 
his fame, and just now there is the second 
Caruso singing in this company. 

Milan, like a great many other European 
cities, is very interesting historically, and is 
really a city of churches and theatres, and is 
the third city of Italy. 

This morning when our guide came we 
started with the Cathedral, which is right near 
the hotel, and it is the first church we have seen 
in which there are no benches, for the reason 
that they follow the ritual of St. Ambrose and 
not the Roman, whose belief it was that in pray- 
ing or speaking to God one should be in a 
standing position. Benches are too comfortable, 
perhaps. However, it is so long since its found- 
ation, they may not have been enlightened to 

131 



that accommodation, and it has remained the 
same up to the present time. 

The whole of the building is composed of 
white marble, the architecture entirely Gothic 
with the exception of the front, is in the shape 
of a Latin cross, 486 feet long and 288 feet 
across. The thickness of walls is 8 feet. 

The smallest detail is well worthy of atten- 
tion, and it would take years to be fully satis- 
fied in seeing all. Almost three thousand 
statues decorate the interior and exterior of the 
temple. The pavement or the floor is laid in 
mosaic, composed of different colors. The win- 
dows, 500 years old, are superb in color; Con- 
fessionals beautifully carved in oak. In front 
of the High Altar is an opening surrounded by 
brass railing, which gives light to the sepulchral 
chapel beneath of St. Charles Boromeo, whose 
remains are to be seen clothed in his ecclesias- 
tical vestments. 

A most magnificent cross of emeralds and 
diamonds hangs in the middle of this little 
shrine, the gift of Empress Maria Theresa; in 
fact, the whole value of the chapel, including 
the golden crown, pastoral staff, full of precious 
stones, statues, etc., is estimated at $300,000. 

In the sacristy is an endless quantity of pre- 
cious things remarkable for their antiquity, and 
there are two large statues in silver of St. 
Charles and St. Ambrose, in their pontifical 
robes. 

It just happens that there is a twelve-day 
celebration in honor of the feast of St. Charles, 
the patron saint of the province, and the Cath- 
edral is specially decorated for the occasion. 

182 



With the exception of St. Peter's, in Rome, 
it is the most magnificent ecclesiastical struc- 
ture in Italy. Within it Napoleon was crowned 
Kiing in 1805. 

From here we went to the Palace of Arts 
and Sciences, formerly the Jesuit castle, and 
now used for displaying the 700 pictures to be 
seen. In my humble opinion, the decoration or 
color of the walls did not suit the place, the 
light was poor and a very dull grey on the 
walls did not improve it any. However, while 
the work displayed is, no doubt, excellent, still 
there is something about it that does not im- 
press one to linger. One of Raffaello's master- 
pieces is very conspicuously shown and is 
worthy of admiration. You will remember I 
told you we saw one of his in Dresden, "The 
Madonna." This is the marriage of St. Joseph 
and the Blessed Virgin, I am enclosing a copy 
and you might keep it for me. 

After lunch we started about 2 o'clock and 
we drove to a very ancient castle, ' l Sf orzesco, ' ' 
built many years ago, and which is used now 
for displaying precious stones, etc., a sort of 
museum ; and then to the first Christian church, 
built in 386, where St. Ambrose baptized St. 
Augustine, and the doors of which St. Ambrose 
closed against Theodosius. It was interesting 
to know at that time they had no material 
for building purposes, and it was not until the 
Pagan temples were destroyed had they ma- 
terial for the Christian church. The pillars even 
now show engravings of Pagan gods. 

To the old Dominican church or monastery 

133 



to see the famous ''Last Supper," by Da Vinci, 
in its refectory. 

And to the Amphitheatre, built in 1806 by 
Napoleon, who was then King of Italy and Em- 
peror of France, and which is used for bicyc- 
ling, horse racing, pigeon shooting, skating, 
balloon ascensions, in fact for all sports. 

Through the Triumphal Arch to the Park 
and Cemetery, where we saw the greatest sculp- 
ture work. The guide informed us it is the 
finest in Europe for the purpose for which it is 
used. There is a very notable cemetery in 
Genoa, and it remains for us to pass our opinion 
later. Mr. Hughes, a friend of Mr. and Mrs. 
Dodd, whom we met, spoke so particularly of 
the cemetery in Gpenoa and told us not to 
miss it. 

Only the rich are buried here and, according 
to the laws or regulations, the estate or friends 
are compelled to have something in artistic 
sculpture erected, characteristic of the person, 
before the expiration of twenty years. Other- 
wise, through any reduction in circumstances 
or neglect, this is not done, the bodies are lifted 
out of these beautiful marble or granite cases 
plenty fine enough for anyone; in fact, some 
Royalty have not any better and put in a 
small box on a shelf in the mortuary, with the 
name very plainly shown on a little square 
marble piece. The monuments in the Toronto 
cemeteries are very ordinary in comparison. 

Then we went a little further, to the Crema- 
tory, and the wagon on which the body is 
wheeled into the furnace was being cleaned off, 
and was quite hot. Two had just been cremated. 

m 



We saw the three models of furnaces, the 
first used taking two hours, second 40 minutes, 
and the new 25 for cremation. The ashes are put 
in a little wooden or marble box, according to 
whatever one can afford, and put on a shelf 
in the large vault. In the burning the fire does 
not reach the body, just bakes it, and then 
when the air is allowed in it falls to dust. 

Now, I think I have told all we have seen 
in this city of 600,000 people, perhaps the 
richest commercially in Italy. The streets in 
the older part, that is the business section, are 
very narrow, and traffic sometimes is very much 
congested. 

By the way, there is another thing worthy 
of mention, the famous arcade, or Galleria di 
Cristofers, with its brilliant shops and cafe, 
built many years ago by a prosperous company 
with the idea of having something exclusive or 
rather attractive, so that other cities would 
copy. Naples, however, I believe, is the only 
one that can boast of such a fine piece of work. 

It is really a great rendezvous for certain 
classes. In the morning it is the musicians ; at 
noon, business people ; and in the afternoon the 
usual 5 o'clock tea crowd, and on account of its 
gay appearance has often been called "Little 
Paris." 

While driving I saw the gardeners were 
still busy cutting the grass around the monu- 
ments and in the parks. Just think of it, the 
6th of November and the men wearing straw 
hats. And in another part we noticed how busy 
everyone was decorating for the big Midway 
Pair, which opens on Sunday. 

135 



Did I tell you the style at the opera was 
wonderful, and there is nothing slow about the 
Italians. They can smoke the cigarettes with 
their French neighbors and lavish the perfume 
and jewels to extreme. 

It was so funny last night when we came 
out of the theatre, just a half-minute or two 
from the hotel, we walked past the Continental. 
Every place was dark, and, busily talking, 
we didn't notice until we thought we had 
gone too far. However, when we came back 
we found the big gate of the driveway to the 
court closed, and we had to ring for the 
porter. It is customary to close at 12 p.m. 

Well, it is getting late again to-night, and 
Tom is already snoring; this is one thing he is 
getting the best of me on this trip sleep. I 
am usually writing and he has a good start. 

We are leaving in the morning for Venice. 
We just heard to-day of a terrible head-on 
collision on the fast express from Marseilles to 
Paris. 



Grand Hotel, Venice. 
November 7. 

We are in Venice, the Queen of the Adria- 
tic, having arrived at 2.15 p.m., after seven 
hours' ride in the train. Cook's man, who was 
right there to meet us, had our baggage put in 
the gondola, and we started through the water 
alleys to the hotel on the Grand Canal. We 
were soon settled, and have a very pretty room 

136 



on the waterfront on first floor with bath, hot 
and cold water. 

We go out with the guide in the morning 
and then I will be able to give you some descrip- 
tive information. 

Before dinner we took a little walk up and 
down the bridges, through the narrow street 
passages, to St. Mark 's Piazza, where there are 
many shops, filled with precious stones, neck- 
laces, pearls, glassware, painted vases, mosaics, 
and other Venetian curiosities. For the lady 
tourist who comes to Venice there are many 
new sights and observations, 'and while admir- 
ing them in astonishment and wonder, flocks 
of pigeons come and rest on one's shoulders. 
I think there were eight that tried to sit on my 
arm begging for corn, which is sold in specially 
prepared cornets. 

In bygone days the pigeons were used for 
carrying the mails or messages, and at noon 
they pulled the bell and at the last ding dong 
flew to the windows to be fed. 

This square, with its antiquated buildings, 
and the Church of St. Mark, look as if we 
should have rather an interesting time visiting 
them to-morrow. Almost at every step one sees 
scenes reminding them of pictures or drop cur- 
tains so often shown with the Italian troupes 
in vaudeville. 

It is getting time to 'eat and I am hoping 
there will be something tempting, as I am very 
hungry. On the train for luncheon the 
spaghatti was on the bill of fare. 



137 



November 8. 

This has been a most satisfactory day with 
regard to sightseeing, and a nicer day as far 
as the weather was concerned we could not have 
had. It was perfectly lovely, just like a June 
day in Toronto. The guide was- an Al person, 
could speak the English language .fluently, as 
well as four others. He has had a great deal of 
travel experiences with an Italian duke, who 
visited Toronto, Montreal, and Quebec : in fact, 
he crossed the whole of Canada with him. J. 
Pierpont Morgan was another he traveled with 
as interpreter in the Eastern countries. We 
were indeed very fortunate in having him, as 
he was Venetian born, and knew the place to 
perfection. As an Italian he was quite the 
opposite to what I expected, being spotlessly 
clean, nice looking, and thoroughly well man- 
nered. I was a little surprised to know that his 
daughter, a young lady about 19 years, dresses 
in the native style, wearing a fancy shawl over 
her head. Very few wear hats. One son is an 
officer with the Italian navy and has a splendid 
position. 

Our morning consisted of visiting the 
churches, the old palaces, the glass, and lace 
works. 

The Church of St. Mark is of a magnificent 
Byzantine Oriental design, made of gold and 
colored mosaics and rich columns of marble. 

The Palace of the Doges or Kings is another 
beautiful and perhaps one of the original pal- 
aces in the world. It was erected in 1463, and 
the irregularity of the windows adds character 

138 



of originality. It is now used as an archaeo- 
logical museum, and still possesses many beau- 
tiful decorations. In the hall of the Great Coun- 
cil is a picture by Tintoretto, 70 ft. x 24 ft., a 
powerful work of beauty for its size and num- 
ber of figures. Leaving there, we came to the 
Laguna, with its two immense columns, another 
valuable piece of work, with the winged lion 
on top. And further on is a superb clock, 
which points the hours, the phases of the moon, 
and during a festival week a figure preceded 
by an angel comes out and bows to the Ma- 
donna on a throne above the dial. The Piazza 
of St. Mark is really where the Venetian life 
is spent, the people mingling, according to their 
class and fancy, for afternoon teas, etc., and 
the band concerts. 

In some parts the streets are so narrow that 
one is obliged to walk slowly, especially on the 
way to the fish market. There are 390 canals, 
or water streets as I would call them. 

The Academy of Fine Arts, an ex-monastery, 
was our next place to visit, and to the 
Italian or person who understands or knows 
the history or thoughts of the artist in each 
picture, many a pleasant and interesting 
hour could be spent in all these places for 
the admiration of each. Many date back 
before the discovery of America. Tiziano, one 
of the greatest painters of his time, has a won- 
derful masterpiece, shown in the academy, 
"The Blessed Virgin Ascending in Heaven." 

The Arsenal forms a city by itself, and its 
entrance is guarded by four huge lions of 
marble which were taken from Athens by the 

139 



Venetians in some victory. It contains models 
of the men-of-war and an interesting collection 
of war arms of every time. 

We have another day here and prospects 
look very favorable for nice weather. 

There are a number of English-speaking 
people waiting for the sailing of a large 
steamer for the East. Beside me is an old lady 
trying to tell me of her experience in taking 
aspirin, so I will not be able to write any more 
to-night. 



November 9. 

Our visit to Venice will soon be at an end ; 
in fact, it is as far as any further sightseeing 
is concerned. We finished with the guide 
about 5 p.m., and were more than satisfied. 
But I will be glad to leave, as the mosquitoes 
are terrible and I have not been able to sleep. 

The hotel is very fine and nice, being at one 
time a palace of some noble family, and has 
since been converted into a hotel along with the 
three adjoining buildings. It is situated on 
the Grand Canal, and when going to the station 
you enter the gondola at the front entrance. 

Venice is really a collection of islands, con- 
nected with a great many bridges, and built on 
80,000 stakes of filled in land, and the only 
city where cremation is compulsory. There are 
numerous and frequent gondolas, giving a ser- 
vice till late at night, and the rear of the houses 
or apartments of the poorer classes usually faces 
the water alleys. The Grand Canal is the prin- 

140 



cipal roadway and is constructed in the shape 
of a big S. This is, no doubt, the only place in 
the world that exists without an auto or a horse. 
If I remember rightly, motors are forbidden to 
enter Mackinaw, but they have plenty of horses. 
There are neither here, and I was surprised to 
find all the gondolas painted black. I had im- 
agined they were usually painted very con- 
spicuously in gay colors. 

The churches and palaces are numerous, 
there being thirty or more of the former, 
beautifully decorated and adorned with the 
finest of sculpture work. 

We took advantage of this perfectly lovely 
day, after mass in St. Mark's, by going out 
in the gondola. In the afternoon we took 
the ferry to Lido, the most fashionable bath- 
ing and summer resort of the vicinity. The 
two large hotels are beautifully situated over- 
looking the Adriatic, and everything imagin- 
able is to be had for the entertainment and com- 
fort of the guests. The sea, which was so per- 
fectly calm, looked lovely, and the big steamer 
that has been in the harbor for several days will 
have a pleasant beginning to its voyage to 
Egypt. Tom and I both felt very much like 
going, as there were so many starting from 
the Grand. I still notice that the Atlantic 
steamers are experiencing rough passages, the 
Lusitania encountering waves 50 feet high, and 
the big new Imperator late in docking on 
account of the hurricane. I hope it will all be 
over before we sail. 

The gondolas, with their fancy lights and 
street singers, are at the front of the hotel, giv- 

141 



ing the evening concert for the collection of 
small change, and some of them have rather 
nice voices. 

We are leaving to-morrow for Florence 
along with Mr. and Mrs. Smith, of California. 
They occupy the room next to us and we have 
been amused, on retiring, to hear his heavy bass 
voice say "Good night, dearie, I will see you 
in the morning." They have had the pleasure 
of an airship ride in Berlin at the cost of $50, 
and he would not sacrifice the experience for 
twice fifty. Tom and he have been enjoying a 
cigar together, and I am so glad Tom is feeling 
so good. He was real miserable for three 
weeks, but he is back to his old game of teasing. 
For instance, at dinner to-night some ladies 
were making a fuss about a mouse, and when 
all was quiet and the mouse forgotten, Tom 
touched me gently with his toe and I gave such 
a jump, thinking it was the little rascal, I al- 
most upset the table. Everyone in the dining 
room certainly enjoyed the joke. It is just like 
something he would do. 

I received a letter from Mrs. Fairbairn this 
evening, also a bundle of papers from Margaret, 

Well, as I have to get our baggage together, 
will say farewell until another day. 



Hotel Florence Washington, Florence. 
November 10. 

Yesterday I had a newsy letter from 
Maudie, and she is evidently worrying that 
I would not be able to eat in Italy. She 

142 



has been wrongly informed, as we have had 
one of the best meals in this hotel, and anyone 
who had any fault to find must have been 
eating in some inexpensive restaurant, such 
as you find in all cities. For instance, for din- 
ner last night we had soup, turkey, small onions 
and chestnuts, which are so often served with 
the meat course ; hare or rabbit, ice cream, let- 
tuce salad, and finished with grapes, apples, 
pears and figs. Could you want any more or 
better? 

It is grand, just like June, and the Eng- 
lish people are coming in large numbers 
to spend the weeks intervening between now 
and Christmas. Yesterday was the birth- 
day of the King of Italy, and the anniver- 
sary of some great battle long ago in which the 
Italians were victorious, and there were great 
doings. A military review took place in the 
park and avenue, which reminded us so much 
of Queen's Avenue. The inspection was by the 
general of the Italian army, and he could well 
afford to be proud of his men in command, as 
we considered it one of the finest sights we have 
ever seen in regimental uniforms 5,000 men, 
1,000 horses, and a corps on bicycles. The horses 
were grand and so well trained, just pranced 
to the music. In fact, the atmosphere was so 
full of music it was really hard to keep quiet. 
It seemed to instill within us a military or sol- 
dierly feeling and we felt like marching. 
The discipline, too, was very noticeable. For 
instance, when the spectators were told to 
keep in line they did so, and did not rush 
out as soon as the officer passed. When the 

143 



company of the regiment came along that had 
just returned from Libya (I think that is the 
name), carrying the remnants of the flag in 
the struggle with the Turks, great respect was 
shown. Every hat was raised, officers and sol- 
diers saluted, and great cheering and clapping 
was to be heard all along the line. 

The officers were neatly dressed in navy 
blue coat, light blue trousers, and sash, red 
stripe, brass buttons, and all presented a very 
fine effect with shining swords in the sunshine. 

And later on in the afternoon, from 5 to 6, 
we listened to the six massed bands playing in 
the square, and enjoyed "Aida" again. Just 
think how nice it is to be able to sit out in the 
open on the llth of November, to hear the 
band concert. In fact, it is so warm to-day I 
had to put on my moire suit instead of the 
heavy one. 

I am sorry I haven 't time to write any more, 
as we are leaving in a little while for Borne. 
It is now 12.15 and I have to take lunch. 

Will tell you more of our visit later on. 

Hoping you are well and with love. 



Grand Continental Hotel, Rome. 
November 12. 

Since leaving Venice on Monday I have not 
had much time for writing. 

We were up early, had breakfast and com- 
pleted arrangements for leaving, arrived in the 
gondola at the depot in good time for our train 
departure at 10.15 a.m. Biding through some 

144 



very picturesque but rough country, we came 
to Florence at 5.15, to find the weather good 
and an extra fine dinner waiting for us. 

We had a very nice room overlooking the 
river or canal, and with its string of lights all 
along made it very effective. It was so warm 
we had to sleep with the window doors leading 
to the balcony open all night. There were no 
mosquitoes, fortunately, and I rested comfort- 
ably. Our visit in Florence was very pleasant 
and we enjoyed every minute of it, and 
the guide, who was so good and gentlemanly, 
did everything to make it so. In every case 
the carriage and guide is for us exclusively. 
No one else is allowed to make use of him, 
and he always drives with us, pointing out the 
smallest detail of interest, so that we feel sure 
that we have missed very little. It is much 
ahead of party traveling, and we have become 
now so accustomed to him that Tom calls him 
his aide-de-camp, for he always carries my 
coat and gives us the most agreeable attention. 

I received eleven letters in Florence, in- 
cluding three from you, two from Dollie, three 
from E. McC., two from Mrs. Martin, one each 
from Maudie, E. D. and Ollie, all of which we 
thoroughly enjoyed, and your papers with a 
card from Mamie Dickson are being fully 
appreciated by Tom. 

We met Mr. and Mrs. Wm. A. Fleming, of 
Flint, Michigan, and Mr. Fleming is on his 
eleventh trip to Italy, and this one his honey- 
moon. Is it not strange when and where people 
meet. He told us he knew Brother Columbia, 
of Notre Dame, Indiana, and his mother was 

145 



one of the first to contribute to the "Ave 
Maria." We also met Capt. Pratt, of the U. S. 
Cavalry, who was traveling south with his 
mother to Naples, from where they sail for 
New York. They were very jolly and we en- 
joyed the train ride with them. Time passes 
so quickly with interesting company. On com- 
ing into the dining room to-night we met Dr. 
and Mrs. Pelletier, and they were so pleased to 
see us again. The doctor is a Canadian, but 
Mrs. Pelletier an American. 

We found Florence very interesting and 
very prettily situated in a valley surrounded 
by hills, forming a beautiful landscape. It has 
some 250,000 inhabitants, and is the home and 
birthplace of many well known artists and 
sculptors, and even to-day it is crowded with 
people of renowned art, and the little work- 
shops in the narrow streets are busy producing 
copies of ancient antiquity for sale in the nu- 
merous small shops. 

The Art Gallery is filled with a priceless col- 
lection and affords unlimited resources to those 
interested. Mementos of great men, such as 
Dante. Michael Angelo, and the Medici family, 
are f.umd all through the city. In the after- 
noon we drove to the Michael Angelo Terrace, 
where a fine view of the city and surrounding 
country is to be seen. On our way up an old 
man, bent over with age, was begging for cop- 
pers, and the guide told us he had already been 
arrested several times and even served a term 
for this offence, as he is well off and owns good 
business property. In Paris we met another 

146 



beggar of the same type, but he traveled in a 
little wheeled cart. 

We then drove to the Cathedral, which is 
very attractive for its beautifully engraved 
bronze doors; the Church of Santa Croce, con- 
taining the tomb of Michael Angelo and other 
distinguished men. 

"We also visited the mosaic factory, and be- 
fore dinner I took a walk to look at some of the 
shop windows. 



November 13. 

Have just come in after finishing with the 
guide our first day in Rome and I almost feel 
brain-fagged from the enormity of sights to be 
seen. Rome has more to show the tourist than 
all the rest of the world, and its buildings are 
of every age, going back, not only to the dawn 
of Christianity, but to the dawn of Rome itself. 

In the fifth century began the Byzantine 
architecture, for instance, S. Maria Maggiore, 
and then in the 15th came Renaissance, rich in 
sculpture, and in the 16th the love of the im- 
mense, and it was in this era that new St. 
Peter's 1 and the other enormous domed churches 
were built. 

There are also many attractions for every 
diversity of taste, but for the Catholic Rome 
is really the citadel of God's kingdom on earth, 
and for this reason it is their pleasure to do 
homage to the Vicar of Christ. The hallowed 
associations and veneration which linger 
around the spot on earth chosen by G-od cannot 

147 



be to others what it is to those who come as 
pilgrims. 

It is quite true more has been written of 
Rome than any other place in the world, but I 
should never end if I were to tell you of all the 
monuments, churches, both pagan and Christian 
antiquity, that make it the most precious city 
of the Old World. It would take volumes alone 
for a detail of the Vatican treasures, and every 
church, palace, etc., has its priceless works of 
art. 

We first went to St. Peter's, the queen of 
churches, and when the heavy leather curtains 
that hang in the doorway were thrown aside 
for us to enter I was struck with astonishment 
at the architecture, sculpture and painting, 
done by the mightiest geniuses the world has 
ever seen. 

The Vatican is a world in itself, and it would 
take many visits to form a proper idea of its 
immensity. Its collections of palaces, museums, 
libraries, treasures of art, etc., are wonderful, 
and the Louvre and Versailles could not com- 
pare with it. 

It also contains many chapels, and the Sis- 
tine Chapel, which is used for occasional papal 
ceremonies, was closed to visitors, as prepara- 
tions were being made for the anniversary of 
the coronation of the present Pope. 

We then drove to St. John Lateran, the 
Pope's Cathedral, which ranks first in dignity, 
and takes preced'uce over St. Peter's, as all 
Popes up to 1870 were crowned and solemnly 
proclaimed the Holy Father. This service is, 
however, no longer performed outside the Vat- 

148 



lean, and the Pope is confined entirely to the 
precincts of his palace since that time. 

The high altar, the Papal altar, -at which the 
Pope alone may say mass, has a splendid 
canopy, and in a recess above is preserved the 
sacred table of the Last Supper, on which our 
Divine Lord instituted the Blessed Sacrament. 
Many Popes are buried there. 

Very 'dose to the Lateran palace is a sanc- 
tuary in charge of the Passionist Order, con- 
taining the Scala Santa, or the Holy Stairs, 
consisting of 28 or 30 marble steps, taken from 
the house of Pilate, and ascended and descended 
by our Blessed Lord. St. Helen, mother of Con- 
stantine, had them brought from Jerusalem, and 
they have been given great reverence for a long 
time. 

About 5.30 p.m. we went to the Canadian 
College and were fortunate enough to find Rev. 
John Cruise at home. "We spent an hour and 
a half very pleasantly with him, and he asked 
us to return on Saturday and he would tell us 
when we could have an audience with His 
Holiness. 

The soldiers of the American or U. S. fleet, 
had an audience yesterday, and there is to be a 
special ceremony on Sunday. 

We are fortunate enough to have another 
beautiful room, and the meals so far are first 
class. Of course, this is a very good time to be 
in Italy. The weather is perfect, just beautiful, 
and the flower beds of 'mums and salvia are 
as pretty as anything in June. The streets are 
very crowded. 

There were two or three pilgrimages visit- 

149 



ing the churches to-day and it was interesting 
to see the different costumes of the peasants. 

I have just received your letter of the 31st 
ult., which has taken 13 days to reach me. Let 
ters came also from Nellie Coulson and Miss R. 
McVey. I think Mr. Brick's disposition of 
property very nice. It showed his appreciation 
for his family and a very nice spirit and com- 
pliment to his first wife. 

Tom is calling me for dinner. Hope you are 
keeping well. 



November 15. 

While waiting for the guide, after break- 
fast seems to be my time for writing, and is 
therefore usually very limited; in fact. I find 
Rome too much for me to express myself. 

There is an old donkey, hitched to a two- 
wheeled cart, standing on the depot side of the 
hotel, and about 5.30 in the morning he makes 
the most awful noise braying. At first I was 
quite startled, and got up just in time to see 
him stretching his neck for more force. I felt 
like throwing something at it. He has done 
this every morning, and I will never forget the 
Roman donkey. 

Received four packages of papers yesterday 
which have followed us from Milan and Venice 
from M. D., Ollie, and two from you. 

We intended going to Tivoli this morning, 
but as the sky is very heavy and forecasts rain, 
we may arrange it for another day. 

150 



We had a bVsy day yesterday, and at 
the finish I was vey sleepy and went to bed at 
9 o'clock, the earliest I have even attempted for 
a long time, but a jgood sleep occasionally helps 
a lot. It is tiresome climbing stairs, and some 
days we get so much of it. 

We called to see Brother Columbia's friend, 
Rev. Mr. Marshall, who is studying for the 
priesthood here, and whom we found exception- 
ally nice, and he will be very sorry if we do not 
allow him to -show us around. Tom and he en- 
joyed a cigar together as his hospitality and we 
arranged to spend part of a day with him. 

The soldiers of the American navy are every- 
where, and with so many stopping here it has 
turned the hotel into a little American colony. 
They are all such nice young men, and Tom 
is quite at home with them. He is tired of the 
foreign language. Capt. Pratt and his mother, 
with a few others who have been traveling right 
along with us, are sailing on the Berlin from 
Naples on the 18th. We may be down there 
in time to see them off. 

Quite a scandal has been committed in the 
U. S. battleship harbouring at Marseilles. 

The soldiers, about 400, who were to visit 
Prance and come on to Rome for an audience 
with the Pope, gave their money to the chap- 
lain, Father Ranny (I think that is the name), 
and in turn he entrusted it to an Italian, who 
was to have a special train for them, and he 
has skipped off with the money. Rev, Mr. Mar- 
shall told us this when visiting him, and I have 
read it again in the N. Y. Paris Herald. 

Tom thinks it quite a joke because I received 

151 



a letter from the Roman Society for the Pro 
tection of Animals from Cruelty 

Will have to go. Will finish later. It is 
almost 9.30. 



Saturday, Nov. 15. 

We have just had lunch and I can't help 
wondering, as I read Maudie's letter, where she 
got the idea that I would not be able to eat 
in Rome. The meals and weather are all we 
could desire, and we are getting the most lus- 
cious fruit at every meal. As a rule the Italian 
chefs, in fact, all over Europe, cook the vege- 
tables, celery included, but if one tells the 
waiter or the man in charge not to cook your 
share you can have it served as you desire. The 
menus are put in a conspicuous place, so 
that one has a fair idea of what is on for lun- 
cheon or dinner. Speaking of the water, I may 
say we have been drinking it all along, and I 
much prefer it to the Italian wines. As far as 
I can see, it is a mistaken idea with tourists. 
We have liked it everywhere, and particularly 
in Rome, and in Venice it was excellent. 

We did not go to Tivoli on account of the 
weather, very fortunately, for just after we 
started out a heavy shower fell, but it only 
lasted about five minutes, and since then it has 
been beautiful. 

We drove out to the Church of the Three 
Fountains, where St. Paul suffered martyrdom, 
and when the head of the Apostle was severed 

152 



it is said to have made three leaps or bounds, 
and a fountain of clear water sprang up. 

The Trappist monks have a monastery 
there, as well as a plantation- of eucalyptus, 
and they make chocolate and a liqueur called 
Euealyptine, and all tourists usually take a 
small glass. I can tell you I felt mine burning 
or stinging all the way down. The church is 
very interesting from the age standpoint, hav- 
ing been built many centuries ago, and gives 
one an idea of the early churches. 

Since commencing to write I have received 
some more letters, two from Mrs. Martin, E. 
McC., Mrs. Williams, Miss McPherson, and a 
bundle of papers from M. D., and as I have 
spent a great deal of time perusing them it is 
time to go with the guide. 



November 15. 

We have had a beautiful afternoon, visiting 
more of the churches, including St. Sebastine, 
an hour's drive along the Appian Way, which 
we found full of interest and has been a place 
of pilgrimage for a long time. We also 
went to the Catacombs, or, rather, the sub- 
terranean city of Italy, but to me it was a 
weird sensation when we descended into the 
darkness with a lighted taper and a very few 
moments was enough. There are a great many 
around Rome and those usually visited are St. 
Calixtus, St. Domitilla, and St. Agnes. In 
principle most of them are similar, and unique 

153 



with underground passages with chapels open- 
ing off them. The Christians were not only 
buried, but lived in them in the years of perse- 
cution, when the tyrants who swayed the des- 
tinies of Rome resorted to every means of 
cruelty to stamp out Christianity. In the walls 
are recesses of five or six feet long, arranged 
in three or four tiers, and they contain frescoes 
of saints and martyrs, and even bones very 
much perished. The ancient Romans always 
built their tombs outside the city on the prin- 
cipal roads, and that is why the Via Appian, 
being the chief, was so much favored; and 
multitudes of holy pilgrims rejoice in the vision 
of God having passed this way. 

Then to St. Paul's, which, outside the walls, 
is the third in rank of the great Roman basil- 
icas. Its style is simple and extremely majestic, 
but its marbles are superb. 

St. Maria Maggiori, which is only a few min- 
utes' walk from the hotel, in the heart of the 
city, still retains its antiquity, and the feast of 
the miraculous snowfall is commemorated every 
year on August 5th by a shower of white 
leaves from the dome during high mass. 

We also visited St. Croce, one of the seven 
basilicas, to which the great indulgences are 
attached, and which was founded by St. Helen, 
mother of Constantine, the first Christian Em- 
press. 

And the Coliseum, an immense ruin, full of 
wild flowers, grass or weeds, is, as every part 
of Rome, sacred because it has been reddened 
with the blood of martyrs, and for this reason 
it is especially holy. And in wandering 

154 



through it is hard to imagine a Roman holiday 
being spent in having so many shed their blood 
and in wild excitement yell "The Christians to 
the lions." What a horrible spectacle it must 
have been ! We saw the dens where the animals 
were kept and the cells where the good mar- 
tyrs remained in prayer to give up their lives 
so heroically for the faith they dearly loved. 

Quite near the Colosseum are the remains of 
the triumphal arch of Constantine, which was 
raised to his commemoration for some victory. 

The Pantheon comes, too, in its place of 
importance, and is practically perfect. It is 
circular in form, and its dome, the model of the 
greatest in the world, is open through to the 
sky, and the entrance is made through an elab- 
orate porch. It is no longer the Church of St. 
Mary of Martyrs, to whom it was dedicated, 
but used as a mausoleum for Royalty. 

The number of sarcophagus in all the 
churches, in fact throughout Europe, is remark- 
able, and the tomb of Cardinal Newman, by 
Girardon, in Paris, is particularly handsome. 

We finished our afternoon by calling again 
to see Father Cruise, as requested, but he was 
out and had not returned at 7 p.m., when we 
left for the hotel. We met Father Leo 'Reilly, 
of Toronto, who is studying for some degree, 
and we spent a very pleasant hour with him, 
while he interested us with his experiences to 
the Holy Land in the summer. 



155 



Monday, Nov. 15, 10 p.m. 

It is just now I have been able to make an 
attempt to finish this letter. We wf>re very 
busy Sunday, and, being at Tivoli all day, I 
didn't get a chance of writing. 

On Sunday we went to mass to St. Mary 
Maggiori and from there to the Canadian Col- 
lege, where we spent the remainder of the 
morning with Fathers Cruise and O'Reilly. By 
the way, I forgot to tell you we met the Rev. 
Father Perrin, the Superior, a Canadian from 
Montreal, to whom Father Kelly had very 
kindly sent us a letter of introduction before 
leaving home. 

In the afternoon we drove to Via Cappuccini, 
where Rev. Father Marshall is living, and he 
came out with us to visit some of the smaller 
churches. 

We had a most glorious day at Tivoli, and, 
having four U. S. naval officers with two guides, 
I received heaps of attention and had a beauti- 
ful bouquet of roses to bring home to dinner. 

We left Rome at 9.30 by steam car arriving 
at Tivoli about 11 a.m., where two carriages 
were waiting for us, and drove to Villa 
d'Este, the palace of Cardinal d'Este, built 
in the year 1500, but now owned by the Grand 
Duke Ferdinand of Austria. Of course, it is 
practically a ruin, but the gardens are won- 
derfully beautiful. Terrace after terrace 
rises from the lower part up to the huge palace, 
whose severe simplicity of design presents an 
admirable contrast to the elaborate gardens, 
and had they been in their original state of 
preservation they would, I believe, have been 

156 



the nicest we have seen. The grape vines, too, 
are extraordinary, and the chief products of 
Tivoli are wine and olive oil. We then drove 
around this interesting old town to the oppo- 
site side, to view the waterfalls amidst the 
beautiful scenery, a very paradise for artists 
or lovers of natural art, and to breathe up an 
appetite for the luncheon that was being pre- 
pared for us at the Restaurant des Cascades. 

We were ready to start again about 2 p.m., 
for Villa Adriana, a wilderness of vast ruins 
covering an area of nine miles, which resembles 
the remains of a town rather than a palace. I 
mean the immensity of the place. It was com- 
menced in the year 125 and took eleven years 
to build. It is now the largest ruins in the 
world, and it is impossible to see all in one day, 
but we could easily trace out the former glory 
of its magnificence. The Vatican contains 11,000 
rooms, so we were told, but it could not compare 
with Villa Adriana. It took us over two hours 
to see only a piece of it, including, as it did, a 
Greek theatre, race course, swimming bath, lib- 
rary, a chapel, and a court with a colonnade of 
68 columns. Remnants of mosaic floors of dif- 
ferent designs in every room are perfectly won- 
derful, and show how artistic they must have 
been. 

An immense supply of the famous antique 
statuary in the Vatican was taken from here ; 
also the Venus of Medici in Florence. It was 
an awful pity to see it so destroyed, but the 
people of Tivoli were compelled to bring it to 
destruction to prevent invading armies taking 
protection. 

157 



Frascati is another pretty place of many 
attractions, natural, religious, artistic and his- 
torical, which Father Cruise is anxious for us 
to see, and I hope we may. 

We arrived home about 6 p.m., had dinner, 
and as the tickets had not come for our aud 
ience, we went again to the Canadian College. 
Although it is only a short distance, walking 
with high slippers over the roadway made up 
of small stones 4x4 is not very pleasant, so we 
took a livery. As we had already made four 
visits to the college we knew exactly the dis- 
tance and direction, but the driver, thinking 
we were green, tried to make a long drive out 
of it. When we told him he was not taking us 
properly, he hesitated, and enquired from an- 
other driver, so we got out and left him, paying 
him just what was registered on the meter. 

We had another nice visit with Fathers 
Cruise and 'Reilly until the bell rang * or even- 
ing prayer, when we returned to the hotel 
in time to find the messenger waiting with the 
tickets. 

Father Cruise laughed when we told him 
we had been to Tivoli. He thinks we have seen 
more than the average sightseer, and we have 
not done it hurriedly. He motored out last 
February with Mr. J. Melady, of Toronto, and 
enjoyed it so much and considers it the nicest 
place within the vicinity of Rome. 

And, by the way, on our return we met Miss 
Pope, the young lady from Columbus, Ohio, 
whose acquaintance we made in Dresden. She 
had come over from Vienna with a bunch of 
Americans to do up Rome, Pisa, and several 

158 



other places, and she was particularly anxious 
to have us remain until Friday, so she could 
accompany us to Naples 1 . But no persuasion 
on my part could induce Tom to do this. He 
wants no party. 

It is perfectly delightful here, the weather 
is so grand, and I hate to hear of the cold so 
soon, but I suppose it is time for it now in 
Canada. 



November 18. 

This has been another busy day with us, 
and the crowning of our trip has been accom- 
plished. We had an audience with His Holi- 
ness, Pope Pius X this morning, and we were 
so sorry to see how feeble he is. Clothed in 
cream surtout and red shoes he passed through 
the three rooms, where 150 cr more people 
knelt to receive his blessing. He has a very 
fresh but lovely face and wore his ring and a 
large emerald cross attached to gold chain 
around his neck. He paid attention to the 
children, and spoke to one young boy, 15 or 16 
years of age, wearing the habit of some reli- 
gious order. Noble guards of honor accom- 
panied him as he passed through. 

The ladies wore the regulation black veil 
and costume and the men evening dress. 

After lunch, just as we were starting for 
Frascati, we received some mail, including one 
from Dollie, Car, Em, Mrs. Crossin, and 
Mrs. Shaw, who asked us to do some shopping 
for her at the Trappist Monastery, so we can- 

159 



celled our ararngement and drove there, tak- 
ing us about three hours to make the return 
trip. 

I am waiting patiently for dinner. For some 
reason I am very hungry. So much driving in 
the fresh air gives me a big appetite. An Amer- 
ican lady who has been sitting near me asked 
if I am always as healthy as I look. I think 
it must be on account of the sallow or dark com- 
plexion of the Italians that prompted her to 
enquire. There is not much doing here after 
dark except addressing postals or writing, etc., 
to save the daylight for sightseeing. Public 
entertainments are dull and there is no boule- 
vard life. 

We are both very sorry to leave, and during 
our stay in Rome, the cradle of Christianity, 
we have tried to live in spirit with the saints, 
have visited their rooms, cells or tombs, prayed 
at their shrines, remembering all our friends, 
and we have to leave with regret, envy- 
ing those whose prerogative it is to have 
a more extended visit. We even threw pen- 
nies in the Fountain of Trevi, with the hope 
that it would not be long before we would re- 
turn again. There are so many beautiful sights 
that the brain, at least mine, could not always 
accept when the eye reported them. So splen- 
did are the collections in the Vatican alone 
that one can never forget a visit there, and the 
temples of Vesta, Fortuna Virilis, Mamertine 
prison, the Quirinal, Caesar's palace, the Arch 
of Titus, the Castle of St. Angelo are full of 
memories that give Rome the most lovable per- 
sonality. 

160 



Hotel Royal, Naples. 
November 19. 

Well, we arrived 'here about 2.30, leav- 
ing Rome 10 a.m. Had lunch, on the train, 
with the usual course of spaghetti, which 
we have to pass up. Tom can't even look at 
the people eating it. It is rather amusing, as 
there is quite an art in getting it away nicely. 

Our room, according to our arrangement, 
is on the front facing the Bay of Naples, 
a beautiful outlook, and the sunset to-night was 
well worth seeing. 

After arriving we called at Cook's office, 
and the guide will come for us at 8 a.m. From 
there we went in to the Victoria Gallery, a cir- 
cular arcade filled with pretty shops of valuable 
souvenirs, such as cameos, shells, etc. After- 
noon tea or other refreshments were being 
served at the small tables while the orchestra 
played. 

Later, while in the park, we met two men 
off the il Wyoming," which is in port, who 
go on duty to-morrow. They have ten days 
for sightseeing, each man having the same. 
The four officers we had with us to Tivoli do 
not go aboard until the 1st of December, when 
they sail, and it will take about fourteen days 
to return to New York. They travel rather 
slowly, so as to save the coal. Tom has pro- 
mised Officer Alvis that we will visit the navy 
yard on our return and make a tour of the 
"Utah." 

We were both very sorry to leave Rome, hav- 
ing enjoyed it so much, but I must say I am not 

161 



altogether in love with some of the people. They 
are so indolent and dirty, and have no feeling or 
sentiment, as the poor donkeys are abused most 
terribly with heavy loads. For instance, at 
Tivoli we saw one little donkey with man and 
woman sitting on its back and an arrangement 
across it with a barrel on each side, one 
which contained a child and the other vege- 
tables. I am not at all surprised at the 
idea of the society for the protection of ani- 
mals. But I think the greatest trouble of 
the Italians is they have no organization. This 
I have noticed repeatedly; even in church there 
is no regularity ; some are coming, going, stand- 
ing and kneeling, all in opposition. 

We have just been informed dinner is not 
served until 7.30, and it is certainly an awful 
blow to me. When afternoon tea is omitted 
it is a long time to wait. 

Your bundle of papers of the 4th and 5th 
has been handed to Tom, but no mail. 

In one of my letters I said possibly we might 
make the Mauretania, which sails on the 6th, 
but now Tom is feeling so well we have de- 
cided not to alter our plans, and will take the 
Lusitania, in the hope that we may be home in 
time for Christmas. 



Hotel Cappuccini Convent, Amalfi. 
November 20. 

Received your two letters in the large 
envelope mailed on the 6th as we were leaving 
Naples this morning. 

As I told you, we were up early to meet the 

162 



guide with the carriage at 8 a.m. to get the 
train from the main depot, which left at 8.45, 
arriving at La Cava at 10.35, about twenty 
minutes late. 

La Cava is beautifully situated in a deep 
valley, and is a favorite health resort of the 
Neapolitans. The famous Benedictine Abbey is 
situated on one of the hills. A carriage was 
waiting our arrival, and we drove 20 miles to 
Amain, on a narrow roadway at the edge of the 
mountains which border the Gulf of Salerno 
It was beautiful, and it being such a per- 
fect day we could see as far as the sight could 
carry, and I don't believe I ever saw the sky 
and water in such a pretty shade of blue, with 
just a small cluster of clouds throwing its 
shadow. This is a very famous drive, for tour- 
ists, and at 1.30 we had lunch at the Hotel 
Marine Riviere, and in the register Captain A. 
E. Hassock on the 17th July wrote: "The first 
view of Amain, going thither from Paestum, 
from the top of the hill, is the most beautiful T 
have seen in all my travels, and I have seen 
very much. Go slowly. Take a carriage rather 
than a motor; you may not pass this way 
again. ' ' 

Then we took a little side trip to Rav- 
ello, which is situated high above Amalfi and 
reached by a steep ascent taking two hours. 
This little village in the 13th century had as 
many as 30 churches and many monasteries. 
The Cathedral, which is dedicated to St. Panta- 
leoni, is a remarkable specimen of architecture, 
and the marble pulpit inlaid with mosaics at- 
tracts great attention. We went into the gar- 

163 



den of the hotel to admire the surrounding 
scenery, but the height was too much for Tom, 
he could not even take a tiny glimpse. 

It was just getting dusk when we arrived 
at Amalfi and ascended the 200 steps to the 
Hotel Cappuccini, an old monastery, built in 
600, which is famous for its beautiful location. 
There were attendants with wicker chairs to 
carry us up, but Tom refused to trust his weight 
to the little old bent-over Italians. It is very 
unique as a health resort, about 500 feer above 
the sea, and it was under the monks' embow- 
ered walk or grape arbor that Longfellow had 
his inspiration for Amalfi, and wrote : 

This is an enchanted land ! 

Round the headlands far away 

Sweeps the blue Salernian bay, 
With its sickle of white sand : 
Further still and furthermost 
On the dim discovered coast 
Paestum with its ruins lies, 

And its roses all in bloom 
Seem to tinge the fatal skies 

Of that lonely land of doom. 

This is on some of the stationery, otherwise 
I could never have written it for you. 

I love it here, and we have the cutest little 
room, with sitting room adjoining, balcony, and 
all conveniences; two little beds done in gold 
brocaded silk; candle and lamp light. The 
dining room, the monks' refectory, is still be- 
ing used, but it is not so pleasant, as the walls 
and floor are of stone and it is somewhat cooi 
and bare. The little chapel is very nice and is 

^ 164 



used for mass on Sundays only. Th^ monks 
have been away from here since 1870, when the 
Pope and the King of Italy separated, and the 
monastery is now used as a resort for tourists, 
who usually come in January, February, March, 
April, and even May, the busiest months. From 
September to November there are not so many, 
but enough to make it interesting. 

One American couple we met have been 
coming here for a number of years. 

In the country the families are very crude, 
and all they know is work, sleep and eat. 
But when you consider they have culti- 
vated and terraced lemon and orange groves 
right to the top of the mountains, with grape 
vines, olives and fig trees, they are not brainless 
or lazy by any means. But the homes are aw- 
ful, just have a big room, and the houses are 
usually made in a big rock or on the top. A 
great many have the primitive means of con- 
veyance, the poor donkey, while others are seen 
carrying a load on their back. Some women or 
young girls were bent over carrying shrubbery 
to cover the fruit to protect it from any cool 
snap. 

A peculiar thing we saw this morning in 
Naples was a man or shepherd with 20 or 25 
goatiS, calling at the houses to give the supply 
of milk. Each goat knew so well to follow the 
man, just as you say Puppins wants to go up 
the ladder with Father. 

Well, May, it is now after 10.30 and I am 
getting sleepy, having had so much fresh air 
and up early. I hope Miargaret is better and I 
think she should be refused any more candies. 

165 



Friday, Nov. 21. 

"We are waiting for the carriage. It 
was ordered for 10 a.m., but as we were up early 
enough to see the sunrise, and since Tom has 
done a little more exploring, he is particularly 
anxious to start. While I was dressing he 
strolled out to see the surroundings, and when 
he caught sight of the immense rock overhang- 
ing part of the hotel, he came rushing in breath- 
lessly to me, "My God, Lillie, I have a headache 
in my stomach, and I never would have slept 
here had I known how dangerous looking this 
place is." It was such a shock and surprise, as 
he thought when going to bed it would be very 
romantic if there was no landslide. However, it 
has been built some years now and I don't think 
anything has ever happened. 

The carriage and guide are here, so will 
finish later. 

1.30 p.m. s 

We are now at Hotel Marguerita, half-way 
between Amalfi and Sorrento, and have come 
ten miles already. This morning is more beauti- 
ful than yesterday, and it is beyond me to 
describe it. It is perfectly grand. The Gap 
of Dunloe, the Trossachs, and the Alps are all 
beautiful, but they don't compare with this 
drive. To me Italy has a great deal more natural 
scenery to show to the tourist, as well as the 
finest artistic work. 

The town of Amalfi, once very prosperous, 
has fallen off in commerce, and is now only in- 
teresting for its picturesque situation on the 

106 



Gulf of Salerno. Its Cathedral, in which the 
bones of St. Andrew repose since one of the 
early centuries, is very fine. The heavy bronze 
doors, made in 'Constantinople, are wonderful. 

Amalfi is also remarkable for the fact that 
the first marine compass was made there, and in 
the time of its prosperity laws governing the 
seas were also made. 

Our luncheon, which consisted of sar- 
dines, fresh tomatoes, celery and onions, ome- 
lette, potatoes, brown and white bread, with 
butter and fruit, was very nice. 

It is very warm, and I feel it might be a 
repetition of the packing days at the McCarron 
House. 

We are both very sunburnt. 

The people at Hotel Marguerita are busy 
planting their potatoes, and the gardens are 
already in and growing for this season. 

Picking the oranges off the trees to eat is 
another luxury we never had before. 

The carriage has arrived and we are ready 
to start, and the children are turning hand- 
springs for coppers. 

Hotel Victoria, Sorrento. 
November 21. 

We finished our drive to Sorrento through 
some very rough parts. Leaving the Gulf of 
Salerno where it opened into the Mediter- 
ranean, we crossed the country through the 
most beautiful orange, lemon, fig and olivo 
groves, with their handsome villas. These are 
mostly owned by wealthy foreigners who spend 
so many months of the year in this lovely cli- 

167 



mate. The guide pulled two small century 
plants for me, which grow so thickly on the 
roadway and makes a very nice hedge. 

Sorrento is a very charming little town, 
situated on the Bay of Naples; has many plea- 
sant walks, and contains a large silk and fine 
wood work industry. In the principal store, 
where I purchased a silk waist and sweater, we 
saw a piece of work which took five years to 
complete that is going to the Exposition at San 
Francisco in 1915. It was a combination of 
lady's dresser, writing table, etc. It was a 
marvelous construction. 

"We are comfortably fixed up and our 
room faces the bay, with Vesuvius in the dis- 
tance, and, as usual, we enjoyed a good dinner 
to-night. 



Splendid Hotel, Capri. 
November 22. 

It is so warm I am nearly baked, and it must 
be unbearable any earlier, and Tom was saying 
it was awful to think of shoveling snow in a 
little while at Roxboro. 

On leaving Sorrento we had to take the boat 
bus out to the large steamer, and it was some- 
thing new for us to see all the hotels represented 
with a porter, with the usual cap and name of 
hotel, calling his house for tourists. 

We arrived at Capri at 12.15, after visiting 
the Blue Grotto. Tom became very nervous 
and he could not descend to the small boat, 
which is the only means of reaching the 
Grotto, and he remained on the steamer while 

168 



I went with the guide, and on my return I felt 
sorry to see his tears of gladness. The entrance 
to the Grotto is only large enough for a small 
boat, but the cavity in the rock measures about 
60 ft. across and 10 ft. high. 

All the passengers made the visit to the 
Grotto to see the water as blue as any wash- 
ing blue, and when I put my hand in it looked 
like silver. When taken aboard we returned 
to Marina Grande, and it was very much 
against Tom's feelings to get in the little boat 
to make the landing. 

However, on our arrival to the height the 
guide ordered a special lunch for us, which we 
enjoyed so much at Splendid Hotel. I am en- 
closing a postal showing you how lovely it is, 
with its unique situation so the sunrise and sun- 
set can be seen from any point. 

There is a wedding being celebrated, and 
the guests are apparently enjoying the dancing 
and singing. 

Capri is an island and was once colonized 
by the Greeks, and later the Romans. It is 
very fertile, and grows many lemon and orange 
trees. On a high point is Anacapri. The 
remains of an old castle are there, but 
Tom refused to go to any more high places, 
so we drove down to the small boat, where 
hundreds of Italian women were trying to sell 
souvenirs, and particularly corals. 



109 



Rome. 
Sunday, 9.30 p.m. 

About 3.30 the steamer started for Naples, 
and Tom was delighted when he stepped out of 
the boat bus again on the promenade in front of 
the hotel in Naples. We finished our day by 
walking up to the Grand Hotel for a letter 
which E. McC. had addressed there instead of 
the Royal. 

Enjoyed a fine dinner, afterwards watched 
the guests arrive for the bridal reception or 
"at home" that was given in the hotel. 

The street singers, too, were very numerous 
and some rather good. 

We commenced our sightseeing, after going 
to an early mass, by driving through the slums, 
and it certainly is awful. I would much rather 
not have seen them, but Tom was anxious. The 
people just live, eat, wash, cook, and do every 
thing right on the street. Animals will keep 
themselves clean, but these people are posi- 
tively dirty. 

Then we went into the Cathedral and fin- 
ished with the Art Gallery, but as I did not like 
the odor I felt I had seen enough art and could 
get along nicely without the Neapolitan col- 
lection. 

As there was a big change after 11 o'clock, 
threatening rain, we decided hurriedly to leave 
for Rome, and cancelled the arrangements for 
Pompeii and Vesuvius. I was glad to find cards 
waiting from Ella Mahoney, J. Gilooly, and let- 
ters from E. Deacon and Mrs. Graham. 

'Phone and thank them for me. 

170 



We have just made our final call on Rev. 
Father Marshall, but were disappointed to find 
he had retired early. 

The air is heavy and rather warm, and it 
tried to rain about 7, but it has not succeeded 
very much. 

There was a big wedding at the Royal in 
Naples, and while we saw heaps of filth and 
dirt when driving, there was great style, and 
nothing, not even the guests in McConkey's, 
ever looked nicer. There must have been 
twelve weddings this morning, and the guidr 
we had is to be married next Saturday, and 
we thought it a big joke when he asked us to 
be his guests. 

We met an American party, who have been 
on the Continent since May touring in a motor, 
and were very much interested in their ex- 
periences of climbing hills. They carry six 
tires with them. 

Will have a long train ride to-morrow, from 
10 to 7, and it will be our first day homeward, 
Rome to Genoa. I must get into bed as I am 
sleepy and tired writing. 

The Continental is almost filled, a great 
many having arrived in the last few days. At 
Capri and Sorrento the guests were beginning 
to come for the winter. 



Grand Hotel, Genoa. 
November 24. 

We made a very good move in arranging to 
leave Rome, for after breakfast it began to 
rain, and for an hour or so it just poured, and, 

171 



judging from the appearance of the country, 
it had rained very heavily during the thunder 
storm in the night. Even the fields were cov- 
ered with little pools of water. 

We left Rome at 10.05 a.m., arriving at 
Genoa at 8.20, after a pleasant train ride 
through nice country. In some parts there 
were hundreds of horses, sheep, and Roman 
cattle of a dark grey breed with immense 
horns. It was the best farming country 
in Italy we have seen, while on the other 
side we had the Mediterranean for a long way, 
and passed through Pisa, where the famous 
oblique tower is built. It is so pronounced one 
can see it from the train. Miss Pope visited 
Pisa and she had already told us about it. 

Further on we came into a very mountainous 
part, where there is an abundance of marble, 
and with the sun shining on it made it very 
beautiful. Later on we had one of the prettiest 
sunsets I ever saw. 

From Sarzanna we went through a succes- 
sion of tunnels (80), until we came out at 
Genoa. And, strange to say, the olive trees 
and marguerites were as thick in parts as the 
snow on the distant mountain tops. 



On train. 
November 25. 

It was 10 p.m. when we finished dinner, and 
after I had perused the four letters received I 
wrote off a short note to Jimmie D., as I really 
owed him an acknowledgement. I don't seem 
to get the time to write as many as I would 

172 



like. We only spent the night in Genoa so I 
know very little of it. Tom is too anxious for 
Paris and London again. He amuses me; he 
thinks every place he goes to will be a New 
York. I joke and tell him his geography 
has b3en neglected, and if he would refresh it 
instead of looking after traffic and English 
speaking people with whom he can ask ques- 
tions, it would be more beneficiaL 

The trains in Italy are owned by the Italian 
Government and some of them are very dirty, 
and it is really necessary to travel first class, 
while in the other countries second class is as 
good as our best. 

We are just starting and are almost 30 min- 
utes late. Thank Mrs. Martin for her kindness 
in sending the papers. We always seem to have 
her bundle in time to read on the train. 



Ventimille, 2.45 p.m. 

It is now getting on to 3 p.m., and we are 
at the frontier between Prance and Italy, and 
we had to put our watches back an hour. The 
baggage was also examined, and some had to 
stand a very severe scrutiny. Ours was passed 
all right, and Tom escaped without having his 
pockets examined. Cigars seem to be the most 
particular thing at all the Customs offices. 

We have had a very nice Englishman with 
us for the greater part of the day. and he in- 
forms us he comes three times a year to Italy 
to buy marble for monuments. He is very 

173 



nice, and has made it quite pleasant, so 
we didn't bother about Cook's man at the sta- 
tion; in fact, at several places we dispensed 
with him. He isn't really necessary, and when 
you have a porter for the luggage you are re- 
lieved of the burden. 

We have been at Ventimille for over an hour 
and we will have another hour's traveling be- 
fore we reach Nice. 

I will be glad to be off to get washed and 
brushed up. It has been warm all day, and 
with the train windows open heaps of extra 
dust or dirt has blown in. 

Coming into the Riviera it is very beautiful. 
Parts are high and rugged, overlooking the 
sea, with palm trees as large as the Canadian 
oak for shade trees. Carnations and hedges 
of roses are in bloom for miles and miles. 

The umbrella pines in the Borghese Gardens 
in Borne are much to be admired. 



Grand Hotel, Nice. 
November 25. 

It is 8.20 p.m., and we have just finished 
dinner, and Tom is having his hair trimmed 
while I am finishing this. 

We arrived about 4.30, and have a most 
comfortable room with bath, overlooking a 
pretty square. The dinner was fine and we had 
duck for a change. 

From what we have seen we think we will 
like it here. Tom very soon gets tired of a 
small place, but there is the traffic and quite a 

174 



Parisian air, so he will likely be contented. 
We passed Monte Carlo, and it looked good and 
interesting. Mr. McClellan, the guide we had 
in Brussels, was on the platform, and. unfor- 
tunately we did not notice him until the long 
train was pulling through the station, 

Ou getting into the hotel bus a young man 
entered who had been at the Continental, in 
Rome, and who seemed to go every place we 
did, but we did not become acquainted. He 
usually had four ladies with him, and Tom 
simply refuses parties. After meeting him at. 
Ventimille and again in the omnibus, Tom said : 
"Are you following us or are we following 
you?" It was funny, too, on coming to our 
room the clerk gave him the next room and 
opened the communicating door. It certainly 
was a joke and we all appreciated it. He hap- 
pened to be from Australia, and so many we 
have met come from that direction, but none 
from Canada excepting Mr. Thompson, whom 
we met in Paris. 

Before going to dinner we took a little 
stroll, and, greatly to our surprise, we met our 
favorite officer from the U. S. man-of-war 
"Utah." Haven't we been lucky in meeting 
acquaintances we have made in different places, 
unexpectedly? And also the weather, we have 
been very fortunate with, no rain, and always 
sunshine when we wanted it. 

I don't know that I have any more to tell 
you to-night. Remember us kindly to all en- 
quiring friends. 



175 



November 27. 

Somehow I didn't get an opportunity to 
write you yesterday, being out all day. and I 
used the few moments I had before lunch in 
writing Martin and Ollie. 

Tom sent Maudie a short note and he is busy 
writing Nick just now. 

It is almost 10 o'clock and this is the first 
morning we have had breakfast served to our 
room since leaving Nurnberg. The sun shines 
so nicely it is really more pleasant than the 
dining room, which is, as a rule, rather cool. 

We like Nice very much, and it is without 
exception perfectly lovely. It has not, of 
course, the many churches, art galleries, etc., 
that Rome and other cities have for the tourist, 
but there is a sort of natural beauty which 
strongly fascinates the newcomer, and I think 
it is quite a good change for the two of us. 

Nice is really a young Paris, similarly situ- 
ated as Atlantic City, but instead of the nu- 
merous small shops bordering the promenade 
are the grand and expensive hotels, with rates 
ranging from $20 a day up, just for apartments. 
It was crowded this morning, not a bench to 
be had for the tired ones. The shops in this 
vicinity and on Massena Place and Avenue are 
so full of pretty things to attract the million- 
aires I feel almost bilious looking at them. 

We did not go to Mentone> as we should 
have, owing to a misunderstanding in Cook's 
office. We were busy all day on our own ac- 
count. Cook's is always advised of our ar- 
rival, but as we were several days ahead of 

176 



the itinerary it caused the mistake. We were 
given cards to notify them in advance of 
any change, but in some way it did not reach 
them in time. However, it didn't really make 
any difference, as one day is as good as another, 
and there are so many other things to occupy 
one's time. 

We went first to the flower market, where 
the display was most exquisite, all kinds, and 
so reasonable. I got a beautiful bouquet of 
American Beauties for our room for 1 franc. 
And the vegetables, too, were lovely, and one 
could have almost all they wanted of peas, 
cauliflower, tomatoes, celery, radishes, lettuce 
for a dollar. The market is like this all the 
year. It is a shame the beautiful sunshine of 
this climate is so far from home. 

After lunch we had a drive through the city 
and up and down the Promenade des Anglais, 
viewing all the hotels, villas, and their pretty 
gardens. The ostrich farm, the first we have 
seen, is the only one of its kind in Europe, con- 
tains 60 to 80 birds, and rears each year from 30 
to 40. The feathers, I can assure you, are much 
prettier to look at than the birds; in fact, they 
are ugly and seem so cross. 

The carriages for hire are as nice as any 
private carriage in Toronto, and there is a clean- 
liness quite noticeable after coming from 
some parts of Italy. Drivers all crack the 
whip as a signal to clear the way. Amusements 
of all kinds, theatres, tea rooms are here, and 
we spent an hour or two at the Casino, and I 
was lucky enough to win 20 francs. To play 
you put a franc or any amount up to 20 on a 

177 



number, and the man who stands in the centre 
(dressed in black Prince Albert, grey gloves) 
drops a small red rubber ball, and it rolls 
around and around until it stops in one of the 
holes, and the person having the corresponding 
number wins. As many as like can put the 
money on one number. There are different 
odds. Four tables are kept busy, and they are 
about the size of a billiard table. It is very 
fascinating. 

Near the hotel is a stream of water which 
runs into the sea under the city, and every day 
is washday. The poor people still hold to the 
old way of washing. Each woman kneels in a 
basket and has a stone or board for rubbing, 
and she soaps, rubs and wrenches the clothes in 
the stream. There is quite a current, so that 
they have clean water all the time. There must 
have been 500 at it this morning before 6, and 
they come from every vicinity, carrying the 
filled baskets on their heads. Throughout Ger- 
many and Italy we have seen this, and where 
there was no stream a large tub or trough had 
been made and perhaps as many as 25 or 30 
would be hard at work. 



November 28. 

This is really the nicest place we have come 
to this season. It is so delightful, and the mild- 
ness of its climate is due, I think, to its sheltered 
position. The season is just opening, and we 
have been told that there is accommodation for 

178 



100,000, who come for the sun baths and the 
perpetual spring. 

Every hotel and villa has its new spring 
appearance, as they have been painted and 
housecleaned for the occasion. Nothing is 
neglected to draw the visitors, and the season 
is a continuation of fetes, such as horse and 
automobile races, pigeon shooting, dramatic 
performances, regattas, carnivals, horse shows, 
etc. 

The municipal and regimental bands play 
alternately in the Casino and on the promenade 
every afternoon and evening from 2 o'clock. 

The numerous cafes and tea rooms, complete 
in style and comfort, have musicians who play 
daily. And the museum, without comparison, 
of course, with those seen in Italy, is worthy 
of a little visit ; also the many pretty churches. 

We are going to Monte Carlo to-morrow, 
and we notice the papers are already giving 
long lists of guests who have arrived for the 
winter. Mr. Duff gave me a few francs to 
play, and I hope I will be lucky with it 

On our arrival here we found letters from 
you, Dollie, E. McC., and cards from D. Mc- 
Gann and Madge, and Tom had his second 
letter from J. McC. I wish you would acknowl- 
edge them all for me. 



Saturday, 6.30 p.m. 

We have returned from Mentone, Monaco 
and Monte Carlo, and we have had a glorious 
day, driving there by the way of the upper 



road, called the Castle Hill, which gives one 
of the finest sights of the Riviera, with the 
rocks overhanging, with roses, geraniums and 
other flowers, and the beautiful villas standing 
in gardens full of flowers and plants. Passed 
through Villefranche and were delighted to see 
the American fleet. 

We stopped at Hotel Des Anglais for lunch, 
and it was indeed very good and tasty. Can 
you wonder at our good appetite with so much 
driving in the fresh air. The proprietor gave 
us a Ion'* talk of how nice it is there and the 
number of guests he can accommodate. The 
numerous walks around the town, and the ex 
cursions to be made at a short distance gives 
charming pastime to the visitor, and, really, one 
could spend a week or two nicely. Watching 
the bathers coming and going before lunch 
made Tom long for his suit. He has a craze 
for the water, for he is splashing some tim/ 
every day. 

About 1.30 we departed for Monte Carlo, 
and I could not express the elaborate gardens, 
surroundings, beautiful location, diamonds, 
style and money, heaps of it. However, I had 
the luck of winning $1, while Tom d his luck. 
He lost the 40 francs he won last evening. Of 
course, we were anxious for the visit, and it 
was certainly worth it. And, strange to say, 
the first two we met going in were Mr. and 
Mrs. Berkinshaw, of Russell Hill Drive. Tom 
was speaking to him for a moment. They came 
in on the Franconia, which was on her way from 
New York to Naples. 

On entering the Casino one must present his 

180 



card, and a ticket of admission is made out and 
shown at the door. Gentlemen are requested 
to check coats and hats. 

We were sorry, night coming on, we had to 
leave early, at 4.30, when a great crowd of 
style was arriving. It took two hours to come 
into Nice, and it was quite dark. Motor cars 
travel so quickly on the winding roads and 
through the tunnels that a carriage has a poor 
chance on the road. The battleships were all 
lighted up, also their powerful searchlights. 



Sunday, Nov. 30. 

Very fine weather prevailed here again to- 
day, and the barometer indicates no change. It 
was so warm on the promenade that I had to 
take off my coat. Even my moire is a little too 
much sometimes. 

Every bench was occupied and I was 
amused at Tom when he said he was eating it 
he loves the sunshine. He doesn't bother about 
overcoat and gloves and that suits him. Dogs 
are used much as companions, and it is quite 
noticeable to see men and ladies carrying dif- 
ferent colored blankets for them. 

We went to mass in a quaint little church 
near the hotel, and later to the Cathedral for 
high mass, and it was packed, every s^at being 
taken. The music and singing were beautiful. 

After lunch we started for Monaco to make 
another visit to Monte Carlo, and we were fortu- 
nate enough to escape an Italian, a waiter, who 
suddenly went mad and attacked everybody he 

181 



encountered with a dessert knife. Some of the 
American sailors, who were on the train, gave 
great assistance to the crew in subduing the 
madman, but not until he had wounded several 
persons. The incident certainly caused the 
greatest sensation. 

This was the important and last day of the 
U. S. fleet's visit, and the officers were busy re- 
turning courtesies extended to them by having 
a reception aboard the * ' Wyoming. ' ' The whole 
of Nice and the neighborhood turned out to 
wish Godspeed to the three American battle- 
ships, which left for their meeting place, near 
Gibraltar, on their way home. 

The Wyoming was the first to get under way 
to the waving of handkerchiefs, and as the huge 
flagship began to move her band on deck struck 
up the ll Marseillaise," which was greeted by 
cheers and applause from the onlookers on 
land. 

And then the "Utah" and "Delaware," 
with their bluejackets lined up along the sides, 
followed their superior ship, playing the "Star 
Spangled Banner." 

The farewell to France was, therefore, a 
very impressive spectacle, and at 4 o'clock 
every bell and whistle in Villefranche sounded 
as the great ships cast their moorings and 
steamed out of the harbor in the glorious Riv- 
iera sunset. 

We were so glad to have witnessed the so- 
journ of the fleet, but sorry our time at Monte 
Carlo was limited, 6 o 'clock coming so quickly, 
and we had to return to Nice. Tom was lucky, 
however, and won 160 francs, but I lost my 25. 

182 



We <net some very nice American people who 
are stopping in Monaco, and they have seen a 
great deal of the Casino. The style is really 
marvelous, to say nothing of the money put on 
the tables. It is very fascinating to watch. 
We were told no one living as a citizen of 
Monaco is allowed to enter the Casino. It is 
for the tourist or stranger, and the Prince of 
Monaco reaps an immense revenue yearly for 
his privilege in allowing the games. 

Monaco is an independent principality, and 
through all revolutions has been able to up- 
hold its independence, notwithstanding its 
powerful neighbors, and as long as the Prince 
gives his authority the Casino holds good. 

I must get into bed, as I am weary. I 
have had so much standing I am extra tired. 
We have decided to omit Marseilles; would 
rather spend the extra time here. It is just an 
hour longer from Nice to Paris, and being a 
seaport town we have been told there is noth- 
ing to see. 



On train. 
Monday, Dec. 1. 

It is 6 p.m., and we are at Toulon, on 
our way to Marseilles. On going to Cook's to 
have our tickets altered to omit Marseilles, and 
take 'the morning train Tuesday to Paris, we 
found they were not acceptable on that train, 
so in order to arrive on the night of the 2nd, as 
we advised, we had to start this afternoon at 
2.20, arriving at Marseilles at 7.20. It would 

183 



mean the expenditure of $36 to exchange the 
tickets, and for one night we didn't consider 
it worth that much when there was no hurry. 



Regina Hotel, Marseilles. 

We have just finished dinner, and it was 
fine. Had a lovely train ride, and coming 
through the Eiviera has been the prettiest we 
have had, and it was with a great deal of sor- 
row we departed from Nice. 

On enquiring I found no mail, but hope tc 
get some on our arrival in Paris, otherwise I 
will be very much disappointed. Our last let- 
ters were dated the 10th and they contain very 
old news now. 

Driving from the depot to the hotel we were 
not very much impressed, but, as I said to Tom, 
it was hardly fair to judge or pass an opinion 
so quickly. But we both liked Nice, Monaco 
and Mentone so much that we will hardly be 
satisfied again until we reach Roxboro. 



Tuesday, 8.30 a.nL 

We are in the train waiting our depar- 
ture to Paris, and we feel the change already. 
We have gradually come into cooler climate, 
and will miss the glorious sunshine of Italy and 
the Riviera, and the ease, comfort and pleasure 
we have enjoyed in Nice. 

Just as we were leaving the hotel I received 
a letter from Mrs. Rush and Tessie. You might 
'phone them for me. I will send a card in ac- 

184 



knowledgement, and if we don't have a rolling 
homeward voyage I will have an opportunity 
of answering some of my letters. The day por- 
ter informed me that he had sent about ten 
letters on to Paris, so we will have them to- 
night. 

As I told you, we intended passing up Mar- 
seilles, but found out at the last moment we 
would spend the night here. It really suited 
me better to have a good night's sleep and to 
feel equal for our long ride of 12 hours, and, 
consequently, we will see the country in the 
daylight. There is nothing particularly inter- 
esting to see at Marseilles, it being a sailing 
port for Egypt and the Mediterranean points. 

This train is made up of first and second 
class coaches, with dining car. The first class 
is upholstered in tan with lace covers, while 
second is blue with the lace covers, so practic- 
ally the only difference is in the color of the 
cushions, but a great difference in the price. 
As someone said to us, only Royalty or fools 
travel first class, and it is quite true, for iht 
comfort is equal. 

In Italy we traveled first class, but in the 
other countries second. We are quite comfort- 
able, having two window seats, with a little 
table between us, which makes it so nice for 
writing or a game of Rummy. And our travel- 
ing slock, which Martin and Mrs. Martin so 
kindly gave us at their farewell dinner, has al- 
ways had a prominent place on the table, and 
we both have become so attached and accus- 
tomed to it that it forms part of our important 
luggage, and would be impossible to get along 

185 



without it. We found it specially interesting 
going through the dark tunnels, when its 
illuminated figures gave us an idea of the 
length. The slippers, pens, drinking cups, 
and the many other useful gifts have all done 
their duty and have been more than appre- 
ciated. Another train has just pulled in, and T 
notice the ladies are wearing colored cloth top 
boots to match the suit. 

Puppins would have great liberties here as 
far as traveling is concerned, but he would have 
to wear the muzzle. I never saw so many dogs 
as pets before. It is very difficult to take a dog 
into England. The law compels that it 
must be left in quarantine at the border for 
so many weeks to prove to the officials that 
there is no disease. 

On our arrival last evening a man came to 
us and said something which we didn't under- 
stand. However, he wanted our bags opened, 
but in some way we passed through without 
doing so. It seems in the French towns partic- 
ular attention is given to the carrying of es- 
sences, spirits, etc., from one to the other. 

We are just off. 



8 p.m. 

We have finished dinner and have two hours 
more traveling. This has been our longest ride, 
and we have come into much cooler weather, as 
the windows' are all steamed. 

There has been a lady in this compartment 
suffering very much with indigestion or sick 

186 



stomach, and she has not been able to hold her 
head up or take a bite to eat all day. She does 
not talk English and is traveling alone. 



Hotel Continental, Paris. 
11 p.m. 

We are again fixed up nicely in the Contin- 
ental for another few days, and the lights c^ 
Gay Paree looked good after five hours' travel- 
ing in the dark. But I was almost ready to do 
damage when told there was no mail. However, 
after considerable searching, we were handed a 
bundle of papers but no letters. 



December 3. 

On getting up this morning I found your 
four letters, one from E. D., E. McC , and Dollie 
addressed to Marseilles, also yours, E. McC., 
E. D., and Dollie addressed to Paris. Jen 
Gilooly was good enough to send a card, 
and at noon received another letter from Ollit; 
and Maudie. It kept me quite busy until after 
10 getting through them all, and by the time I 
had our trunks rearranged ready for cur trip 
back to London, as we had left them in storage 
in Paris, it was 1 p.m. 

We lunched and went out until 4 p.m., when 
I returned to the hotel for a rest, and I must 
say Paris to me looked like the day after 
a funeral, very gloomy and sad, in com- 
parison to the beautiful sunshine and the glor- 
ia? 



ious sunsets we have had, but I presume we 
need variety, it is the spice of life. 

I sincerely hope Margaret is better. Sh<; 
seems young to have stomach trouble. From 
all accounts Dollie's house will be exception- 
ally nice, and I hope we will be home in time for 
its formal opening. 

We will sail on the Lusitania on the 13th, as 
we will be unable to make the Mauretania. We 
leave Thursday, as we had a letter from 
Cook's office enclosing our reserved se?t tickets 
on the train, Paris to Calais, and Dover to Lon- 
don. Tom thinks we might as well start and 
not make any further change. The predictions 
are fair weather and moderate crossing the 
Channel, so that sounds good to me. 

I really haven't any news to give you to- 
night. Will write later from London, and that 
will probably be my last from this side, as the 
curtain will soon drop on our first European 
trip. 



Hotel Cecil, Strand, London, W.C. 
Thursday, Dec. 4. 

This will be a very tiny note, as we have 
just come in from a good variety at the Tivoli, 
next to the Cecil, and I am anxious to catch 
the mail for the Mauretania. You will, of 
course, know before this that we sail on the 
Lusitania, as we spent our extra time in the 
Riviera. 

Received your two letters, two from Dollie, 
E. Me., and one from Maudie, Bro. Columbia, 

188 






and "little" Lillie Orr, and T had to laugh 
when I noticed she had addressed me "Dear 
big Lillie. Your papers and also a bundle from 
Mrs. Martin were waiting for us. 

Well, we had a very rough passage, and I 
think a marine volcano must have struck the 
English Channel, as it was frightfully rough, 
taking 30 minutes longer than the regular time 
to make the crossing. The waves splashed right 
over the deck, and to me there seemed as much 
on top as underneath. I certainly stood it well, 
but Tom was a sick one. Fortunately for me I 
remained on deck, and the old seamen fixed me 
up with three rubber coats, so I managed to get 
over without any unpleasantness other than my 
anxiety for Tom. I couldn't move. 

It has been raining all day, and the grate 
fire we have in our room is indeed very cosy 
and nice. 



Friday, Dec. 5. 

It is almost 11 p.m., and where the day 
has gone to I don't know. It has passed so 
fast, and I have just finished a short note to M. 
Duggan, thanking her for her many kindnesses. 

We were out in the shopping district all day, 
and as it commenced raining early we decided 
it would be a good day for the stores. 

Tom has been rather busy writing Em. 
and Mrs. Oliver, telling them he will soon be 
home for lemon and apple pie. He is feeling 
fine to-night. 

Love to all. 

189 



December 6. 

Just as I was thinking of going out to make 
a final raid on the shops before leaving, your 
letter of the 24th, one from Dollie, J. D., Em. 
and Car., and six bundles of papers came. Have 
enjoyed all, and I feel sure we have received 
all the mail addressed to us, as it has been fol- 
lowing right along. 

We are both O.K., and there is no need for 
any anxiety, and we are now waiting time for 
our departure. Tom will call on F. Metcalfe 
to-day. 

Saturday, Dec. 6. 

I presume you have already acknowledged 
the letters received. I haven't anything very 
particular to write about, but I feel if I miss 
a day I may also miss a mail. Altogether I 
don't think I have neglected writing five or six 
days, so you should have a fairly good diary 
of our trip, and are well posted of our doings. 
However, it won't be long now, and then I 
will have a rest from writing. I am really get- 
ting pretty tired of it. 

The weather has been very mixed since com- 
ing to London, but we have been repeatedly 
told it is what we are to expect, and we have 
become quite accustomed to the street illumina- 
tions on a foggy day. 

I spent a very interesting morning in Har- 
rod's big store, while Tom went to the sales 
stable, and then later we met at 1 p.m. to have 
lunch, which consisted of good roast chicken, 
sliced tomatoes, lettuce salad, celery, apple pie, 

190 



ice cream, etc. The restaurant in Harrod's is 
on the top, beautifully equipped and furnished, 
with an orchestra of five or six pieces. The 
store itself is very fine, and is considered the 
best departmental in London. Self ridge's is 
another good store, on the American cr Cana- 
dian idea. All the stores close at 1 p.m. Satur- 
day, and blinds drawn, and made very Sunday- 
like. The people were busy hurrying to 
the big rugby games, and every tram and 
taxi was crowded. I walked some distance 
with Tom and at 2.30 drove to the hotel to have 
a little rest and sleep. 

We have been rather disappointed in not 
getting tickets for "The Girl from Utah," as 
all the seats are booked for up to the 20th of 
December. 

Mr. and Mrs. Newbury, of Sandusky, whom 
we met in Paris in September, told us not to 
miss it. Of course, there are heaps of other 
shows, but knowing of this we were particu- 
larly anxious to see it. It is at the Adelphi, on 
the Strand, just opposite the Cecil, and if there 
is any chance of rush tickets I am willing to 
take them. Every available room in the Cecil 
is occupied and in use to-night, and crowded 
with people who have come in for the different 
banquets, etc. There is so much to see just 
in the hotel that we have let two evenings slip 
by without going out. Mr. Riches, of the Eaton 
Co., is here recuperating after a serious attack 
of pneumonia, and he has been very interest- 
ing, telling us of his experiences on his first 
trip to London. 

We hope to see Mr. Duff again before we 
leave. 

191 



Sunday, 9 a.m. 

I have just come in from the little Corpus 
Christ! Church and am waiting for Tom to dress 
for breakfast, and then we will go to Westmin- 
ster Cathedral. The music or rather the chant- 
ing is very nice there. Just now it is a beautiful 
day, but dear knows how long it will last. 

I succeeded in getting a suit. I had to try 
a great many places, as it is a little late for 
this kind of shopping. It is Christmas trade 
now, and everywhere it is "Useful presents for 
Xmas," "The toy department or show opened," 
and "Xmas presents in all departments." I 
am almost tired reading these signs, and the 
streets are so very crowded it is impossible to 
get along with pleasure. 

The window decorations are beautiful, and 
every conceivable place has been hollied and 
mistletoed, and it is a great treat to be in Lon- 
don at this season. 



11.30 p.m. 

Well, we walked to and from the Cathedral, 
and by noon there was a thick fog, and as Tom 
had been hoping to see a London fog he got it 
good and plenty, and as there was no pleasure 
outside we enjoyed the Sunday programme at 
the Cecil and a little nap as well. 

Four p.m. we had afternoon tea in a pretty 
little tea room on the Strand, and after 
dinner, at 7.30, we went to the West End Pic- 
ture Show, the best in London, and was plea- 
santly surprised to see Tivoli again. It looked 

192 






more beautiful than when we were there. Par- 
sifal was also shown, accompanied with an or- 
chestra of some 50 musicians. It was very good, 
and it was much after 11 o 'clock when we came 
out. 



Monday, 5.30 p.m. 

It has been very dull all day. I went to Ox- 
ford Street for a fitting of my suit, while Tom 
went to Hampton Wick to see Mr. Metcalfe, 
and, needless to say, he was so delighted to see 
him that he had to remain for lunch and pro- 
mise that I would go out on Thursday. 

The latest issue of Saturday Night has just 
come to us, and I presume Mr. McKim is the 
sender. 

Tom had hopes of going to the boxing bout 
to-night to see Wells and Carpentier, but as 
standing room is $25 I am afraid it is too near 
the last gasp of our trip to be too extravagant. 
You know it all counts now. 

We have tried again for seats for "The Girl 
from Utah," but have been disappointed. We 
will try for "Who's the Lady?" 

Must get ready for dinner. 



12.10 p.m. 

Have been to the variety at the Coliseum, 
a fair show, but nothing extra. There were 
some very clever sea lions and seals, and dif- 
ferent tango steps 1 done to the Robert E. Lee. 

Carpentier, the Frenchman, won the fight 

193 



in the first half-round, so those who paid high 
prices for tickets or standing room didn't get 
very much sport. I noticed on the bulletin or the 
paper that Wells was in a motor accident, and 
I don't know whether it had any effect to cause 
his defeat. However, he is, I believe, getting 
$1,200 or more, so he should worry. 



Tuesday, Dec. 9. 

Found your letter of the 27th Nov. waiting 
for me. Noted all with interest. So sorry to 
hear of Mr. Spence 's death. It is rather foggy 
but mild, and as there is a mail going, I must 
close with love to all. 

Hoping you are feeling better and will be 
O.K. for Christmas. 



Tuesday, Dec. 9. 

As it is after 12 p.m. I have only time 
to tell you we have seen ' * The Girl from Utah, ' * 
but had to take rush seats. They were in the 
lower half of the pit, so different from the Cana- 
dian theatres ; in fact they were excellent, and 
are equal to the $1 seats at the Princess or 
Royal. Should it ever come to Toronto in a 
good company don't fail to see it. It is a mus- 
ical play in two acts, by James T. Tanner, and 
Dora Manners (Miss Munro) is exceptionally 
good. Music is catchy and the costumes and 
dresses very pretty. 

We want to see " Quality Street" if we can. 
It is very good we have been told, but it is so 
hard to get seats. We were unable to get any 

194 



for ' ' Who 's the Lady. ' ' The Cattle Show, along 
with several other things, have brought in 
crowds, consequently seats have been booked 
well in advance. 



Thursday, Dec. 11, 11.45 p.m. 

I have been so busy these two days I have 
not had an opportunity of adding a paragraph 
or two to this. 

After going to the Bank of Montreal and 
visit! ag Mr. Dodd, London manager for The 
Maclean Publishing Co., in his office, the morn- 
ing was gone, 'and as I had an appointment for 
a fitting for my suit, we lunched up town at 
1.30 and arrived back at the Cecil at 4 o'clock, 
in time to dress for dinner, as Mr. Dodd ar- 
ranged to call at 5 to take us to his home in 
Wimbledon, seven miles out. 

On our arrival we found Mrs Dodd and 
children well, and the latter are indeed a trea- 
sure to them, so perfectly well trained. 

Mr. and Mrs. Hughes called later to spend 
the evening, and altogether we had a very 
pleasant time. Cards were suggested, but all 
were so keenly interested with our travel talk 
that 11 p.m. came too quickly. 

To-day we had lunch with Mr and Mrs. Met- 
calfe at East Lodge, Hampton Wick, 40 min- 
utes ride from London, and we both enjoyed 
the day very much, having found them the 
most hospitable host and hostess. Unfortu- 
nately, their child, Jerry, a little boy of two 
years, was not very well, and Mrs Metcalfe is 

195 



so wrapped up in him that he got every atten- 
tion, and she had to spend considerable time in 
the nursery. 

After lunch, which, by the way, consisted of 
roast turkey, sausages, cranberries, potatoes, 
corn, spinach, plum pudding, mince pie claret, 
lager, whiskey and soda, we enjoyed a pretty 
grate fire in the living room, while Tom and Mr. 
Metcalfe puffed cigars. Tom having been out 
the day before, had seen the horses, the priz3 
chickens, and everything interesting outside, 
and to gaze on the antiques inside would take 
considerable time. One picture alone, which 
Mrs. Metcalfe values very highly, is carrying 
a heavy fire insurance. 

At 5 o'clock tea was served, and we 
were real sorry to take our departure, and 
more sorry that Tom did not have this address 
before, as he and Mr. Metcalfe could have spent 
some very pleasant time together in London. 

We finished the day by going to the Duke 
of York Theatre to see "Quality Street." a neat 
little comedy in four acts, and now we are hav- 
ing a little tea party in our room of sandwiches 
and Pilsener, 

Had a letter from R. E. D. and he is still in 
Paris and not likely to return until the 18th or 
20th. He wants to be remembered to all at 
Queen Street. He called at the Continental, to 
find we had gone, and we are real sorry to hav3 
missed him. 

I haven't any more to tell you. We 
have iust one day more before we sail, and the 
time has certainly gone too quickly. I can 
hardly believe the week is over us. I am hop- 

196 



ing for a good passage, but I am afraid not, ac- 
cording to the reports I have been reading. 
However, if not, I won't mind, as I have en- 
joyed almost every minute here> having been so 
well, and gained 16 pounds, that a day or two 
in bed won't hurt me. 

It is past 12.30 too late to write any more. 



Saturday, Dec. 13. 

We are now ready, trunks packed, bill paid, 
and waiting to go, and it is with a fueling of 
deepest regret we bid adieu to the Cecil and 
London, for it certainly has a fascination one 
cannot explain. 

We leave on the steamboat express from 
Euston Station at 12 noon, and are having a 
beautiful sunshiny day to commence with. 



On board the Lusitania. 
Sunday, Dec. 14, 1 p.m. 

Well, we got off to a good start; every com- 
partment taken; the sun shone beautifully all 
day, in fact, it was its first good appearance 
duriag our visit. However, the weather was 
very mild and nice, and as there is an attraction 
about London which grows on one, it was really 
hard to tear ourselves away. We spent fully 
a month and it was only a call, practically 
speaking. 

We had very pleasant company on the first 
special, Which pulled out just ten minutes ahead 

197 



of the second at 12 noon, in Mrs. Reynolds and 
daughter, who were coming to the United States 
as professionals in vaudeville Mr. Reynolds, a 
son, who is in California, is to join them, and 
on their visit to Toronto we hope to meet them 
again. Unfortunately, they are traveling second 
class and we had to separate at the steamer. 
We had lunch on the train and went aboard 
immediately on our arrival at the Liverpool 
dock at 4 p.m., and it was 5.35 before the final 
whistle blew. We are a long way from the 
sight of land and all is well so far. 

In the lounge last evening we met Mr. G. S. 
Munro, of London, and formerly of New Zea- 
land and Australia, and he was so interesting 
that we chatted until Sunday morn. It must 
have been 1 o'clock when we retired, and we 
did not wake again until we heard the mail go- 
ing on at Queenstown. We quickly dressed, 
and went out to see the little tenders loaded 
with the Christmas mail for friends in America. 
They put on 3,000 bags. Had breakfast and 
walked the deck until I am now ready for 
lunch. Hot bouillon or broth with crackers is 
always served at 11, but as I prefer something 
more substantial I usually decline. 

Received a great many papers and letters 
when coming aboard, and many thanks to each 
and every one who has been good enough to 
keep in touch with us all the time All mail 
sent to the Mauretania had been re-addressed 
and was also waiting for us. 



198 



Wednesday morning, Dec. 17. 

It is now time to change our watches, the 
horn has just blown, and we have come 1,270 
miles. 

Since Sunday night I have been in bed, not 
ill, but would have been had I got up. Almost 
everyone felt the motion. There was a rough 
head sea, and the velocity of the wind was ter- 
rific, and combined with the high speed the 
ship was traveling it certainly had a nasty 
effect. However, I was one of the fortunate 
ones not to be ill. I was quite comfortable in 
bed, had the attention of the steward and 
stewardess, ate very sparingly (roast potato, 
apple, and ginger ale), and am much the better 
for it. 

Unless one has crossed the Atlantic they can 
never imagine the immensity of the waves in 
rough weather. 

We will be at Sandy Hook at midnight and 
are already beginning to feel the American or 
perhaps the Labrador breeze. Tom couldn't 
content himself in bed during the rough 
weather, so he dressed and tried to eat, only to 
have the discomfort of getting rid of it, and 
finally he would have to lie down. 

All are busy with the landing tickets, and 
I have just finished making our declaration 
of baggage. 

Messrs. Powell, Riches and McGowan, 
buyers of draperies, carpets, and china, have 
been excellent company for Tom, and they were 
all joking him and said they would carry me 
on deck if I had not made my appearance when 
I did. 

199 



Thursday, Dec. 18. 

It is a perfectly glorious day, and the ab- 
stract of the log is "strong breeze, and squally 
to moderate wind and fine; smooth sea." I 
was on deck before 7. It was so warm inside 
a grsat many were up early for the air. In- 
structions had been given to the engineers for 
extra steam, and they gave it in abundance. 

We were at Sandy Hook at midnight and 
will dock about 8 a.m. Friday. 

Since talking to some of the gentlemen Tom 
has baen told we may not be able to stop over 
in Buffalo, and will have to take the night train. 
We both prefer the day ride and will not know 
definitely until we make enquiries at the dock. 
Will wire. 

I have not written any letters, so I will ask 
you to be good enough to 'phone, acknowledg- 
ing letters from Dollie, E. D., Mrs. Martin, and 
E. McC., received when coming aboard. I find 
the writing room so very warm it is not plea- 
sant to sit in, and it is usually so crowded with, 
men, who form a large percentage of the pas- 
senger list. In the dining room at my first meal 
I was the only lady with eleven men. 

You will remember I was telling you of 
meeting Mr. Munro, well his daughter is Dora 
Manners in "The Girl from Utah," who took 
the part of the Irish girl, and who brought 
down the house with applause. There are a 
great many professionals traveling, particularly 
Jews, Germans and Japs. Mischa Elman, the 
noted violinist, has done a great deal of prac- 
tising in his stateroom, but refuses to play for 
the pleasure of others in the lounge. 

200 



Lord Decies, who married a Miss Gould, 
was chairman of the musieale, and Mr. B. L. 
Herman gave a little talk on aviation and some 
of his experiences. He told of one time flying 
in the direction of California and dropping on 
the roof of a small house, and how frightened 
the people were. 

I don't know that I have anything very par- 
ticular now to write about. We will soon be 
home and will be glad to see all. I addressed 
cards to the families, but unfortunately Tom 
put them in the box at the Cecil instead of 
bringing them to the boat, ay I had intended, 
and it will be some few days now before they 
cross. 

With love and best wishes, and hoping all 
who are dear to us will some day have as grand 
and pleasant a trip as we are just finishing. 



Cunard dock. 
Friday, Dec. 19, 10 a.m. 

While waiting for the baggage to be pulled 
off and placed under its proper initial for in- 
spection, I am suffering terribly with cold feet, 
and we are eagerly waiting an officer at M to 
bond our luggage to Toronto. Mr. Mick, a 
buyer for Flett, Lowndes, has just said good- 
bye. Met Mrs. Reynolds again, and she tells 
me she was very ill all the way and never felt 
so badly before. 

Dollie's wire of "welcome" was gratefully 
received, and we both appreciated it so much. 
201 



If there is a section left we will take it 
through to-night. My feet are too cold for New 
York. Made the passage in 4 days, 18 hours 
and 5 minutes. 

Heaps of love until we see you all. 

Sincerely, 

Lilian and Tom. 



202 



PR McCarron f Lilian 
9313* Letters to my sister 
.A136 of our experiences on 
our first trip to 
Europe 1913.